mk1-forum.net

If I was computer literate I'd head you straight to it. But, alas, I'm hopeless.

Can someone do the decent thing. It does feature fairly regularly though........., just a couple of months ago as I recall

This one ? http://mk1-forum.net/viewtopic.php?p=272982#p272982

That's the one. No rapped knuckles, dropped spanners or burned fingers or air lock in the rear of the cylinder as described above. David the Dearg ought to start selling them.

I painted my bleed adaptor engine colour and it's not noticeable.

Thanks guys , I will take a look.
David

This is my version of an adjustable clutch pushrod:

The extended clutch bleed pipe is a really good idea . My wife’s Spi suffered from a seized slave cylinder after sitting around a few years ago and they are not nice to replace due to the servo and ecu etc . As I am recommissioning it at the moment which will included fresh fluids so I may well make up a extended pipe and bleed nipple .
Thanks

i purchased from Minisport their adjustable Pushrod ( well made item) but had to cut the Slave Cyl; Boot to enable the new "thicker" adjustable rod to pass through..( why dont Miniport also sell me a suitable bore rubber boot with their adjustable push rod ? ) spent some time checking the clutch stops settings & swearing at my slave cyl; pull back Spring .. have no idea why that Spring needs to be that strong.. then fine tuned the adjustable push rod to trim the clutch pedal bite point.
Now Clutch is sorted.. However the 1st Gear car stationary selection is often baulked there is a need to select 2nd Gear to then be able to get into First Gear to pull away.. Gearbox is a professional built 1128 gearbox back in 2019 & now only just driven 25 miles in total .,so hope 1st Gear selection will loosen up as gearbox gets some miles .. any suggestions why 1st gear is difficult to select ?

Polarsilver wrote: ↑Mon Sep 04, 2023 9:44 pm ... have no idea why that Spring needs to be that strong...

They don't. The ones available now are much stronger than the originals that I remember when I first started playing with Minis. At the moment I don't even have a spring on my Moke. After nearly breaking my wrist trying to fit the replacement one I got from Mini Spares, I found that it made the clutch pedal feel heavy, so I took it back off. I still need to chase up a nice light one.

As to why your gear selection is still a problem, I suspect its wear, or deteriorated hydraulics. You get to the stage of needing to lengthen the pushrod once the accumulated wear in all the contact and pivot points adds up, or the hydraulics start to pack up. Lengthening the push-rod can only gain you so much. In my case I replaced or re-conditioned everything from the pedal to the throwout bearing. In the end replacing the hydraulic hose to the slave cylinder gained me the most, but after it was done the gear selection was so much better.

Tim

If I can't find an original spring, I use a throttle return spring - much weaker, but enough for the job.

Words of pure wisdom from Tassie Tim there (hope that you're well Tim). Accumulative error and worn parts are the cause of all (?) your clutch engagement woes. Adjustable pushrods are a palliative and not a cure - no matter how good and Gucci they look. The hydraulics will just push it out by a pre-determined distance, dictated by hydraulics and maths.

Dead right...... you don't need that heavy spring. For heavens sake....... The lever will return to its start position on its own. You need a spring that will just keep it there....., to take up the slack so to speak. A throttle/carburettor spring will do just fine

And while you're there, drain and flush that old hydraulic fluid and replace it with everlasting silicon brake fluid. And no, contrary to popular belief, you CANNOT compress it

It's simple school 5th form hydraulics/physics again. I'm just going to sit in a dark room and bang my head against a brick wall again.

Polarsilver wrote: ↑Mon Sep 04, 2023 9:44 pm i purchased from Minisport their adjustable Pushrod ( well made item) but had to cut the Slave Cyl; Boot to enable the new "thicker" adjustable rod to pass through..( why dont Miniport also sell me a suitable bore rubber boot with their adjustable push rod ? ) spent some time checking the clutch stops settings & swearing at my slave cyl; pull back Spring .. have no idea why that Spring needs to be that strong.. then fine tuned the adjustable push rod to trim the clutch pedal bite point.
Now Clutch is sorted.. However the 1st Gear car stationary selection is often baulked there is a need to select 2nd Gear to then be able to get into First Gear to pull away.. Gearbox is a professional built 1128 gearbox back in 2019 & now only just driven 25 miles in total .,so hope 1st Gear selection will loosen up as gearbox gets some miles .. any suggestions why 1st gear is difficult to select ?

Not quite as bad as yours sounded but I built an 1128 box 15 years ago. The box was/is lovely but from the get go I had to force first gear and reverse with a firm 'push'. Otherwise it was perfect. To counter this I usually selected second gear on start up, keeping my foot on the clutch then moved to first or reverse immediately. Everything else throughout the box was crisp and clean. No graunching while on the move etc so I lived with it.
It still niggled me though but feared the worst. I really couldn't be arsed stripping the gearbox as I always presumed it was going to be an internal fault.

12 years later curiosity got the better of me. When I stripped it down it turns out I had made the mistake of fitting what I thought was a new clutch lever arm on to my fresh built engine at the time. On closer inspection I had fitted a zinc plated 'used' arm. The bobble on the clutch arm was worn.

I fitted a brand new standard Minispares arm and pushrod assembly with no real expectation but this was an easy job by comparison to an engine gearbox out job. Cured the whole problem inside an hour. Gearbox is now perfect. Couldn't believe the transformation for what effectively looked such a marginal amount of wear on the clutch arm
I only wish I had realised this sooner.

Hope that helps.

More words of pure wisdom from Mark...... But mark my words Mark and Tim, the same 'adjustable push-rod' querie will raise its head again within a year.

Remember also that if you do build-up the ball on the lever arm with weld, then it's got to be case hardened afterwards. And that ball don't wear on its own. It takes with it the axis hole, the pushrod axis hole and the pins too. Bore and sleeve them too to eliminate ALL accumulative error. Levers are ALWAYS loaded unevenly at their fulcrum or axis points....... that's why they are levers!

You can bent the arm until the cows come home but bending it.......... Anyway, rant over for today. (Maybe I've been listening to that James O'Brien LBC bloke too much!)