mk1-forum.net

It will definitely all go together, HOWEVER, the gearbox case and differential cover are line bored so there can be small differences in the position of the split relative to the center of the hole.

This can mean you are either not clamping the outer race of the bearing (which will cause it to spin) or over clamping the race which will cause it to overheat and fail. You would need to check the diameters very carefully to be sure because they will all bolt together.

Checking on internet I found out my current remote and gear lever with a kink in the bottom (for a MOKE? as appeared in a blog).
But what else do I need to fix it? For example as appeared in somerfordmini catalog:
- Part Number: 22A419 GAITER-GEAR LEVER TO CASE-DIRECT CHANGE
- Part No: 14A6860 GAITER-GEAR LEVER THROUGH FLOOR-DIRECT CHANGE
- Part Number: 14A6861 RETAINING PLATE-MAGIC WAND GAITER TO FLOOR
- Gasket, cover and washer.
Advices are very welcome!

timmy201 wrote:And on a related note, I have a 22G1128 4 sync gearbox here for my eventual engine build. I have an 850 "magic wand" diff housing which fits perfectly on the back of the gearbox. Best of both worlds IMO


I did buy a "pudding stirrer" housing for it (4 sync direct shift). But I didn't have all the pieces, and I figured the 850 shift should line up with the hole in the floor of my 850.

I might line them all up at home and take some photos for reference.

My car has a 22g846 box. Four sync with the early magic wand change. Not sure if it's. Factory box or if it's Had the diff cap from the original box stuck on it.

I'm toying with the idea of converting it to run a+ gears and making use of the 1275 GT close ratio set I can lay my hands on. Should go nice with a tall FD and the cooperised 1098.

fberistain wrote:Checking on internet I found out my current remote and gear lever with a kink in the bottom (for a MOKE? as appeared in a blog).
But what else do I need to fix it? For example as appeared in somerfordmini catalog:
- Part Number: 22A419 GAITER-GEAR LEVER TO CASE-DIRECT CHANGE
- Part No: 14A6860 GAITER-GEAR LEVER THROUGH FLOOR-DIRECT CHANGE
- Part Number: 14A6861 RETAINING PLATE-MAGIC WAND GAITER TO FLOOR
- Gasket, cover and washer.
Advices are very welcome!

I think that shifter was from a 3 synchro Gearbox that was in a Moke, but it looks a bit mangled! Nothing that can't be re-set though!

The 3 Synchro shifters have the slot on the side and the 4 Synchro ones were in the Top.

Spider wrote:

mab01uk wrote: Are all (Mk2 Mini onwards) 4 syncro gearboxes with a magic wand gearlever (van or saloon) fitted with the remote style rear diff housing and a conversion plate?

As far as I know, yes. Since my post, I've also checked acroos many parts books and yesrs. Rather than thinking of it as a remote Diff Cap, think of them as a 'Universal Diff Cap'

Indeed.....the pressed metal plate that looks like an easter egg mould, the straight stick and pivot pad....all in place of the remote housing.

The remote gearbox fitted with a magic wand gear stick is known as a 'direct change' gearbox. In Australia they were used extensively in Mokes.

They're quite a positive change when they are unworn, but once they get sloppy they can become a bit challenging.

Tim

Tim wrote:
They're quite a positive change when they are unworn, but once they get sloppy they can become a bit challenging.

Tim

Bhahaaha,,,,, Tim, I enjoy your dry humour,,,,,,,

When they were new, this was about as good as it got (photo cutesy of Dean)

My MK1 Moke had a "Direct Change" box in it, I can confirm that the change was somewhat "Challenging".

M

mini63 wrote:

Spider wrote:

mab01uk wrote: Are all (Mk2 Mini onwards) 4 syncro gearboxes with a magic wand gearlever (van or saloon) fitted with the remote style rear diff housing and a conversion plate?

As far as I know, yes. Since my post, I've also checked acroos many parts books and yesrs. Rather than thinking of it as a remote Diff Cap, think of them as a 'Universal Diff Cap'

Indeed.....the pressed metal plate that looks like an easter egg mould, the straight stick and pivot pad....all in place of the remote housing.

From a cost reduction production engineering point of view it would seem to be the only reason for BMC/BL to justify the design of an alternative magic wand gearchange in 1968, ie. to supersede the old style direct change with a 'universal' solution with more parts common with the existing remote change.

It was a good solution in the Moke, because there really isn't room to fit the remote extension as well as somewhere for the driver to sit. They didn't need to change the floor pressing, the stick just came through the same hole as the magic wand, albeit with some fairly significant bends in it.

When they first went to the rod change box the Moke got little tiny shortened rods that still fitted through the same hole.

Tim

Jeez, just read through this thread again and I'm just as confused as when I started it, if not more...

I've now got a 22G1128 4 sync box (cheers Andrew) also I have the easter egg mould cover plate, what am I missing to convert the back of the 1128 remote to magic wand, is this list correct for this application?

from Mab's post;

2A3467 Bush
2A3390 Spring
22A1832 Seat / Locating foot
88G553 Selector shaft
22A1717 Cover _ (got this already)
22A1382 Gearlever 1968-75 (Later type wand with slot at the top of ball)

Thanks

There is a parts list and image here:
http://www.somerfordmini.co.uk/eshop/in ... age&id=151

Have inadvertently blundered into this subject in a question posed in another thread: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=19121

If you get stuck I can help you with the 22A1832 Seat, and 22A1382 Gearlever, but you still won't have the 'smoking pipe' type selector shaft (88G553) so it may pay to wait until someone can offer everything.

Roger

dodge44 wrote:Have inadvertently blundered into this subject in a question posed in another thread: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=19121

If you get stuck I can help you with the 22A1832 Seat, and 22A1382 Gearlever, but you still won't have the 'smoking pipe' type selector shaft (88G553) so it may pay to wait until someone can offer everything.

Roger

That's a good offer cheers, anyone else smoke a pipe?

I see there is a 4-synchro pudding stirring box / engine currently on Ebay 4/9/17 :

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/-original-aus ... 2468548649

dodge44 wrote:Have inadvertently blundered into this subject in a question posed in another thread: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=19121

If you get stuck I can help you with the 22A1832 Seat, and 22A1382 Gearlever, but you still won't have the 'smoking pipe' type selector shaft (88G553) so it may pay to wait until someone can offer everything.

Roger

Only just seen this, sorry. Yes I'd be interested if you still have them?

In the image below, does no.35,36 and 37 replace no.39 on the shaft or if not, how does it go together, can't get me head round it.

Also, I didn't realise there were two lengths of the "smoking pipe" no.33 and 34, hope I've got the right one...

docka wrote:In the image below, does no.35,36 and 37 replace no.39 on the shaft or if not, how does it go together, can't get me head round it.

Also, I didn't realise there were two lengths of the "smoking pipe" no.33 and 34, hope I've got the right one...

Yes, you use the same pin but install part No39 . See picture here:

Thanks, figured it must be like that but was unsure. So does the ball on the end of the magic wand go into the hole on part 35 or into the smoking pipe? Do you have any photos with the gear lever installed too?

The ball on the end of the shifter goes into the smoking pipe. The larger pivot ball on the shifter is between part 35 and the bottom plate