mk1-forum.net

I have a 24T B one going spare...….
Looks to be in decent shape.....

What are they worth....

Or, maybe I should have said, how badly do you need it.....

abri wrote:That's a bummer...I hope you're successful in your search soon.

Are any of the cone synchro gears you have usable? I have a 104 gearbox that needs some gears.

What cone gears are you after Abri ?

bwaminispeed - PM sent, thanks

abri - I had 3 old cone gearboxes given to me. Gave one away last month, stripped one for misc hardware for my build, have one remaining. No idea on the history but I can take photos if there are particular gears/parts you need. No charge other than shipping but note that I am in USA. Follow ups here please: viewtopic.php?f=7&t=24065

Bombs away...….

6-10 days usual shipping time from me to most states......

Finally got all the new and NOS gears assembled for the mainshaft.

During assembly the only part I didn't have to hand is the 22G89 'pill' plunger for the 1/2 synchro hub.

I have one on order, so will fit it before final assembly into the box. Also need to gap the baulk rings, as I have a mix of new sintered, NOS and good-used steel 'W' rings.

I'm curious though what is the purpose of that 22G89 plunger. Is it just to stop the outer 1st gear ring from slipping too far off the end of the hub splines when selecting 2nd gear?

Interestingly the cone 3-synchro box that I stripped for misc hardware didn't have that plunger (nor a hole for it in the hub); but that earlier design seems quite different anyway as it used 6 balls and springs.

In what may be the slowest gearbox build on record, I finally got around to start assembling all the new/NOS parts into the 333 casing today.

Didn’t use the ‘W’ forged baulk rings in the end, as new sintered type I got from Guess-works had a better gap.

I know I have read it some place but will ask here. The letter Q before 333 tells something just cant recall what. Steve (CTR)

CooperTune wrote:I know I have read it some place but will ask here. The letter Q before 333 tells something just cant recall what. Steve (CTR)

It's just the lineage of the casting I think. Q = third version, 1966 onward with Hardy Spicer diff outputs. Dermott had a brief summary here: viewtopic.php?f=5&t=24621&p=210556

Might seem like a trivial question, but what’s the best way to test the gear selection with the box still on the workbench?

I’ve got no diff fitted yet, but the 3 synchro ‘cup’ part of the linkage is attached to the splines and the gate, so I can twist and push/pull the selector.

But that linkage only about 4 inches long, so I can’t really get enough leverage with just my wrist to overcome the detents, let alone move the forks on non-rotating gears.

What kind of force is appropriate - I don’t want to wrench things too aggressively and break something in my shiny new gearbox...

Firstly, the ‘ball’ part of the linkage should be attached to the top of the shift rod that emerges from the gearbox.
That said, I have put a deep socket and extension bar over the ball to test operation.
You’ve a lot of leverage with the gear lever so I don’t think you need to worry too much about damage.

Thanks. That gave me the confidence to get a bit more aggressive with it

Socket on an extension slipped over the ball did the trick. All gears engaging and disengaging properly.

I locked the layshaft to 1st and 4th, then torqued up the input and output nuts to 150 lbft with the “big wrench”, and everything seems to be working ok - no binding Baulk rings etc.

Curiously, the donor cone gearbox seems to have shorter studs for the end cover than the B type, so I’ll have to grab some longer studs or UNC bolts, but that’s no big deal.

Shorter studs - I'd guess that your donor gearbox was an 850 magic wand-type as these had an engine mounting bracket (22A30) which mounted directly to the speedo housing so the studs only had to go through the steel sheet of this mounting. Cooper & S gearboxes used a bracket (12A361) which was attached via a square aluminium adaptor block (12A360) and the studs had to be longer to pass through this adaptor.

Yes, that’s exactly it Nick. Simple enough to fix with some longer bolts or studs.

Well this ended up as a bit of a build thread, so figured I might as well post photos of the finished assembly.

Missing lock tabs for the main diff casing studs, but apart from that and fitting/shimming the transfer gear housing I’m pretty much done.

It was certainly a challenge to build a 333 box from scratch using all NOS gears, and wouldn’t have been possible without the members of this excellent forum, especially the helpful photos provided by Ricardo.

Now I just need to pull the engine, get it rebored +30 and fit it all back together

Lovely thing! Well done.
I'm sure you're onto this but I can't see a seal on the gearchange shaft going into the box and the knuckle on the end of that shaft is upside down (bolt goes downwards).

Andy

Thanks Andy.

There is actually a new seal there, but it’s one of the later hybrid metal outer / rubber inner bush type from a rod change ‘anti leak kit’ that I had spare.

I just flipped the linkage knuckle over, thanks for spotting that.