Introduction of a new 145/10 tyre

[swifty]

Nick thanks , it's been bugging me all day and you've confirmed exactly my thoughts . When I have my rosepetals balanced the weight is stuck in the inside of the outer rim . I will go and have them re balanced . Here's a pic of the issue ... ken

[IslandBlue]

Hi Ken
Our balancer has a setting for alloy wheels where the weight position is calculated so they can be stuck on the inside of the wheel .
Cant see why it couldnt be done on a steel wheel.

Nick

Something to look out for is the stuck on weights on the inside clipping the caliper, had this with my D1s with 7" discs, at least one of the wheels would not fit on the front for this reason. I was quite surprised the clearance was so minimal, less likely to be an issue with steel rims though.

[Dearg1275]

A small issue with 145/10 Blockley tyres on standard 3.5 /10 inch wheels. I have fitted these to my 1960 Mini-Minor. I also fitted classic Koni dampers. The combination doesn’t work. With standard rear brake drums the shrouds on the dampers foul the tyre. Later cars were fitted with slightly spaced drums when radial tyres were introduced. These drums appear to be NLA.

Messing about with washers behind the wheel suggests that 3/8 inch spacers will solve the problem. Much as I hate spacers, there seems to be no other answer.

This is probably not an issue with any car fitted with S type running gear but thought it might be a consideration for anyone considering Blockleys.

D

[mk1]

You can still get real lead balance weights on ebay, they are not cheap, but well worth it as far as I am concerned.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw ... e&_sacat=0

[Nevsmini]

I don’t think it’s a good idea to balance wheels when tyres are new. When racing we always balanced the wheels after a few laps as the tyres grow and change shape. Swift I would put some mileage on them first before you rebalance.

[smithyrc30]

A small issue with 145/10 Blockley tyres on standard 3.5 /10 inch wheels. I have fitted these to my 1960 Mini-Minor. I also fitted classic Koni dampers. The combination doesn’t work. With standard rear brake drums the shrouds on the dampers foul the tyre. Later cars were fitted with slightly spaced drums when radial tyres were introduced. These drums appear to be NLA.

Messing about with washers behind the wheel suggests that 3/8 inch spacers will solve the problem. Much as I hate spacers, there seems to be no other answer.

This is probably not an issue with any car fitted with S type running gear but thought it might be a consideration for anyone considering Blockleys.

D

I think Metro rear drums have about that much on them. Might be easier than the Cooper drums to find.

[Daz1968]

I had a car with 1/8 spacers fitted to allow radials to fit ok, it was a proper plate with csk holes for the drum retaining screws,

[ChrisM]

Interesting points about the clearance issues on certain shocks. But if the tyres are good, then spacing is worth it.

With the balancing issue, If you can find a fitter prepared to experiment a little, I would certainly take the worst one, remove the tyre and check the rim on its own. You could even do this on a static balancer. I wouldn't go blaming the tyre for the source of unbalance until I checked this. Nevsmini is also correct that tyres shift after being run for a short while, and it is best practice to drive and let the tyres settle before balancing.

Automated wheel / tyre lines used to fit the tyre to the rim and inflate it. Then the tyre is deflated and rotated 180 degrees on the rim. A second measuring run is carried out. The tyre is deflated again and moved so that the point of maximum unbalance on the rim is opposite that of the tyre, and if necessary weights added to bring into tolerance. Your new car never ran as smoothly once you put a second set of tyres on.

Now many modern tyres have marks to indicate the position of the valve, so I don't think the above is carried out any more? If so, a huge saving in time and expense for the car manufacturer.

Car tyre moulds and moulding techniques have come on a long way, and they are much better in consistency. You used to be able to actually feel the difference in thickness with your hands they were that bad.

I do have a friend who has run many cars on the track using wheels from 14" down to 10". He is fast and knows what he is doing. He has never balanced a tyre.

Looking at your wheels Swifty, are inside and outside weights at roughly the same angle? It they are, then the example you gave would indicate about 60 grams of static unbalance and 30 grams of couple (side to side). That's quite a lot. You have two issues. differences in density of material or thickness (less likely) and run out. Look for run out and take it from there. Bare in mind wheel runs off stud locations, but is balanced from centre hole. Are they concentric? Is rim / rim bed concentric with centre hole / studs? Does rim run out side to side when mounted on hub? Is this run out the same when mounted on the balancer hub? Also be very careful of paint under the securing nuts. Have known wheels to repeatedly come loose when this was too thick.

Enjoy your can of worms.

[swifty]

All points taken on board thanks .... ken

[snoopy64]

Hi,

Any more road reports?

[Metronick]

Hi,

Any more road reports?

I’m really pleased with them
Drove to Blyton and back (220 mile round trip) and for me
they were a definite improvement over previous Aquajets.

Cheers

Nick

[IslandBlue]

Hi,

Any more road reports?

I’m really pleased with them
Drove to Blyton and back (220 mile round trip) and for me
they were a definite improvement over previous Aquajets.

Cheers

Nick

Did that include any rain out of interest? Their wet performance seems to be the unreported part of the jigsaw so far...

[Metronick]

Hi,

Any more road reports?

I’m really pleased with them
Drove to Blyton and back (220 mile round trip) and for me
they were a definite improvement over previous Aquajets.

Cheers

Nick

Did that include any rain out of interest? Their wet performance seems to be the unreported part of the jigsaw so far...

No wet weather running yet....

[Peter Laidler]

Anyone put them on a set of Dunlop D1's yet? I don't know whether to get 145's or wait for 165/70's..

[abs]

I can`t bring myself to buy a set due to the huge BLOCKLEY on the sidewall making it not exactly a period looking tyre in my eyes, the tread looks great though so I may come around eventually.
My Dunlops are getting near to the wear limit which is a shame as they are really grippy when part worn and great in the wet but I got them at a very good price at the time.

[Andrew1967]

I can`t bring myself to buy a set due to the huge BLOCKLEY on the sidewall making it not exactly a period looking tyre in my eyes, the tread looks great though so I may come around eventually.

I too had the exact same thoughts when I originally saw the tyre sidewall. It's a shame it couldn't be a little less in your face BUT with the nice tread pattern and, so far, good reports, I think it the are likely to be adorning my Minis in the future.

[hanlminiman]

I can`t bring myself to buy a set due to the huge BLOCKLEY on the sidewall making it not exactly a period looking tyre in my eyes, the tread looks great though so I may come around eventually.

I too had the exact same thoughts when I originally saw the tyre sidewall. It's a shame it couldn't be a little less in your face BUT with the nice tread pattern and, so far, good reports, I think it the are likely to be adorning my Minis in the future.

It depends if you drive or show your car. Personally I would prefer modern tyres on a car used on the road. A wet weather review is needed. 145 v 165 is an interesting comment. I look forward to future comments.
Cliff

[Peter Laidler]

145's on 5" Dunlop D1's......... anyone.......?

[Dr S]

I wouldn’t. I’ve have 145/70 12’s in the past and they look under hatted.

[Dearg1275]

145's on 5" Dunlop D1's......... anyone.......?

The 145/10s are marked up for a 4 inch rim. 3.5 in rim undersize for it 4.5 slightly oversize 5 probably not greatly over stretched.

D