Although, the lightweight versions are worth more.... if you have the missing bit, araldite works (for a while) - at least until you find someone who can solder properly..
Thanks Tim, I'll try that. I have a very good original cylinder - in fact a matched pair for my S that have stainless sleeves. Years ago I had them zinc plated and the cleaning process ate some of the solder. They have lasted about 20 years but recently the necks fell of both cylinders.
My local "expert" has made a dogs dinner of resoldering the necks but I'm sure this could be cleaned off with a little heat. I haven't bothered because I couldn't find anyone who thought they could do a better job of the repair...
I used "Kemtex B916 tinning compound" which is essentially just a suspension of solder powder in a flux. clean the area first, paint on a bit of the paste, then heat it with a torch. The tin is quite thin so it heats and cools quickly. If you work fast it won't melt the solder out of the other joints.
When I did mine I swapped the tin can for a better one off a later master cylinder. It was pretty easy to do.
Another educating post - can someone photo the two different types side by side so the less informed can tell the difference?
Got a feeling I've got the GT ones on my car but it took an S seal kit so must've the same bore.
Last edited by GraemeC on Tue Jun 25, 2013 6:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.