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I wonder how many MKI floors do M Machine sell every year,I hope to start fitting mine after I finish the cursed Moke.

Quite a few I believe.

I had to wait 6 weeks to get mine and several guys on the Mk1 Facebook page were also waiting for theirs.

I so admire your ability to restore something like that. Any other car in that order would have been off to the crusher.
Respect!

miniminor wrote:I so admire your ability to restore something like that. Any other car in that order would have been off to the crusher.
Respect!

Appreciate your words Miniminor

I hope my ability is good enough to do this.

As mentioned previously, the only reason I'm doing the shell is that it's the original shell. If it had already been re-shelled before I got it, I wouldn't hesitate to re-shell again.

pretty sure you will be ok, I have replaced virtually the same on my mk2, even though it looks bad as long as everything is done in a methodical order then it is straightforward. The m machine full floor makes it far easier, I just used bare subframes, a tape measure and spirit level to ensure everything went together ok. It will get easier once the main floor is in.

Thanks for the reassurance Daz

I've got the floor up into place, bolted at the front to the toe board and subframe and supported by jacks at the back. I made up a wooden frame to support the floor on the jack stands.

Everything appears to be within a couple of mm and up against any adjacent panels that are left. The floor fits very well and has certainly gave me encouragement that the shell can be rescued.

Next step, once I've attached support brackets from the seat belt point to the brace frame, is to cut out the boot floor/seat pan panel and fit the new panel. I'll be leaving the rear pockets in for now to help with alignment of the seat pan. They will eventually be cut out and replaced.

Because the rear is rotten and therefore nothing to fit the rear lip of the floor to, my plan is to bolt on the full width rear panel lower repair to the boot floor, then fit the boot lid. With this fitted, I should be able to get the boot floor at the correct height at the back by getting the boot to fit nicely. Then slice though both repair and rear panel with a slitting disc and butt weld the repair onto the rear panel.

Thats the plan anyway ...

Andrew,

When I have done complete boot floors I have found it useful to retain the existing wheel arches and dress off the remains of the old boot floor. The pressings for the shock absorbers help to position the boot floor front to back.

I would also offer up the rear subframe to check the location of the rear mounting points on the boot floor. It is worth checking the distances between the holes in the trunnions before you rely on the subframe. Over or under tightening these can change the dimensions. Once the car is finished and you bolt the subframe in it doesn’t matter how much you tighten them as it is only the rubbers that deform.

I’m sure it will be a breeze once you get going. Thinking about these things is usually harder that doing them.

D

Yes, I was planning on leaving the rear arches in for that very reason, although the passenger side one is slightly forward due to being slightly too flexible in the recovery and transportation process

I'm leaving as much in as possible to aid in fitment of adjacent panels and only taking out as much as I need to achieve this. Unfortunately it is all rather large panels at the moment.

I'll be offering in the subframe as well to ensure distances between heelboard and rear mounts on boot floor are correct.

You are right, thinking about the best process is actually much more difficult than doing the job once a solution to the problem is found

Being in California I've never had to tackle such a huge restoration of so much metal! When I left England for sunnier climes we wearn't restoring mini's of that age they were still current daily drivers!! My hat (well ball cap) is definitely off to you.
My take on these huge body rebuilds would be to build a jig to get both subframes in the correct position and alignment and build from there at least you would ensure a straight running car?

A little progress this weekend.

Got the boot floor clamped into place where I can. Lines up nicely on the drivers side but not much to go by on the passenger side as the inner arch got bent when I moved the car from its resting place.

Bolted the one piece rear panel repair section to the boot floor and then bolted the boot lid to it. Once all jacked up into place to give a nice gap around the boot, I clamped it all up. Need to replace metal higher up than the repair panel goes to on the passenger side.

Next step is to make some brackets to hold the back of the boot floor and repair panel into place and then trial fit the subframe.

Looks more like a Mini now. Nice that the replacement boot lid is also Surf Blue. 81 LRM..... another casualty of the previous owner

Looks like I'll also be replacing the rear bulkhead as well Anyone got one going spare

I've got a rear bulkhead - it is from a Mark 2 though but I suspect that they are the same.

They changed late Mk2 Gordon.

If it has the early round (ish) hole in the centre then its correct. Later ones had the larger, oval hole.

Andrew - it has the round hole - I think it came off an early 68 car. I acquired it for one of my (many) projects but didn't need it. It still has the parcel shelf attached. Not sure if it is what you would need but I can send pics if it is.

PM sent Gordon

Hi Andrew

MMachine do a very good mk1 rear bulkhead.

I used the m machine panel and it was very good fit

For ref added pic of m machine panel. In case anyone else needs to fit one,

E4FB5755-02BD-4675-B94B-DCB125F73F8E by darren carr, on Flickr

Thanks for the recommendation Nick and Daz.

Looks like Gordon has got a very good original one for me that needs minimal work

That rear bulkhead panel looks excellent Daz, much better than I expected

The original Britax belts were still in the car and are in a very shabby and poor condition. Discoloured, hard and generally horrible.

Not being prepared to pay mega money for NOS ones, I thought I'd have a go at restoring them.

They are now both stripped of the metalwork, which will need re-plating or re-chroming as appropriate.

I've cleaned the webbing of one belt - see the difference !! I've scrubbed them using household upholstery cleaner, washing liquid, vanish and then more washing liquid and finally two cycles in the washing machine with my work clothes !! They were in soak for best part of a week.

Whilst not 100%, I am really pleased with the results of the first belt and hope to replicate it with the second one.

got to be happy with that!

will you re-stitch them yourself?