Lifting a Mini engine and gearbox

[Benny]

I'm considering bolting the head onto my engine tomorrow, but I started wondering whether it would be best to leave the head off, and utilize the head-stud holes for lifting the engine into the car...

What is the most tried and tested lifting point for a Mini powerunit? I know on MGB's, the factory used the two valve cover bolts for lifting the engine and gearbox into the car...it looks a little scary, but considering the tensile strength of a Grade 5, 5/16" UNF bolt is about 7,000 lbs, I don't suppose it should be scary at all.

Does anybody use their valve cover bolts for lifting their engine and gearbox?

[almondgreen]

yes....

[vegar]

A couple of posts down in this tread is a pic of a Sykes pickavant lifting bracket

http://www.minimania.com/msgThread/1117 ... l_Question

[Spider]

The rocker cover nuts / studs will support the weight no problem, however you'll soon find it needs to be tilted back to get the diff cap to clear the body and subframe.

If you've got a rod shift type gearbox, I lift by the centre front head stud, it provides just the right angle. For a long time I just used a 3/8" Chain and drop the end link over the stud and did the nut up finger tight, re-torquing after removal.

If you've got an early type shifter, you need a bit more tilt and the C of G point is about 2" (50 mm) further in front of the front headstuds, so the making of a bracket might be in order.

[rich@minispares.com]

the sykes picavant lifter is 'the boss' when it comes to lifting a mini engine back into place


it just makes it so easy!

[Benny]

The rocker cover nuts / studs will support the weight no problem, however you'll soon find it needs to be tilted back to get the diff cap to clear the body and subframe.

If you've got a rod shift type gearbox, I lift by the centre front head stud, it provides just the right angle. For a long time I just used a 3/8" Chain and drop the end link over the stud and did the nut up finger tight, re-torquing after removal.

I do have the later, rod change housing. I was just plan in to rock the bottom end of the unit forward to clear the subframe with the diff. Does that sound manageable?

Up until a couple of years ago, I was still lifting big American V8 and transmissions into place without the benefit of a 'load leveler', so I figure this was doable.

To expand on this topic, what about the inner CV joints. I've had people tell me I MUST have the complete axle assemblies in place BEFORE installing the engine. I've had other people tell me the easiest way is to insert the CV "cups" to the diff before lowering it into place, then install then offer up the "guts" and rubber boots from outside the subframe. Thoughts on that?

[rich@minispares.com]

fit the outers of the potjoints first, then poke the inners, fitted to the driveshafts through the holes in the frame once the engine is fitted.

this way, you know that the inners have located on the shafts ok and the snap rings are doing their job.

its impossible to fit the whole built up potjoint through the hole in the frame if you fit it to the shaft (and it catches me out all the time - doh!)

its a simple task just to tie strap the rubbers on once its all fitted.

you have to be carefull with the potjoints if your fitting them complete, then trying to fit the bare shafts to them afterwards, its possible to push the inner cage back into the outer cup and then the snap ring on the shaft wont take, so the shaft then walks off the potjoint, or worse, punch the core plug out that's fitted in the end of the outer and then the engine oil will fill the rubber boot.

[Benny]

fit the outers of the potjoints first, then poke the inners, fitted to the driveshafts through the holes in the frame once the engine is fitted.

this way, you know that the inners have located on the shafts ok and the snap rings are doing their job.

Thanks Rich,

This is exactly what a friend of mine described, and it seems like the most logical approach to me. Strangely enough, it doesn't seem like the most COMMON approach, at least from the conversations I've had.

Oh well, there often seems to be an inverse relationship between the popularity of a technique, and the logic of that technique.....especially when it comes to MGB's, anyway.

[DougR]

The rocker cover nuts / studs will support the weight no problem, however you'll soon find it needs to be tilted back to get the diff cap to clear the body and subframe.

If you've got a rod shift type gearbox, I lift by the centre front head stud, it provides just the right angle. For a long time I just used a 3/8" Chain and drop the end link over the stud and did the nut up finger tight, re-torquing after removal.

If you've got an early type shifter, you need a bit more tilt and the C of G point is about 2" (50 mm) further in front of the front headstuds, so the making of a bracket might be in order.

Thank you Spider. I'm making my own bracket to lift the engine with remote diff cover. The 2" offset is exactly what I am looking for. Cheers, Doug.

[Peter Laidler]

In the past I have used a couple of those heavy duty nylon straps. They allow you to rotate the engine forwards and backwards to clear all of the usual obstructions. Used nylon ropes in the past too as they allow the same positioning and just pull clear when the job's done

[imack]

The original BMC engine lifting eyes work well enough for me. They can tilt the engine or lift it squarely depending which way round you fit them. They tilt an engine with a remote box perfectly making removal and installation straight forward.
Can also lower a block onto the gearbox squarely ensuring the 1/2 moon seal is seated correctly.

[Spider]

The rocker cover nuts / studs will support the weight no problem, however you'll soon find it needs to be tilted back to get the diff cap to clear the body and subframe.

If you've got a rod shift type gearbox, I lift by the centre front head stud, it provides just the right angle. For a long time I just used a 3/8" Chain and drop the end link over the stud and did the nut up finger tight, re-torquing after removal.

If you've got an early type shifter, you need a bit more tilt and the C of G point is about 2" (50 mm) further in front of the front headstuds, so the making of a bracket might be in order.

Thank you Spider. I'm making my own bracket to lift the engine with remote diff cover. The 2" offset is exactly what I am looking for. Cheers, Doug.

Wow ! that was a while back !

The Bracket I have for doing these bolts up to the Dynamo / Alternator Bosses on the block. If it's an Alternator, I leave that back bracket in place and bolt this lifting bracket over it. The one I have made has 2 sets of holes, for doing A and A+.

While I did use the 3/8" Chain for over 30 years for the Rod Shift, about 2 - 3 years back I made a new lifter for these that screws in to spark plug holes 1 and 4, this negates the need to re-torque the centre head nut.

[Peter Laidler]

I know that my fears are unfounded and understand all that, but......... there's always something in the back of my engineers head and brain that tells me that an engine and transmission etc etc is a LOT of weight to be hanging from and trusting in an inch or so of small diameter deep 3/8" threads sunk into a cylinder head lifting all that weight.

I'm on the same wave length as Spider here.....

[SPO41]

I have been using a single rocker cover hook, on the front centre head stud for 30+ years and have never had an issue.
It tilts the engine on the correct angle and makes a complete engine fitment from above very easy.

[Polarsilver]

Have tried every method from Sykes Pickavant Lifter to whatever Lifting Type bracket that fits onto any Head Bolt etc & my prefered lift method is an endless wrap around Lifting Sling .. just maybe a lifetime working with Large Cranes has fried my mind re health & safety when it comes to Lifting Loads .. Suggest to carry out within your mind as to what can go wrong ( Risk Assesment )..should something slip or break & what damage to that Paint or your own body may occour..
Me i prefer to load in an Engine from underside where everything is much better controilled .. only extra is a Pair of Long Aligment Pins to fit into the Subframe Towers then life is a doddle.

[Allen Brzeczek]

I am sure that these engine lifting brackets work but for me I prefer the assurance of having a couple of rope slings under and around points each end/side cradling the engine. With a quick test lift the angle of dangle so to speak can be determined and adjustment to the desired inclination is relatively simple before final lifting and lowering into the engine bay.

[DougR]

The rocker cover nuts / studs will support the weight no problem, however you'll soon find it needs to be tilted back to get the diff cap to clear the body and subframe.

If you've got a rod shift type gearbox, I lift by the centre front head stud, it provides just the right angle. For a long time I just used a 3/8" Chain and drop the end link over the stud and did the nut up finger tight, re-torquing after removal.

If you've got an early type shifter, you need a bit more tilt and the C of G point is about 2" (50 mm) further in front of the front headstuds, so the making of a bracket might be in order.

Thank you Spider. I'm making my own bracket to lift the engine with remote diff cover. The 2" offset is exactly what I am looking for. Cheers, Doug.

Ok the bracket is finished. Over the top or what? Here's hoping the angle of the dangle is correct.

IMG_20250424_202541.jpg

[Spider]

Looks good to me !