Engine fitting Q

[Lakeland997]

I’ve found you can fit any exhaust manifold after you drop the engine in.
As long as you do it before you connect any engine mounts. You can shuffle the engine around.
That said, the original type Cooper manifold is a challenge because it’s one piece.

[timmy201]

Good picture to have for reference. So your engine was basically fully dressed minus the distributor. Did you have the exhaust header stuck in against the firewall before lowering the engine in place?

Mine just dropped in - the combination of free flow manifold and 850 diff housing helped in this instance. The carb went on after the engine was in

[dklawson]

My earlier comments about tying the exhaust up and back against the firewall were to address the remote shift diff housing and original Cooper-S pressed exhaust collector. It never occurred to me to hover the engine over the subframe and maneuver the collector into position. I defer to those who earlier in this thread said they were able to slip the collector in after the engine was in the bay.

[Gary Schulz]

My earlier comments about tying the exhaust up and back against the firewall were to address the remote shift diff housing and original Cooper-S pressed exhaust collector. It never occurred to me to hover the engine over the subframe and maneuver the collector into position. I defer to those who earlier in this thread said they were able to slip the collector in after the engine was in the bay.

Seems to me the lowest risk using the original header, since it has a built-in collector of sorts, is to insert it first and just tape it to the firewall much as you suggest.

Seems like I would scratch things up trying to insert it after the engine is in place...

[agricola]

I use this for engine lifting made from scrap

[rogerotto66s]

Just finished testing the “new” brake system with help of local car club (engine not in car).
Next step is to install the engine.
Can I “wiggle” the engine around the brake servo (if servo brackets removed) or do I need to evacuate the brake fluid and remove the servo and servo brackets.

[TECH396]

Just reading through this thread. It may have already been mentioned, but worthy of saying anyways. IF you choose to fit the Radiator and hoses prior to install, do yourself a favor and make sure all the hose clamps are in a position that can be easily accessed once the lump is installed in the engine bay. IE, lower rad hose clamp..Bypass hose clamps.......You'll thank me later.

[rogerotto66s]

Paul, I will thank you now. I just checked by clamps and did need to reposition one.
What are your thoughts re: my question and leaving the brake servo in place?

[floormanager]

One thing that caught me out removing and installing a S engine was the tappet cover oil separator canister catching on the passenger hydro bulkhead bracket. I had the Sykes Pickavant correct lifting bracket but the only way I could get the engine out and back in was by removing the tappet cover. Not a big issue but just caught we out. I took the engine out with the rad on but was not brave enough to try and refit the engine and refurbished radiator in one go, so the rad went in after the engine.

[Allen Brzeczek]

For me I have always dropped the engine in without any ancillaries but with manifold held up in place at the back if the engine bay. However, with the early S remote gear change housing the engine needs to be inclined with the gearbox forward to allow clearance, it helps if the engine is suspended to allow it the be manipulated and jiggled into position, the water pump/radiator is a bit of a challenge but becomes easier with hindsight

Engine mounts with captive nuts sound like a good idea but for me turned out to be a nightmare. My hands must be bigger and not as flexible as I was but continue to exercise patience with the originals.

[iain1967s]

The original S / freeflow exhaust manifold has the same overall ’stick out’ as the remote diff flange, so can be lowered into place already assembled to the head of you have the Sykes-Pickavant tilt bracket.

[rogerotto66s]

The original S / freeflow exhaust manifold has the same overall ’stick out’ as the remote diff flange, so can be lowered into place already assembled to the head of you have the Sykes-Pickavant tilt bracket.

Can this be done with brake servo in place?

[TECH396]

Paul, I will thank you now. I just checked by clamps and did need to reposition one.
What are your thoughts re: my question and leaving the brake servo in place?

Personally, I would remove the servo. I prefer to not "fight" any more than necessary. It's not that difficult to bleed the system, and that's the only thing you would benefit from, if it were left in place.
Good luck.

[iain1967s]

Can this be done with brake servo in place?

With the radiator fitted on a Mk1 there isn't enough sideways swing on the engine for the clutch throw-out to clear with the servo still in place.

Without the radiator, or on a car without the Mk1 inner wing radiator cowl, you may be able to do it. But then it's more hassle to fit the radiator later, than it is to just remove the servo in the first place.

If you're doing frequent engine changes, maybe mount the servo on flex hoses so it can be lifted out of the way without having to break the hard lines ?

[rogerotto66s]

Thanks for the reply’s and suggestions.
I will drain the brake fluid, install the engine and then do the brakes again.
It will be good practice!
I may also look into the tilt bracket.

[Andrew1967]

The original S / freeflow exhaust manifold has the same overall ’stick out’ as the remote diff flange, so can be lowered into place already assembled to the head of you have the Sykes-Pickavant tilt bracket.

Wished I’d known that Iain, as fitting the manifold afterwards was not the easiest thing I’ve done.

Live and learn as they say

[timmy201]

I found fitting the maniflow freeflow on the magic wand gearbox was a revelation! It literally just slipped into place with no bad words required

[1071 S]

And if you're too cheap to buy any of the fancy lifting brackets pictured (or lack the tools to fabricate your own) its quite easy to make suitable lifting brackets using a pair of old spark plugs.

Break off the insulator/ceramic part off the plug. Punch out the centre bit that's left. Insert a suitable bolt up through the business end of the plug.

Use bench grinder to round off the head of the bolt so it has a similar diameter to the base of the plug. Using a couple of large flat washers and suitable nut to connect each plug to the suitable length of chain .... and voila (as the Froggies say) a lift bracket that will allow the correct angle of the dangle to drop the engine (remote shift type) into the car (with your bracket attached to plug holes 1 and 4).

I also use the Doug L methodology of hanging the manifold (I use string attached to the wiper fittings) against the firewall. I found that even with the subframe out of the car you cannot inveigle the outer piece of a Maniflow LCB between the engine and the subframe.

Spider's patented engine mount body insertion tool also works a treat. Your local charity/thrift shop will happily sell you a ready supply.

And while we're there.... should you choose not to install the radiator etc before dropping the engine in place (or if you need to remove the rad at some later date with the engine installed) the Mk I lower shroud can be modded by removing the back rear portion to make radiator removal and installation virtually pain free (in that the rad and shred can be removed without touching the fan).

Cheers, Ian

[johnv]

Ian, have you got a pic of your modified rad shroud? Sounds like a great idea

[agricola]

BMW wheel studs are m14 x 1.25 spark plug thread size so not only do they make lifting brackets but piston stops for TDC
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/324259735789 ... SwKfVfNFCi