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Benny wrote:
I don't think I'm lost.....I don't have provisions for side lights in my headlights, and I have single filament bulbs in my indicators.

I literally have nowhere to run the red wire to, so it becomes redundant, correct?

no, because then you will have no side lights at all, only dip and main beam.

I guess you either need to buy headlamps with the side lamp bulb in it and the looms with the provision to run them, or some export twin filament indicators.

I guess it will depend on the look you want and the local laws you have.

rich@minispares.com wrote:

Benny wrote: no, because then you will have no side lights at all, only dip and main beam.

I guess you either need to buy headlamps with the side lamp bulb in it and the looms with the provision to run them, or some export twin filament indicators.

I guess it will depend on the look you want and the local laws you have.

I'm not worried about the 'legal' aspect of it. We don't have MOT's here, and you should see the lighting (or lack thereof, in some cases) that people get away with. That part will never cause me an issue.

I'll just go without side lights for now, and if a pair of dual-filament indicators present themselves, I'll add them later.

Benny wrote:.....I don't have provisions for side lights in my headlights, and I have single filament bulbs in my indicators.

Benny,

Didn't the original sealed beam units have a small clear patch in the reflective coating
and then a small plastic bracket thing that fixed to the headlamp bulb plug?

This assembly looks like one of those old-fashioned camera flash units...

Here are some photos. ( Not shown is the capless/wedge bulb )

If you look at your lamps, they may have the necessary clear window.
The new loom may not include the lamp holders for the "side lights" as we call
them here in the UK



I have a pair of these, but the wires have been snipped of short. Not much of a
challenge for someone building a whole car... I am not sure if the actual headlamp
bulb plastic parts are all the same, but these old style ones have 4 holes for the
sidelight assembly to clip into. A certain amount of mix-n-match may be needed.

If you want them, PM me and I'll send them over to you for a nominal sum to
cover the postage.

Ian

Ian,

Thank you for the kind offer, but my headlights are modern, "Lucas" H4's, and definitely don't have provisions for those.

I've seen drawings of those in catalogs, but I've never seen an actual pic of them. They are a neat little contraption.

Benny,

You are right, the later H4/P43t type are far better - I did not know if you were
doing a full "original-spec" build or not.

The normal weak point for higher than standard power bulbs is the indicator-stalk
style dip switch, followed by the main headlamp switch. After the switch-gear, it's
the actual bulb plug terminals that get hot.

I made my own wiring loom and spec'd it to handle 160w/100w bulbs, but normally
I use 130W/90W. I always get them aimed properly so I never get angry people
coming the other way flashing me...

Another old trick that I learnt from my Dad is to wire the dipped beam with a relay
so that it comes back on with the main beam. With two filaments pulling current
through a common earth on the lamp plug, I can only really use this facility with
the standard 60w/55w bulbs as I am sure that the plugs would quite quickly melt
with my 130w/90w's.



Ian

PS - I hope you got your clutch sorted?

Benny if youre running the H4 halogens without the pilot light (side light / running light) then that red wire might as well be redundant if youre not going to take it into a dual filament bulb in the indicator unit - Ive just installed H4s with pilot lights in my 71 so I used the red wire to power the pilots.

Pad

Ok, guys, I've got a couple more.....I believe these are the last tha have me stumped. One of the issues is that I'm working between two wiring diagrams in the Haynes manual, and an Autobooks manual, and neither diagram matches my loom perfectly.....need to get hold of a factory manual.

Ok, behind the instrument binnacle, there are two brown w/green wires that come to a single connection (first pic). One of my manuals indicates that these might be to an interior light switch. This would make some sense, as there is also a brown w/green wire that emerges from the main loom where it joins to the rear loom under the cowl, but there is no "mate" for that wire in my rear loom (3rd picture).

I'm confident that the two green wires (in the middle of my second pic) are to the fuel gauge, as they tie to the oil pressure warning light, as per the wiring diagram. The other one that has me confused is the light green wire (left side of second pic). One of my wiring diagram also appears to show that one going to the fuel gauge (making a total of 3 connections at the gauge), but I don't understand its function.

Lastly, one thing that seems very odd to me is that the wires to the horn (last picture) are the same brown w/green, and there is continuity between one of those wires, and the "loose" wire under the cowl.

Anyone have any thoughts for a "wiring idiot"?

The Brown / Green Wires are a live feed to a switch that is on the side of the Instrument Binnacle. The Switch is for parcel shelf lamps, which I'm pretty sure were inside the binnacle and illuminate through the holes in the sides of it.

Plain Green Wires are Feed wires, that come via the Ignition Switch and a Fuse. The drawing I have only shows a connection for the Fuel Gauge for this wire.

The wire for the Horn Switch in the drawing is Purple with a Black trace, the other side of the switch going to earth. I can't see any Brown / Green wire near the steering column.

And Benny, I think you're far from a "wiring idiot", please refrain from calling yourself that

Spider wrote:The Brown / Green Wires are a live feed to a switch that is on the side of the Instrument Binnacle. The Switch is for parcel shelf lamps, which I'm pretty sure were inside the binnacle and illuminate through the holes in the sides of it.

Plain Green Wires are Feed wires, that come via the Ignition Switch and a Fuse. The drawing I have only shows a connection for the Fuel Gauge for this wire.

The wire for the Horn Switch in the drawing is Purple with a Black trace, the other side of the switch going to earth. I can't see any Brown / Green wire near the steering column.

Interesting. I currently have the double brown w/green wire labeled as 'parcel shelf light switch' based on one of my wiring diagrams, however, I began to doubt that because there were no additional lamp bulb sockets in the loom to make use such a switch. I thought I had figured it out when I found the stray brown w/green going to the rear loom, as I thought perhaps it could have powered an over-head interior lamp in some models.

But then to discover that the horn connections are the same color, and that there is continuity between the horn connection and the connection under the cowl has really thrown me through a loop.

Does your diagram show three connections going to the fuel gauge, or just two?

Thanks for the help on this.

From previous experience with new looms, I'd guess that the part with the additional lamp sockets and wires for the parcel shelf would be a separate small (very small!) loom. For example, the guy I get mine from has the head lamp wiring separate. What made me check the diagram for yours is that a Brown Wire is normally a live feed straight off the battery, not fused! However, in this case it is fused. I know our later (than 64) cars here used a Purple Wire, which is a direct fused feed.

What also threw me on that is that the wiring in our cars is done to the Lucas Wiring Standard, I've posted the chart below.

The Green Wires to the Fuel Gauge are looped, yes.

Sorry, I should have done this before, here's the factory diagram;-





and the British Wiring Standard (which I believe was developed by Lucas)



<Edit to replace drawings and chart thanks to Photobucket (not) >

Spider,

Thanks very much for posting that factory diagram....that clears EVERYTHING up. I think I just needed to step away from this for a day or two.

The factory diagram shows:
-The double brown w/green in my first pic as being for the parcel shelf light switch, which will be redundant for now in my case, because I don't have those lamp sockets. Perhaps I'll use that for another accessory down the road.

-It also clearly shows the brown w/green wire without a 'mate' where the main loom connects to the rear loom. I don't think either of my other diagrams showed this!

-It shows the green wire on the left side of my second pic connecting to the fuel gauge, and powering the oil pressure warning light. This will also be redundant in my car for now, as I am running a mechanical oil pressure gauge, and my spin-on filter head does not have te built-in switch of the earlier filter head. Perhaps at a later date, I'll put in a 'T' at the connection to the mechanical gauge, and plumb in a switch for the warning light.

-Lastly, the diagram explains why I'm seeing contunuity between the horn and the loose wire under the cowl, and that's because they both connect at terminal A2 on the fuse box.

That's it....I think I'm sorted! Thanks again.

Benny,

No worries, I should have done that sooner! Would have no doubt saved you some angst as well as toing and froing.

Have a nice day mate

I originally labelled this Mini harness about 12 years ago, using a combination of about 2-3 diagrams from different sources. In hindsight, I was probably about 95% accurate, but I've done very little wiring in the last decade.

Last year, my understanding of wiring came forward by leaps and bounds when I rewired our IIA Land Rover with the "help" of my color-blind dad....that was fun. I wouldn't say I'm to the point where I actually enjoy wiring yet, but I don't hate and fear it like I used to.

This one demonstrated the importance of a FACTORY diagram.

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