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After 3 coats of engine enamel.


Was greeted with this when I opened the flywheel housing. Seems it was a quick job just to spray the engine clearly. Inspected the oil pump and it was fine.


Atleast on a better note found a 1275 crank is actually fitted to the engine and not a 1098 crank.
Cleaned threads up, fitted new oil pump gasket without gasket maker this time, checked shimming of idler gear and re-assembled. Oh and I fitted a oil seal flinger just for good measure after a double lipped oil seal.

Come on Phil, we're champing at the bit, waiting to see more of your amazing progress...............

Hi Peter

You and me both Sir, I had a change in Job, so work seriously long hours now.

The update from the spraypainter after 5 weeks is this...


Not too impressed with the progress, the main colour was mixed yesterday. So will evaluate on saturday and hopefully next week some colour will be going on the body. Fingers crossed.


Engine wise, I will have a play this weekend.

So I have been lazy to work on the engine.

I did however yesterday, sand the fuel tank down...



Just some self etch primer for now.

Guide coat on....


and

Enjoying your thread - lots to see and think about

Same here. It's my weekly mini-fix, together with surfari's red Cooper

Thanks Gents

So it has been more than 8 weeks in the making, but ....


Interior painting all done.

Boot area still needs some work though.

After all of that the shell was put back on wheels and the final prep etc was done.






I am told this is the final phases and the end of the tunnel is in sight.
I have been collecting and importing some more parts for the re-assembly.
Hopefully that can start soon....

So my Minispares order has landed.
Got some much needed items. I was looking at the wiring that was in the car and decided a new loom was needed along with correct switches and fuse box. Asked around and could not find a moustache, so added that to the list. The all important locking outer handle was also added. The green plastic for the indicator and tall brake master and some other bits.

And so...

Here the body is back!


I needed the backing plate for the hinged rear number plate, so after some light swearing due to rusted screws, stripped this.


I had made a rookie mistake on the bood lid that was painted...
The holes where the hinge's captive nuts is, was body fillered over.


Some carefull drilling and the tap later, the holes was useable.

The original rear sub-frame was bent out of shape, so after removing all it's items, it is resting.
I stripped the rear sub-frame out of my one spare body and stripped that too.

After a good clean up.


Some red oxide primer later.

The items as removed from the original rear sub-frame.



Took all grease and dirt off and then wire wheeled items and then it was ready for some paint.



So now a question, was the rear brake back plates dated on early cars?
This item says 4561/081RH and left is marked 4561/082LH.


Some black enamel later.

Takes a while but well worth it

I note the double hole in the backplate, have you swopped cylinder sizes?

That’s the part number for that age of brake backing plates

Hi AndyPen

Thanks, yes I have swapped to 1/2 bore rear slave cylinders.

Thanks for the info on the backplates Timmy201.

Cheers

Ah little more progress.

Black or Blue?



Started to paint strip it.




Final

Next group of items that need some tlc.



Half way done, so the switch panel that came with the car is flat and has no indents for the choke cable etc, which is correct for the cooper S?




I finally sourced something that will completely elevate this car once done in terms of looks. Also I am proud to say very period correct...


Yes the tyres is as old as the mountains, I have already been shopping around for some new items. I believe these to be 10 x 5 Mini Lights.

Phil, do you mind if I respectfully make a suggestion? 2nd photo down on this new thread....... steering column bracket, switch panel....... Re the left and right handbrake outer cable anchor brackets. Can I suggest that you insert and weld in place a small steel fillet or web in the corner where the bend outwards. These unmodified brackets have a habit of bending at that point during the operation of the hand brake - leading to the handbrake cable appearing /feeling like it is stretched. It's not....., it's the bending of the bracket

I think that the later ones were modified to incorporate a web insert.
And while you've got the rear swinging arms off the sub frame, modify them so that each end, needle roller and bronze bush, can be greased properly from the relevant end. Simple to do and method is shown in the forum

Great progress

Hi Peter

Thanks again for the kind words.

Got some new Falken tyres.



Options to cover the bulkhead.


Stripped the original pedal box and a second pedal box also early mini.


Removed the silly pedal covers and welded the holes up and the holes in the bulk head cover.