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Re: Mk2 Cooper
Posted: Sat Apr 15, 2017 8:05 am
by Nick W
Bloody hell! I didn't think it would be that good, it looks perfect
I think the solid paint is perfect for painting minis, base coat and laquer has more uv protection ,but that's hardly relevant for older cars.
Re: Mk2 Cooper
Posted: Sat Apr 15, 2017 8:44 am
by Callum
Daz1968 wrote:Looks superb, did you use solid 2k or clear over base as I am still undecided what to paint mine with
Thanks Daz, yeah solid 2k, thought there would be less chance of something going wrong compared to base coat and lacquer
Re: Mk2 Cooper
Posted: Sat Apr 15, 2017 8:46 am
by Callum
Nick W wrote:Bloody hell! I didn't think it would be that good, it looks perfect
I think the solid paint is perfect for painting minis, base coat and laquer has more uv protection ,but that's hardly relevant for older cars.
Thanks Nick, it came out a lot better than I thought too. Not a single run just a few bits of dust to sort out
Re: Mk2 Cooper
Posted: Sat Apr 15, 2017 10:24 am
by Andrew1967
That looks brilliant Callum
Apologies if I have missed it, but is this the first time you've painted a car ?
Re: Mk2 Cooper
Posted: Sat Apr 15, 2017 11:54 am
by Old English White
That looks great. Well done! I agree with Nick - I can't see any merit in using a clear coat on a classic car with a non-metallic finish. A good quality gloss paint whether it be cellulose or 2K is more than adequate and more original too.
I bet you can't wait to start putting it all back together now!
Re: Mk2 Cooper
Posted: Sat Apr 15, 2017 11:56 am
by BLT
That looks fantastic. Well done.
What sort of PPE did you use for the 2k? Because of the health risks I'm thinking cellulose is easier to do at home, but 2k seems to be everyone's favourite. Be interested in knowing how you got around this? Cheers.
Re: Mk2 Cooper
Posted: Sat Apr 15, 2017 7:48 pm
by Callum
Andrew1967 wrote:That looks brilliant Callum
Apologies if I have missed it, but is this the first time you've painted a car ?
Thanks Andrew, yeah first time painting. Its my first restoration so everything I'm doing is all new to me really.
Re: Mk2 Cooper
Posted: Sat Apr 15, 2017 7:49 pm
by Callum
Old English White wrote:That looks great. Well done! I agree with Nick - I can't see any merit in using a clear coat on a classic car with a non-metallic finish. A good quality gloss paint whether it be cellulose or 2K is more than adequate and more original too.
I bet you can't wait to start putting it all back together now!
Thanks, yeah really looking forward to to bolting it all together, im fed up of the messy jobs!
Re: Mk2 Cooper
Posted: Sat Apr 15, 2017 7:53 pm
by Callum
BLT wrote:That looks fantastic. Well done.
What sort of PPE did you use for the 2k? Because of the health risks I'm thinking cellulose is easier to do at home, but 2k seems to be everyone's favourite. Be interested in knowing how you got around this? Cheers.
Thanks, well I started with an air fed mask but for some reason it wasn't giving the gun enough air pressure so then switched to a 3m full face effort
Re: Mk2 Cooper
Posted: Sat Apr 15, 2017 8:10 pm
by Callum
Flatted the whole car today and polished a few areas by hand that I can't get in with the mop. Then just had time to run the mop over the quarter panel. Im going to have to repaint the quarter anyway as Im not happy with some of it, so it was a good place to practice with the machine polisher.
Some black dirt or paint has managed to get into the very first coat so if i carry on trying to flat it out im going to break into the primer. Frustrating but a lesson learnt, will be more thorough with the cleaning next time.
Re: Mk2 Cooper
Posted: Sun Apr 16, 2017 11:50 am
by Nick W
Hi Callum
Shame you have to recoat it....but if you do ,I would wait till after you have done the doors, to give the paint time to harden, as although its cured ,it will take a while to fully dry. Recoating before this can result in a slight shriveling of the topcoat as new paint seals the first coat from the air ,slowing its drying.
Also flatting the paint very thin before recoating can cause reactions as the solvent trys to lift the existing paint.
I would first try a flat and polish to see if you can live with it....some time perfectionism has to be compromised??
Nick
Re: Mk2 Cooper
Posted: Sun Apr 16, 2017 12:34 pm
by surfblue63
Callum wrote:
The pictures aren't great as the gazebooth was in the way
Hello Dragons, today I'd like to present the GazeeBooth, a great idea for the home car restorer. I'm looking for £100,000 for 10%....
Great paint finish by the way.
Re: Mk2 Cooper
Posted: Mon Apr 17, 2017 6:29 pm
by Callum
Nick W wrote:Hi Callum
Shame you have to recoat it....but if you do ,I would wait till after you have done the doors, to give the paint time to harden, as although its cured ,it will take a while to fully dry. Recoating before this can result in a slight shriveling of the topcoat as new paint seals the first coat from the air ,slowing its drying.
Also flatting the paint very thin before recoating can cause reactions as the solvent trys to lift the existing paint.
I would first try a flat and polish to see if you can live with it....some time perfectionism has to be compromised??
Nick
Thanks Nick, there are a couple of bits on other panels that I can live with but the one one the quarter is very obvious against the white. I will leave it a couple of weeks and recoat. Would you repaint the whole panel or do a blow in just over the affected area?
Cheers Callum
Re: Mk2 Cooper
Posted: Mon Apr 17, 2017 6:31 pm
by Callum
surfblue63 wrote:Callum wrote:
The pictures aren't great as the gazebooth was in the way
Hello Dragons, today I'd like to present the GazeeBooth, a great idea for the home car restorer. I'm looking for £100,000 for 10%....
Great paint finish by the way.
You have massively undervalued my new business venture!
Re: Mk2 Cooper
Posted: Mon Apr 17, 2017 8:40 pm
by Nick W
Callum wrote:Nick W wrote:Hi Callum
Shame you have to recoat it....but if you do ,I would wait till after you have done the doors, to give the paint time to harden, as although its cured ,it will take a while to fully dry. Recoating before this can result in a slight shriveling of the topcoat as new paint seals the first coat from the air ,slowing its drying.
Also flatting the paint very thin before recoating can cause reactions as the solvent trys to lift the existing paint.
I would first try a flat and polish to see if you can live with it....some time perfectionism has to be compromised??
Nick[/quo
Thanks Nick, there are a couple of bits on other panels that I can live with but the one one the quarter is very obvious against the white. I will leave it a couple of weeks and recoat. Would you repaint the whole panel or do a blow in just over the affected area?
Cheers Callum
I would paint the hole panel, as solid paint not that great for blending....
Re: Mk2 Cooper
Posted: Thu May 11, 2017 8:13 pm
by Callum
Small update, all the panels are now painted. Had to paint them twice it the end. I switched to a new air line as the old one was looking a right mess and thought that might be were the dirt was coming from. Worst idea I have ever had!
Started painting and about 3 coats in I noticed lots of fish eyes, think the air line had some oil or something it! There were hundreds on each panel so stopped painting and buggered off home in a strop. Left it a couple of days, sanded it all off and started againg with the old airline. Came out fine second time round so yet another learning curve!
Managed to find a nice quiet place for them where they wont get damaged.
Happy with how they came out after a quick flat and polish
Re: Mk2 Cooper
Posted: Thu May 11, 2017 8:46 pm
by Daz1968
Looking good now comes the more enjoyable bit of putting it all back together
Re: Mk2 Cooper
Posted: Fri May 12, 2017 8:32 am
by mk1
It's always nice when you have a pristine shell just waiting to have all its bits put back on. Like a rebirth
Re: Mk2 Cooper
Posted: Fri May 12, 2017 10:11 am
by mk1coopers
Looks great, what are the extra holes under the S badge on the boot for ?
Re: Mk2 Cooper
Posted: Fri May 12, 2017 11:47 am
by WMU 211G
The four holes underneath the main badge holes will be for the 'Mk II' script badge.
