Front brake hoses and that hole...

[AndyPen]

Firstly, thanks to Dermot who reminded me that the hole in the lower inner wing on the nearside was originally there for a starting handle!!

I have always used it to access the brake pipe nut on that side, very fiddly but possible with a cut down box spanner. On the rally car we used to screw a cover on to stop the crap getting in and I thought, why not do the other side too? After all it could be helpful when the wok is so close, and a similar cover would keep the muck out.

I have just successfully dummy fitted the nut through the hole so thought I'd share the idea, and it saves the usual bending back of the driver's side inner wing

In an improvement I have also fitted @Gordon Catmint's stainless steel nuts, which at 13/16th are a little bit smaller so easier to work with. I was considering the taller nuts on the passenger side but these work much better to my mind. If you are looking for them he describes them as being for the clutch pipe:

https://shop.catmint.biz/product/2k8686 ... ess-steel/

Happy New Year everyone

cover open showing box spanner.jpeg

inner wing cover on.jpeg

[Peter Laidler]

Good idea Andy. Timely reminder to use Catmints stainless nuts and internal star washers too.

[Mudhen]

Wow, perfect timing for me on this post - was wondering how I was going to get access the brake line on the drivers side (on our rallycar coincidentally) - mentioned to my son possibly cutting a hole and he gave me that look like, 'I wish we could get through one single project without pup using a cutting disc!'.

Can't wait to show him this!

Happy new year!

[woodypup59]

I think works cars had that corner of the inner wing cut out to give even better access to the brake lines.

[AndyPen]

Wow, perfect timing for me on this post - was wondering how I was going to get access the brake line on the drivers side (on our rallycar coincidentally) - mentioned to my son possibly cutting a hole and he gave me that look like, 'I wish we could get through one single project without pup using a cutting disc!'.

Can't wait to show him this!

Happy new year!

I think our 970 circuit car was cut open in a similar manner. On the rally car this hole used to fill the area with muck and water so the original cover plate we made was alloy I think. I made these out of a piece of old drain pipe plastic and painted them with plastic paint

The foam offcuts were then used to make an improved seal, so a bit over the top compared to the rushed job of the past, plus I squared out the holes to take plastic inserts of course.

Be good to see what you do please

brake hole covers s.jpeg

[AndyPen]

I think works cars had that corner of the inner wing cut out to give even better access to the brake lines.

I wonder if that is where we first copied the idea from on our 970? I didn't recall this, so thanks for posting

[Tupers]

This on the rad side not the clutch but on my cousins rally car I removed the corner of the inner wing and created a new flange so we could get onto of the union with no panel work in the way.

IMG_2637.jpeg

[roger mcnab]

hi
well on my clubman v8 there are no inner guards to get in the way come to think about it there no brake pipes either yet
another job for the list that gets longer
cheers roger

[Mudhen]

This on the rad side not the clutch but on my cousins rally car I removed the corner of the inner wing and created a new flange so we could get onto of the union with no panel work in the way.
IMG_2637.jpeg

Wow! Very nice.

If I may ask the collective a question regarding a similar issue at the back...(front was successful with the hole and a couple of riv-nuts to hold the cover on - TY!):

Anyone do similar for access to the rear shock tops? With my cutting disk still warm I'm eyeing the rear bulkhead like a [insert almost-acceptable English saying here...probably something containing 'vicar' in it]. I'm currently working on a suspension update (first time on a rubber cone car) and I'm really, REALLY not looking forward to removing the twin tanks I recently got around to plumbing in.

Thank you!

[Peter Laidler]

I'd say that you'd be better off getting used to loosening the tanks Mudhen. Cutting out the rear seat upright is simple enough but getting to the tops of the shockers or helper springs is a real PITA - based on my experience.

Easier to loosen the tabk straps and tilt the tank (S) inwards on the hoses. Then get to the nuts while someone holds the tank clear.

[winabbey]

Anyone do similar for access to the rear shock tops? With my cutting disk still warm I'm eyeing the rear bulkhead like a [insert almost-acceptable English saying here...probably something containing 'vicar' in it]. I'm currently working on a suspension update (first time on a rubber cone car) and I'm really, REALLY not looking forward to removing the twin tanks I recently got around to plumbing in.

What you are thinking was a "standard" mod on rally cars with rubber suspension back in the day. On mine I had a suitably sized hole each side of the rear seat brace in line with the top shocker mount with a hinged flap covering each hole. Whilst still a bit fiddly undoing the top shocker nut it was much easier than moving a tank with fuel in it when servicing at the roadside on a dark wet night.

[Polarsilver]

my 1071 ( was a Works Replica on my purchase ) having the extra cut out to the front right side inner panel to get onto the Brake light Switch area .. Also this shell has extra access doors in the rear seat upright panel.. the intention to get onto the top rear shocker nuts with no need to remove either fuel tank.. this modification job was carried out by previous owner in what was then a new BMC bodyshell ..Both side rear shocker access hole has a hinged door with the indents in the door panel matched up to follow the rear seat upright panel swage lines, there is no need for any securing lock on these doors as they fit flush to the rear seat upright panel .
There was no seal on these "get onto the rear shocker nuts Doors" ..so they got some sticky foam tape of the type used on household window finishing trim ..worked a treat.
To date i have not needed to use these rear shocker access holes .. would be a struggle to free the nuts If the center rod decided to turn but it would be possible to release the top of both Rear Shocks with the Fuel Tanks in position.
As said this Shell was a works replica so also has the "Double" floor Cross Member & stronger Handbrake mounting & seam welding as where required.

[woodypup59]

[Anyone do similar for access to the rear shock tops? With my cutting disk still warm I'm eyeing the rear bulkhead like a [insert almost-acceptable English saying here...probably something containing 'vicar' in it]. I'm currently working on a suspension update (first time on a rubber cone car) and I'm really, REALLY not looking forward to removing the twin tanks I recently got around to plumbing in.

Thank you!
[/quote]

Yes, works cars again !

[Peter Laidler]

Norman described precisely what the main problem is with the rear seat upright access hatch is all about. Undoing the main nut while the 'bolt' or shaft part can turn! That's why, even from inside the boot, there are a couple of flats on the inner 'bolt or shaft part. To hold it with a spanner while you undo the main shocker or helper retaining nut.

The fuel tank - or tanks. Simplicity itself........ Disconnect battery, outside in the open and fire extinguisher handy. Drain/syphon down (I agree, not quite so easy at the roadside) Undo bottom tank strap and remove. 2 minutes. Wiggle tank and rotate inwards, articulating on the tank to pump hose (or tank to pipe hose for twin tanks). 2 minutes. Ask pal - or if REALLY desperate, ask wife - to hold tank clear while you do the job. Explain to wife that you are aware of the importance of speaking to Andrea on the phone, but helping you won't take more than a few minutes

While you're there, replace tank fuel pipe for ethanol resistant pipe and get behind to flood the rear wing/wheel arch area with Supertrol-001. and replace the neoprene buffers while I was there. Did it myself on a warm day late summer

[Mudhen]

Thank you everyone! Looking at it again from inside the car I can't imagine it's much easier - bolted in fixed back race seat (easily removed I suppose) and a cage to climb through. But I suppose those young, spry, works mechanics would be able to twist their bodies and get through it to replace a shock very quickly!

Funny you say that, Peter - Andrea is my girlfriends name! Don't think my wife speaks to her on the phone, however.

Tough part about my setup (not doing this on my mk1, btw, believe this is around a '75) is the hard line kit I put in doesn't leave much hose for moving the tanks. Think I will hold off for now (my first event this year is 1/18) and move/remove the tanks and do the rear suspension after that. I have rebuilt swingarms to go in, want to put on hydrolastic bumps stops, etc, etc. (etc, etc, etc).

Thanks again!

[hanlminiman]

To date i have not needed to use these rear shocker access holes .. would be a struggle to free the nuts If the center rod decided to turn but it would be possible to release the top of both Rear Shocks with the Fuel Tanks in position.

When my rally car was being prepared we added the holes in the rear bulkhead with fireproof flaps but unfortunately did not allow for the centre rod movement or sufficient space for a spanner or 2 (or socket) which meant I had to remove tank on one side to replace shock absorber.