mk1-forum.net

You've started something here David, I've got a couple that needs similar attention.

Seems a complicated repair. The studs are spot welded to the hinges in three positions, if you put a 5/8" socket underneath the head to support it and one mighty blow with a hammer on the threaded end normally removes them. Make up some new studs an a lathe and braze them in.

Bob,

I quite agree, but I don’t have a lathe or facilities to braze. Given my limited resources this works for me and may be a way to preserve the appearance for those in a similar situation. If you are offering these studs then that would be welcome and silver soldering would perhaps be an alternative to get the job done.

All ears!

D

I can braze them in but have no lathe access, so if you can supply some studs Bob, I'd be interested in a set

I once got some of those studs from MMachine.

Wing welding time, well one of them.
I tried something different this time. I loaded the wing to scuttle join with an excess of Tiger seal before fitting. It all squidged out nicely and cleaned up before starting on the spot welds.

I decided it would be a good idea to make sure I had a bonnet I could use, rather than rely on fixing the damaged original. The reference bonnet I have been using has rust in the common areas.
I know the bracket beneath is in a bad state but thought getting the skin sound first might be the better way to go.

Continued.

Now you can see the rot beneath
It looks fine from the outside. I’m scratching my head about how to tackle the horrors beneath.
D

Some amazing skills, tips and problem solving on this thread, really enjoying it.

Thanks Pete. The other wing is on, but I think I may have the shut lines too tight to be authentic BMC. None the less, I’m well please with how it’s worked out.
The M Machine front panel need a bit of fettling at the wheel arch end of things, but I would say they have improved.

OK, down to the nitty gritty. Bonnet corner brackets. Here is the problem rust worm has set.
First I stabilised the cross member in case it all went pear shaped, not elegant I know but it does the job.
Continued.

Then it was a matter of taking it to bits.

Not pretty. It was a matter of what to save and what to ditch. Making a record first.
.

Although the centre section was not fantastic, it was usable. Much easier to fabricate the outer section and marry the two.

A functional result that will look better once tidied up with some filler or lead.


I just hope the other side doesn’t need the same attention.

D

I am constantly amazed by your attention to detail.

Brilliant.

All is not always as you might hope. My nicely fitting bonnet didn’t fit so nicely after fixing the bracket.
The mended corner had moved down by about 2mm. Inevitable I suppose when you are filling multiple plug welds close to each other. The shrinkage simply pulled the corner down.

The options were to either build it up with filler or try to get it back to shape some how. My initial try was to make an anvil to get into the flange and use a blunted cold chisel to stretch the metal. This has worked for me nicely when used on single thicknesses of steel but I was not sure whether it might work on the doubled flange.
But it didn’t work. All I did was shrink the flange further by putting a wavy edge on it.

So applying the adage, “you can’t mend it if you don’t bend it” that’s what was tried next. Flat sheet of ply a block of wood and a big G cramp.
Pressing on the diagonally opposite corner until it would go no further and amazingly it worked.

Continued.

One corner sorted the opposite side to investigate. Some surface bubbles were concerning and there were a few deep dents.
Now that the paint was gone it was clear the bubbling was owing to the dents breaking the paint seal. Deep dents that had raised some extended high areas. Access to the back of the panel was impossible because of the cross-brace and corner bracket. Surface glancing blows across the high areas improved matters but the profound dents remained.
A crude tool and a couple of small holes got the job done.
Maybe Heritage bonnets aren’t so bad after all?

D

I think i may have a mk2 bonnet for you if you are interested? Would send it for the postage cost...

Fanfaniracing wrote:I think i may have a mk2 bonnet for you if you are interested? Would send it for the postage cost...

A very kind offer. PM sent.

All the panels except the rear valance are part of the shell again. Getting all the underseal off the underside was the next chore, hoping not to find any unexpected horrors. Blow lamp and scraper the tools of choice and what they revealed was a pleasant find.
Just a couple of pin holes but most of the floor still retained its factory primer.
With a bit of luck I might get this primed today.

D

A little more scraping and some action with a clean and strip disc, then paint.
All it’s battle scares now show up but it is solid and original. Some one in the past has removed all the tags for the fuel lines etc. The lines are going inside the car so it’s not a problem.

Here’s a trick I’ve tried to seal up the spot welded sill seam.
Well thinned epoxy primer to run from front to back and ouse out where it can.
I’m beginning to feel I’m winning.

D

Well I thought I was winning until it came time to strip the boot and rear seat area of old paint and crud. I had decided not to have this one media blasted to avoid the perpetual grit. May be it was a bad idea. It has taken days to get back to bare metal. New panels are so much easier!
With the primer on I can move on and do more of the same. Ain’t life wonderful?

D

Looking great!

Lots & lots of elbow grease, but I'm sure it's worth it.

Ah, that’s better. It’s amazing what a spot of primer can do to make things feel like progress.
And the blasted subframes get a lick of paint too.
I know it all seems a bit back to front but I dare not leave metal bare too long here. Salt spray from the North Sea too near at hand always threatens.

D