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NicholasUpton wrote:Be carful with the clean strip pads on the angle grinder, as they can act like a shrinking disc and cause panel distortion, that ends up being more work. We normally use holdtight 102 and water to scrub by hand after using the stripper, this will neutralize and protect the metal while you are doing body work.

Otherwise you are looking good. Keep the progress coming.

Very good tip! I keep the pad moving and don't sit it in any one spot for any length of time. So far, I have done all 4 doors and they are still nice and straight!

I am not sure what holdtight 102 is though...
I have been rinsing with lacquer thinners to remove the residue. I am loathe to put water near bare metal.

Last night's progress was around the back, there was some damage to the rear lip, loadspace support, and valance. I cut the damaged area out and started fitting the repair panels. I think I will replace the valance as well.

Here is the undamaged side prior to cutting, but with the loadspace support removed



And the damaged side, note all of the filler to re-form the step and all of the brazing

I realized that the only way to do this right would be to remove the rear valance and corners, then cut everything back to good metal.
The panel where the internal tank had been installed had been pounded to allow the tank to fit, so that was cut out as well.
A panel was made to replace it.







Old and new

Tacked in


Repair for right side inner corner

Fitted up with new rear step


New rear valance and corners offered up


Also trial fit of rear loadspace support

Over the weekend I had a request to paint a set of tanks for a Mk1 Cooper S

I decided that if I was mixing up a batch of paint and moving things around the shop, I would do some other things as well.

I grabbed everything that was in my "already been blasted" box next to the sandblaster, as well as a couple Mk1 heater assemblys I have been working on. One for the Countryman and one eventually for the Van

Well, work has slowed to a crawl, or more accurately, a hobble... We had a death in the family, which is always a hard time, and then 2 weeks ago I broke my kneecap and buggered my leg in a cyclocross crash...
Not all has been lost, I have taken this time to do some cataloging and inventory and ordering parts I thought I had.
I have been able to weight-bear as of this weekend, so have been standing in front of the sandblasting cabinet. Have gotten loads cleaned up

I realized I forgot to post a photo!


I didn't realize I had 5 sets of external hinges, so pretty excited about that. I have ordered hinge pin kits and the bushing tool. So the Traveller, the Cooper, and the Van will have fresh hinges.

How many door hinges do you need on this car ?

woodypup59 wrote:How many door hinges do you need on this car ?

It's the very rare Countryman Limousine, seats 12...

So, in my effort to find things to do while my knee heals up. I set about testing and inventory-ing my starters. I figure I will see if I have the correct date codes for the cars I have here, I need a 62 for the 850, a 63 for the 997, a 65 for the Countryman and a 68 for the van.

So far I have found
11-54 (Morris Minor?)
05-63 (997 Cooper)
12-64
12-64
09-65 (Countryman)
11-65
03-66 (Possibly spoken for)
09-68 (Van)
01-69
02-69
04-69
03-70
09-73
04-75
28-75
44-78

So I have come up short for a 62 and a 63, but I suppose it isn't super important.

So I set about taking one apart in preparation for restoring
In the past, I have always just found suitable replacements when a starter goes bad, so I have never bothered rebuilding them. So it will be a learning experience.

Come with me on this journey of wonder, won't you?



So first off is bendix removal, this was all new to me so I made it up as I went along

You will need to be able to squish the spring in order to remove the c clip that keeps the retainer



I am sure there is an easy way to do this, but I settled on Vise-grips, they do the job, but, be aware they do come flying of at light speed every so often



The retainer will be stuck, so I used a spark plug socket and a hammer to gently tap it, exposing the c-clip





Which I then pried off with a small screwdriver, keep your fingers clear in case the vise grips let go...





Then the entire bendix should come away from the shaft





Next, remove the 2 long bolts



The armature will pull out, be careful not to damage the windings



Once it was all apart, I cleaned up the shafts and splines on the wire wheel, the next stop is the auto electrics place to test the armature(s), I plan on taking a bunch in (all the Mk1's) and getting them checked.

You are a braver man than me.

I use an old screw type valve spring compressor.....

I was given a bendix spring removal tool many years ago,have still to use it.

java gt wrote:I was given a bendix spring removal tool many years ago,have still to use it.

I do have about 12 more starters here...
Although the Vise-grip method seems to be working fine, but I am sure once I become complacent it will bite me...

Make sure there is no bearing play on the shaft.

I have a lovely reconditioned starter which turns freely without load but with some play in the shaft.
When it is installed and engaged to the fly wheel, the shaft is pushed to one side within the housing. Thus the starter can't turn freely anymore and doesn't has enough power to start the engine. Due to the fault symptoms I was searching on the wrong palce for a long time. The system behaves like a flat batterie but eventually it was the reconditioned starter.

so long
the Doc

Swindrum , if you would like a spring compressing tool let me know and I would be happy to send you one ! FOC.

Would need your address of course .

Craig

Here's the starter tool

Just made from a couple of 1" Flat washers and a couple of 1/4 NF nuts.

Craig

Craig wrote:Here's the starter tool

Just made from a couple of 1" Flat washers and a couple of 1/4 NF nuts.

Craig

Well, that is very clever! I got 5 armatures tested over the weekend and they all tested good!
Blasted the cases and will hopefully get some paint on them this week.

Bought a pint of medium bronze green the other day and set about paining up a few bits, including the starter bodies. I realise that the factory assembled the entire drivetrain assembly and painted it all at once, but I like how these starters look when painted and polished as individual parts...

That's porn.............................

Gareth Brandt wrote:That's porn.............................

Agree

Awe shucks, thanks...

I painted a couple Dynamo cases and a few other engine bits as well as a 998 Cooper engine. Everything looks pretty nice. Today I was able to assemble one of the Dynamos and finish dis-assembling the rear trailing arms. All the bits went into the blaster and will be painted in the next few days. Once this round of stuff is painted, I will be back to grinding and welding and making dust.

My knee has been healing up nicely, so I am hoping to return to the body work this week . I want to get the welding sorted before Christmas

Dynamo before



Dynamo after



998 Cooper Engine