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Next panel was the top tail panel. It had several challenges. Half of the panel stays absolutely flat, so it’s important to avoid any unwanted hammer blow and not to wheel it accidently. Below the window its reverse curved, a concave curve between window and flat area but a bulky shape from left to right. And finally the trailing edge, it goes up symmetrically in a smooth radius beginning from the flat area but ends in a slight curve from left to right.
Therefor I started with a paper-sewing pattern again and cut out the metal. For the symmetrical radius I used one of my gas bottles to massage the metal around the bottle by hand. Then I start hammering the reverse curve area, wheeled it and was quite happy with the result of my first try.

First try!

Just

Nice Try!

Amazing! You keep surprising me with your updates, really like this project!

The top tail panel carries the recessed fuel filler cap in the center. I build it separately to weld it into the tail panel later. First I had to form the diamond shape with the large hole for the fuel neck. Therefore I mad a wooden form to shape the edges. Then I cut out the hole and soldered a drainpipe to the lowest point.

Looking very nice! I tought to use the same method to do my new Airbox.
But there is always not enough time...

To weld it to the upper tail panel, I had to find the correct centered position and cut out the hole. To make things a little more challenging, half of the cutout sits in the flat area but the other half in the curved area. First I had to build a wooden buck for this particular position, which meets the exact shape of the curved panel from both sides. I clamped this buck on the panel to hammer the edge of the cutout downwards. After some trimming and flattening I gas welded the prepared recess to the panel.


This is how it looks like after cleaning the weld.

I just nlove these little updates. you make it all look so bloomin' easy

Good work!

Can't wait to the next update...

Thanks for your comments.

It’s time to build the C-pillar. With the foam buck in place, again I took the paper pattern to cut the panel. With only little hammering on the sand bag and some bending over the sand bag’s edge, the panel was roughly formed. Some surface smoothening with the E-Wheel and the C-pillar looks as it should. Nothing really new, same procedure as you have seen on the other panels. Next step will be the bead below the rear quarter light.

Cool that you also use a Laser!

Good work!

I guess not only Fabian has noticed the laser marker on the previous pic . This is a cheap and useful helper I like to use to find the correct position of the bead that runs below the quarter light and has to continue to the C-pillar.

Usually this could be made with a bead roller. But in this case the challenge is the bead fades away at the end. That’s why I decided to use the E-Wheel. First the upper wheel has a smoother radius on the edge than my bead roller dies , second I can let the bead run out gently and even by reducing the hand pressure from the underside. After this was done aligning and rechecking the correct position was necessary before I could weld in the C-pillar.

hi doc
well you are making great progress with your project and getting some great skills and should look great when painted up a ways to go still but i am sure it will not take to long now
how is the parts supply like there as it is grim here i order parts and they never turn up it is to expensive to ship from england all the time but one can only hope
cheers roger mcnab

Hi Roger,
unfortunately I don't know were you are located. In Germany parts supply is quite good, no matter if I order in the UK or locally. But since I'm in Minis for more than 30 years, my personal stock is well prepared on one hand and on the other hand I know my sources

hi doc
i am in australia there are a lot of suppliers but i got friendly with one that was very promising to start with but have let me down by not sending orders and not replying to calls and emails so i have now decided to give them the flick and do some e bay shopping here in oz those guys were a one stop shop and should have been great
getting parts from gb is costly postage is high but america is worse
i have been sourcing a lot of t100 daytona parts 1968 model most of which went to usa so the cost
but i need to get on with the mini so will have to get the v8 sorted ie rebored that is the hold up at the moment most of the parts that needed to be made are done so i need to get on with it and leave the motor bikes for a while
keep up the good work
cheers roger

It’s time to weld the different panels of the tail section together.

First I had to trim the rear edge of the top tail panel to the correct length. At the same time I had to shape the rear tip into a radius that matches the radius of the vertical rear panel to form a smooth and even trailing edge.


After the panel seams matched along the entire length, I had to fix the position before welding. As there is no possibility of clamping the panels in this position, I used a couple of magnets, to keep both panels aligned.


Again I started welding in sections beginning from the middle.


I’m glad that there is no recognizable distortion of the trailing edge, as there is no chance of planishing or straightening the weld afterwards.

Your whole project is just incredible ......but that last photo...WOW

Amazing work! Shape of the car looks very good, really incredible.

hi doc
the foley /stuart broad speed mini is for sale here in australia it also was clocked at 127 mph at mt panorama at bathurst it is in very good condition and had twin tanks like cooper s
cheers roger mcnab

roger mcnab wrote: ↑Mon Oct 05, 2020 8:56 am hi doc
the foley /stuart broad speed mini is for sale here in australia it also was clocked at 127 mph at mt panorama at bathurst it is in very good condition and had twin tanks like cooper s
cheers roger mcnab

One would need deep pockets to own it