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Guywilko wrote:Rich

Are the minispares GHK1018 cooper disc bearings decent /within tolerance etc...?

The 2nd picture shows a split ring - where does this go?

cheers Guy

the split washer is the spacer fro the rear oil seal

the current batch of GHK1018 do seem ok, there are some terrible cheap ones floating around though.

Guywilko wrote:
The 2nd picture shows a split ring - where does this go?

cheers Guy

As Rich mentioned. This cross section may also help, item 8;-

Bearings. Just specify TIMKEN I say (other top quality are also available) but check the hologram thinggy on the box is intact. Remember that it's just like shopping at Marks and Spencer. You get just what you pay for

Peter Laidler wrote:Bearings. Just specify TIMKEN I say (other top quality are also available) but check the hologram thinggy on the box is intact. Remember that it's just like shopping at Marks and Spencer. You get just what you pay for

timkin have discontinued the GHK1018 ball bearing type, so it will be a real struggle to find some

occasionally RHP ones turn up on ebay

While we're here....... Does anyone have a cross sectioned/side elevation of the standard 998 drive, disc and hub as shown in Spiders Cooper S side elevation. Did such a thing ever appear in any of the usual BMC/BL publications? Never seen one

Just done discs and bearings on mine and had issues, turned out to be the new 7" discs had a lip that rubbed on the hub.
Filled the lip off and all was good.
The brand was TROY , as were the bearings...

Thanks Rich and Spider

Like Coopertune (first page) I made a littl;e gadget to use when setting up the hubs. Got an old CV joint, cleaned it out, stripped it and welded a slab of 1/4" steel plate about 3" long to the open bell-end. You can put this slab of steel into a good bench vice, splines upwards and slide the hub, bearings and flange onto it. Easy to get bearing spacer exact and rotate it all at the same time. Put the disc on and you can check for clearance too. Doing it this way it's the hub (11-spiders end elevation) that rotates instead of the CV and flange but the result is the same. Only done a few in my lifetime of course but it works for me......, and cheap too!