Quick Subframe Lesson Please!`

[alexm]

Evening all. I am currently putting a Mk1 style racer together and the donor car is a 1988 Austin. One of the jobs will be the front subframe rebuild including a 7.5" cooper S brake conversion. Could someone just confirm that the later type subframe, that my car would be fitted with has the large single bolt mounting arrangement? How do the early type subframes differ? I can't check my car as it's in the bodyshop hence my asking.

I've come across a chap who has a rebuilt front subframe (big single bolt type) with Hi-los, 7.5" brake conversion, adjustable bottom arms/tie bars. New top arms, wheel bearings - in fact most of it is new. The time and money that I could save by buying this would be will worth my while! I just need to check it'll fit my car.

One last thing - if it's the correct later subframe, and is injection - would it still fit my carb'ed car? I seem to remember injection subframes were slightly different for some reason.

Apologies for the 'later mini' quesions on a Mk1 forum - but my intentions for my car include a 998 cooper engine, 4.5" reverse rims and a few other period parts I promise!

[nick@dunsdale]

If your car is an 88 yes it will be large single bolt frame assuming neither subframe is out of an automatic car they will be interchangeable. Having said that you can fit a manual engine to an auto frame with some small modifications.

Earlier subframes think around pre 75-76'ish were solid mounted frames that had two fixing bolts per side at the front bulkhead crossmember they were also solid mounted to the body,
Later single top bolt frames have rubber mountings at the other four mounting point's front panel and towboard.

On the mention of late injection type frames I am not to sure.

[pad4]

i believe injection subframes have the holes for the eng mtgs further forward and all you need to do is redrill them in the right place

the engine was moved forward to allow the injection gubbins
to fit other than this theres no fitment issues

pad

[GraemeC]

You don't need to re-drill them, it all works fine without. Dizzy gets a bit tighter, but not too bad and you're better off with an injection rod change assembly and top steady bar though.

If you re-drill I would plate up the old ones as I think it is only a difference of about 1" between centres, so there would be very little meat between two holes.

[pad4]

lets rephrase

if you dont redrill youll need the gearchange rods from an injection as there longer than a non inj mini

if you do redrill then you can use your existing gearchange linkage

that makes it a bit clearer

pad

[alexm]

Thank you all for the replies.