the body of your car is an early Cox style, with a later style chassis. Which type of later chassis can be deduced, if we see a picture of the chassis in the gear-lever area inside the car. With this picture we can determine weather or not it’s a Heerey chassis or a later one. Either way it’ll be a nice car once it’s done
What was the reason the roof had almost been cut off?
Last edited by turbocox on Mon Dec 03, 2018 5:28 pm, edited 1 time in total.
mk1 wrote:Regarding prices of race engines, yes, lots of people are spending 20 grand plus, but I know a few competitive cars / drivers who are spending A LOT LESS!
I’ve spoken to a few well known builders this year and found them not particularly as helpful as they once were. I’ve found if your pockets are deep enough tho, they are more than welcoming to help you spend it.
Sorry for the moan, it just seems the scene has changed from enthusiasts to investors, and it affects not just the purchase of prices of our favourite little car but also all the fun bits like the engine upgrades.
Sorry for the moan, it just seems the scene has changed from enthusiasts to investors, and it affects not just the purchase of prices of our favourite little car but also all the fun bits like the engine upgrades.
Hourly rates now are such that you will never get a cheap engine build.
The skills that are required to build a good engine are few and far between these days
so you have to pay top dollar. I am doing most of the work myself, otherwise I simply could not afford it.
gpmini - the early Cox screens are a different size to the later GTMs. My screen measures 61cm from the centre top to the centre of the bottom. It might be worth contacting Hambly Sports Cars to see if he has decided to reproduce the early screen, or if you can modify your body to take a later screen.
The guys that own the red Cars and Car Conversions Triple C COX GTM have had a plastic screen made, sorry I can't remember the material, and it performed really well on a rally across Spain earlier this year, no scratches even after prolonged rain/mud/dust.
The 'GTM kit cars' group on facebook is worth joining.
I contacted Derek the other day about screens as mine is cracked, he is getting a batch of later screens done at the moment.
I would think it best to modify the aperture to take a later screen, but I'm unsure of how big the difference is.
S
the body of your car is an early Cox style, with a later style chassis. Which type of later chassis can be deduced, if we see a picture of the chassis in the gear-lever area inside the car. With this picture we can determine weather or not it’s a Heerey chassis or a later one. Either way it’ll be a nice car once it’s done
What was the reason the roof had almost been cut off?
Hi Turbocox please see interior pics below. The floors and tub looks pretty straight and solid to me. I have no idea why the lhs A pillar was snapped. It apparently has been like that through two previous owners going back 15 years at least. Probably not enough care taken during moving it around.
On the matter of the front screen I will get dimensions to confirm the size. How difficult is it to have one made? As the car is in South Africa, the cost of shipping one from the UK may make it easier to have one made locally. I believe that I will need to confirm the dimensions and curvature. They then make a mould and make a laminate screen from that. I also need a Marcos front screen, so could have both done at the same time.
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GTM71 wrote:Looks like an early Heerey still, you have the later dash and tunnel.
Here is a good resource for GTM reference material http://www.dmross.plus.com/
Brilliant, thank you! Can't wait to see the next update on the subject of this thread
gpmini wrote:
Hi Turbocox please see interior pics below. The floors and tub looks pretty straight and solid to me. I have no idea why the lhs A pillar was snapped. It apparently has been like that through two previous owners going back 15 years at least. Probably not enough care taken during moving it around.
It’s a Heerey gtm.
So the picture showing the tunnel is the determining shot, as the Heerey chassis has a step down in height from the dash area. This is where the tunnel is tied into the drop down bracing under the front end of the car. The Herrey chassis all have this.
The later Gtm engineering Coupe chassis have the tunnel the same height all the way from the front to the back, and it doesn’t have a drop down section under the front.
The earlier Cox chassis are like Andyb’s the thread build we are on.
The screen,..... the early Cox cars have a asymmetric top edge, depending on how original you want your car to be will determine if want to fit one. Andy’s Cox history is known all the way back to the first builder. The latter screen will fit with a bit of filling and file-ing of the body.
These windscreens are now in stock at my suppliers in Tamworth.
They are not heated but are laminated, top tinted and @E' marked.
They are priced at £150-00 including the VAT.
Collection from the suppliers is possible, or they can pack and deliver, fully insured for about £45.
They do not want to keep the stock for very long so I will be collecting the balance soon and then they will only be available from my workshop.
Hi Andy
Yes I'd seen that on the forum, a good price, I asked him to reserve one for me.
AndyB72 wrote:Just seen this message on the GTM Forum...
Hi Simon, and others,
These windscreens are now in stock at my suppliers in Tamworth.
They are not heated but are laminated, top tinted and @E' marked.
They are priced at £150-00 including the VAT.
Collection from the suppliers is possible, or they can pack and deliver, fully insured for about £45.
They do not want to keep the stock for very long so I will be collecting the balance soon and then they will only be available from my workshop.
I haven't posted an updated in ages so thought I'd best take some quick snaps over the weekend. Rad is in and we just need to finish the pipe work to the engine. Waiting on some fuel hose to plumb in the tank/pump then thats done. Exhaust mounted and pipes made/welded ready, just need to sort the tailpipe once the body is back on. Dash recovered and gauges connected. Need to make sure the dizzy is set right before dropping the engine back in, rebuild the carbs then should be ready to turn the key!
The previous owner had 'adjusted' the chassis with a big hammer. We straightened it out when we worked on the tub not realising it was an important modification until we came to fit the engine, same goes for the hole for the starter motor.
Do you think its just a case of bending the arm closer to the slave cylinder?