Paint Stripper - Any recommendations?

[mk1]

Having recently bought 5 litres of "New Formula" Nitromors paint stripper & having failed to strip anything with it, can anyone recommend a decent way of CHEMICAL stripping paint from parts in this age of health & safety.

M

[mister bridger]

None of it is very good these days but I did my roof successfully by laying it on thick and covering with clingfilm and leaving overnight. It needs time to work without drying out.

[Andrew1967]

I emailed Nitromors to complain about their double strength stripper as it's complete rubbish, even for household paint. They more or less admitted it was crap now due to Health and Safety !!

I have used some industrial stripper from work that is good, like Nitromors used to be. I'll find out the name and post up.

[Jono]

I understand that original strength Nitromors is still available to trade users.

..or how about Soda blasting?

[mk1]

I understand that original strength Nitromors is still available to trade users.

Not that I can find, & I have tried most trade suppliers.

Soda is not an option, that's why I asked about CHEMICAL options.

Thanks for the suggestions,

Mark

[rich@minispares.com]

this is the proper stuff


http://www.restexpress.co.uk/acatalog/P ... mover.html


home made letter heads and your home free (breathing problems aside......)

[coop12g295]

Paramose is good as endorsed by Rich Got mine off ebay

[rich@minispares.com]

joking apart though, you need to be careful with the proper stuff.

when I stripped the bus I used 25 litres of the stuff and used to just lard it on with a brush - I had breathing problems for months afterwards as I hadn't bothered wearing a mask (as it was outside, what's the worse that could happen...)


it was mighty stuff though, it would cut through 1/8th of old coach paint in a flash

[mk1]

Ordered, Thank you.

M

[pad4]

I mix nitromoors with neat methylenedichloride to give a super strength old fashioned nitromoors that burns your eyes out as soon as you look at it

pd

[ManyMiniCoopers]

The main active ingredient was removed from nitromors, and I can't remember its name.
New stuff was crap against the old stuff. So went to my local paint supply (auto colour match in Banbury) and they had a 5 litre tin of good stuff that had the old ingredient of nitromors.
Was good stuff, worked very well.
James

[Benny]

I'm not sure what your stripper is like over there now, but with DECADES of environmental protection regulation under our belts, California has thoroughly neutered most products like this...stripper, glue, paint....you name it. Nobody seems to realize that if you have to use double the amount of stripper, or paint something twice as often, you're not being "green".

In any case, one technique that I've adopted prior to chemical stripping is to go over the surface once with a VERY aggressive sand paper before applying the stripper. This breaks the sheen, and cuts deeply into the paint, which allows the stripper to percolate down trough the layers of paint. It can made a world of difference to the amount of elbow grease, and secondary applications you need to make.

[Ollie78]

I had exactly the same problem, my car has up to 9 layers of paint to remove. I tried a few (including one from the local car paint and panel suppliers) and found starchem synstrip the best and quite cheap, £25 for 5 litres. Bought from amazon of all places, no questions asked.

It does this around a minute. Its quite nasty stuff, you can hear it crackle as soon as it hits the paint, burns like hell fire when stripping the underside of the roof and some lands on your face. Safety goggles an absolute must and as has already been mentioned the fumes are not at all good.

P1060938.JPG

[pad4]

the active ingrediant was dichloromethane or otherwise known as methylenedichloride- nasty shit

pad

[Pete]

Bought from amazon of all places, no questions asked

I bought a pile of Ammonia from Amazon (hope the anti terrorist squad aren't reading this ), it's surprising what they'll sell you.

[RS6]

http://www.stripperspaintremovers.com/I ... remove.htm

[dklawson]

I don't know if you have an equivalent product in the U.K. but a non-traditional, green(ish) product that can be used to strip paint is Dawn Power Dissolver.

Power Dissolver (PD) is a strong caustic cleaner with a surfactant. It's sold as a degreaser and cleaner. Several years ago a VW Beetle owner accidentally discovered PD will ruin and lift paint if left on a surface too long. A multi-page thread about PD ran on the VW message board "The Samba". People there found ways to refine the technique and improve the results and posted to that thread for several years.

Like the weak solvent based strippers on the market today, you get the best results from PD if you roughen the surface, blow off the dust, spray a heavy layer of PD (it's gel-like and comes in hand pump bottles), then cover it with plastic sheeting or cling film and give it overnight to work. OEM paints and primers are often lifted off completely respray paints typically soften to the point that they can be wire brushed or scraped off. Some people have found that pressure washing the softened paint is an effective way to get the paint off and clean the surface at the same time.

I tried this on the floors of a project Spitfire with fair to good results. It's not the fastest way to strip paint but it is effective if you don't mind a fair amount of scraping and/or wire brushing. PD is "green" in that it is supposed to be biodegradable. However, once you mix any stripper with lots of old paint I think worrying about "green" is perhaps misguided. Regardless, with basic hand and eye protection PD is safe to work with and the fumes will not bother you.

[In the shed]

Yes DCM. Nasty stuff.

Useful solvent though. Very intoxicating.

When I was studying for my undergrad degree, I had to separate an aromatic amine and an aromatic neutral by fractional distillation and then perform a quantitative analysis (how much of each there was). I washed everything out using DCM, and knowing it had a low Bp, I knew it wouldn't contaminate my gunk. Anyway, the first fraction came out and I said to the Prof, "How will I know which is which?" He said "Smell it". I took a moderate drag on the beaker and found myself on the floor having had an experience which makes crack sound tame. It was exceedingly heavy shit and moderately related to chloroform (TCM)

[pad4]

i know its a bit off tangent but we used chloroform for gluing acrylic together , used to have it in syringes with large hypodermic needles poking out - if you squirted enough of it on peoples arse cheeks they used to get a dead leg - was quite funny untill one guy accidentaly leant on a syringe on a bench and injected himself with 30-40ml of neat chloro, after a good spazzing out session on the floor he ended up seriously ill in hospital so work banned it - we replaced it with DCM and tetrahydrofhuran

proper nasty stuff especially when you mixed it and set it on fire