mk1-forum.net

Vegard,

Please contact me direct re this.

mk1 wrote:Vegard,

How much stripping would 10kg do?

that's the wrong question for verg


ask him 'how much stripping would £80 get me'


he can answer that.....................

We use this Strip all at work to clean some very expensive super duplex bolts for offshore aplications who are full of Loctite 272. It works good in the ultrasonic washer also

I agree with Mark, brick acid anytime, fast acting, easy to obtain & if you get fed up cleaning engine parts, it does a magnificent job of descaling the kettle!

rich@minispares.com wrote:

mk1 wrote:Vegard,

How much stripping would 10kg do?

that's the wrong question for verg


ask him 'how much stripping would £80 get me'


he can answer that.....................

What?

Beware

These acid products can rot out the brass oil way plugs.

So check carefully after the cleaning - or best replace them anyway.

Don't ask me how I know - but I was lucky.

In the shed wrote:That is a very good point and one which I didn't think about. It would indeed form the sodium salt, which would block up the molecule!

I think the EDTA chelating molecule has a preference for the Calcium and Magnesium in the hardness salts that have scaled up the block. They would dissociate from the Na and preferentially take the Ca and or Mg. The resultant sodium salt, possibly Cl or So4 would be more soluble and remain in solution till flushed / rinsed. A bit like an Ion exchange resin!

Brick acid (Hydrochloric or Muriatic) is good and cheap, but introduces extra chlorides (like salt NaCl) and flash rusts immediately, unless as Mark has suggested you neutralise / passivate the surface with an alkali.

Cheers!

would molasses or vinegar damage valve guides?

this is my last post on this forum. this is not the first time I,ve been ignored, but it,s certainly the last.

Sorry to see you go "madaboutcherry" no point taking it as a personal insult when your posts aren't answered though. If I did the same the forum would have closed down years ago.

Sometimes people just don't know the answer to your question, in this case I certainly don't.

If you really do want to leave the forum, drop me a line & I can delete your membership.

Happy Mini-ing.

Mark F

madaboutacherry.

I would have replied to your post, however I only pass through occasionally. My answer would be Vinegar (strong) will react with brass. You get around this by greasing the surfaces you don't want "etched".

Use petrol to take the worst crap off everything (note safety). Then use cellulose thinners to take the varnish and hydrocarbon residues off everything. Then when you are at this point, orthophosphoric acid (Kurust, etc) to convert the rust into stuff. Then soapy water to wash everything with. Then dry ready for paint.

I wouldn't use vinegar or molasses.

If your stripping you head

why not just do the valve guides anyways? I'm doing mine. Yes its a hard and quite expensive job but its better than having the head off down the line doing it all again.

Thats my 2p worth

Chalkie wrote:If your stripping you head

why not just do the valve guides anyways? I'm doing mine. Yes its a hard and quite expensive job but its better than having the head off down the line doing it all again.

Thats my 2p worth

but if the guides are within tolerance, whats the point in swopping them for no reason and having to fork out to get the seats recut.

your just making work and spending money for no reason..................

My experience is that A-series valve seats are worn after 457miles. I don't always change the guides, but if the head is off, I ALWAYS check the valve seal, and in 80% of the occasions they need recutting.