problem refitting clutch slave cylinder
- Peter Laidler
- 1275 Cooper S
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Re: problem refitting clutch slave cylinder
That anchor spring thinggy...... Here's how to do it if you really want to fit it. Hook one end to the tag on the slave cylinder. Tie a piece of strong string onto the other end of the spring. Put the string through the gap between the sub frame tower and the flitch panel. You pull the string outwards from under the wing to stretch the spring and get your pal to hook the end of the spring into the plate attached to the clutch lever. Has worked for me for 40 years. That was until I saw the light...............
Or forget all that and use a carburettor return spring instead. All the spring does is ensure that the lever always reverts to it natural position
Or forget all that and use a carburettor return spring instead. All the spring does is ensure that the lever always reverts to it natural position
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- 850 Super
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Re: problem refitting clutch slave cylinder
If you leave that spring of, it should still work (not ideal in my opinion but there are many Minis out there without the spring).
They can be a pain to get on if you don't have the right technique.
If it was working before with that combination of parts, it should work again if the faulty ones are replaced.
I support changing the solid pipe to a flex hose when you have a chance (but solid should work if it is not leaking).
For others, maybe this is an early Metro? They could have been fitted with the diagram clutch with verto style slave cylinder. This would explain why these cylinders have what appears to be a spot for a spring.
They can be a pain to get on if you don't have the right technique.
If it was working before with that combination of parts, it should work again if the faulty ones are replaced.
I support changing the solid pipe to a flex hose when you have a chance (but solid should work if it is not leaking).
For others, maybe this is an early Metro? They could have been fitted with the diagram clutch with verto style slave cylinder. This would explain why these cylinders have what appears to be a spot for a spring.
- mab01uk
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Re: problem refitting clutch slave cylinder
Another photo of how things should look on pre-Verto clutch Mini.
As said above maybe early Metros had some different assembly parts to Minis...?
eg. Some Metros had cable clutch actuation instead of hydraulic from around 1985.
Interesting quote below from 'The Mini Forum' for reference:-
"There have been issues here on the forum with people needing to extend the push rod to get the clutch to work. I think the consensus of opinion is that it is usually due to a worn pivot or ball end on the arm, maybe a release bearing that is thinner than original spec, and in some cases a clutch cover that has distorted. I guess that the way it distorts is if the over-travel stop nuts are not properly set and someone presses the pedal hard.
You really do need a spring for pre-Verto, but it is not that critical, almost any tension spring will do. Its function is to keep the thrust bearing back off the clutch when your foot is not on the pedal, to prevent excess wear and possibly noise. A slightly softer or stiffer spring will still do that, too stiff and the clutch will become a bit heavy. Without it, the clutch travel may be erratic, as the thrust bearing may be in contact, or not, each time you use the pedal. And, there are hydraulic implications, if the piston is not pushed back you will get excess travel next time.
The Verto works the other way, a light spring inside the slave cylinder extends it to keep the thrust bearing in light contact all the time, and the self-adjustment is obtained hydraulically, because when the pedal is up and the reservoir port uncovered, the pressure will equalise to near zero (just the head of fluid in the pipe) in that condition."
https://www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/t ... ?p=2821081
Re: problem refitting clutch slave cylinder
there seams to be a big market for CSC repair kits which are nothing more then all the inner rubber seals; however this may now not seam to be the problemmab01uk wrote: ↑Thu Nov 21, 2024 11:05 pm
Interesting quote below from 'The Mini Forum' for reference:-
"There have been issues here on the forum with people needing to extend the push rod to get the clutch to work. I think the consensus of opinion is that it is usually due to a worn pivot or ball end on the arm,
Austin Metro MK1 1982 1.3L (same engine and box as the mini)
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Re: problem refitting clutch slave cylinder
When you have the mismatch of parts that you are dealing with, it is the function that matters not the looks, so anything that works as a spring will improve things.
Re: problem refitting clutch slave cylinder
I put the battery back on today, bit I would not start!
The clutch pedal is completely flat! (no compression)
I tried a piece of string onto the spring hock, and put the the knot through the hock and put the other end of the springs hock in the grove of the CSC. I then pulled on the string! But the spring is too tight! It keep slipping out of the string
The clutch pedal is completely flat! (no compression)
I tried a piece of string onto the spring hock, and put the the knot through the hock and put the other end of the springs hock in the grove of the CSC. I then pulled on the string! But the spring is too tight! It keep slipping out of the string
Austin Metro MK1 1982 1.3L (same engine and box as the mini)
- Peter Laidler
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Re: problem refitting clutch slave cylinder
Don''t bother with the original spring. Just use a carburetter return spring and save yourself from more anxiety......
To be honest, the spring is the least of your problems if you ask me.......
To be honest, the spring is the least of your problems if you ask me.......
Re: problem refitting clutch slave cylinder
After the car has been left to sit about a day, it starts OK with some choke and throttle. But if left longer then a day like 2-3 days then it is hard to stat it
Is this normal after completly removing and refitting the CSC?
Austin Metro MK1 1982 1.3L (same engine and box as the mini)
Re: problem refitting clutch slave cylinder
Can it be driven ok with out a spring?Peter Laidler wrote: ↑Fri Nov 22, 2024 10:08 pm Don''t bother with the original spring. Just use a carburetter return spring and save yourself from more anxiety......
To be honest, the spring is the least of your problems if you ask me.......
Austin Metro MK1 1982 1.3L (same engine and box as the mini)
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Re: problem refitting clutch slave cylinder
Do you think if I can start the car the the pressure in the clutch pedal will come back?
Austin Metro MK1 1982 1.3L (same engine and box as the mini)
- mab01uk
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Re: problem refitting clutch slave cylinder
If there is no 'pressure in the clutch pedal' :-
is there fluid in the master cylinder to correct level?
is the hydraulic system bled with no air in it?
is the clutch master cylinder working ok?
is the clutch slave cylinder and clutch arm moving when clutch pedal is pressed down?
Starting the car should make no difference to the 'pressure in the clutch pedal'.
Is the battery in good condition, fully charged and holding its charge over several days?
does the engine turn over ok on starter but just not start easily?
is there fluid in the master cylinder to correct level?
is the hydraulic system bled with no air in it?
is the clutch master cylinder working ok?
is the clutch slave cylinder and clutch arm moving when clutch pedal is pressed down?
Starting the car should make no difference to the 'pressure in the clutch pedal'.
Is the battery in good condition, fully charged and holding its charge over several days?
does the engine turn over ok on starter but just not start easily?
Re: problem refitting clutch slave cylinder
mab01uk wrote: ↑Fri Nov 22, 2024 11:29 pm If there is no 'pressure in the clutch pedal' :-
Yes there is NO pressure
is there fluid in the master cylinder to correct level?
I topped up the clutch reservoir, so fluid was above the 2 metal plates
is the hydraulic system bled with no air in it?
No, not bleed it! Last time I bleed it, I had the clutch pedal pushed down to do it, but if I try the pedal with no pressure then will it still bleed and pump out liquid from the bleed nipple?
is the clutch master cylinder working ok?
I think so, but have not done any tests on it before
is the clutch slave cylinder and clutch arm moving when clutch pedal is pressed down?
I do not know!
Starting the car should make no difference to the 'pressure in the clutch pedal'.
oh; I though it needed hydraulic pressure from the Clutch Master Cylinder driven by the engine to give it the pressure in the first place to work
Is the battery in good condition, fully charged and holding its charge over several days?
Yes
does the engine turn over ok on starter but just not start easily?
Yes turns over but dose not fire
Austin Metro MK1 1982 1.3L (same engine and box as the mini)
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Re: problem refitting clutch slave cylinder
From your replies to Mab is does sound as if your mater cylinder or perhaps slave cylinder seals have blown. Can you get an assistant to press the clutch pedal for you so that you can see how much the clutch arm is moving, if at all? If it isn't then you can be sure it is a hydraulic issue.
- Exminiman
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Re: problem refitting clutch slave cylinder
Sounds as if you have to start by bleed the air out of the slave cylinder.
Buy one of these Eezibleed type products and then you can do it on your own with very little effort.
Nothing else matters until you have bled, or tried to bleed the clutch hydraulics.
Even if you to replace the seals you will have to bleed it afterwards
https://www.amazon.co.uk/GUNSON-G4062F- ... 125&sr=8-1
Buy one of these Eezibleed type products and then you can do it on your own with very little effort.
Nothing else matters until you have bled, or tried to bleed the clutch hydraulics.
Even if you to replace the seals you will have to bleed it afterwards
https://www.amazon.co.uk/GUNSON-G4062F- ... 125&sr=8-1
Re: problem refitting clutch slave cylinder
I got the car started, it fired stright away with no problems
But again no pressure on the pedal and I did bleed the CSC and nothing happens!
The clutch arm looks the same either was with pedal down or up. But I used a stick pressed against the chair to do it, then I took a photo of it bough ways (please see atchments)
its looking like this is going nowhere now!
But again no pressure on the pedal and I did bleed the CSC and nothing happens!
The clutch arm looks the same either was with pedal down or up. But I used a stick pressed against the chair to do it, then I took a photo of it bough ways (please see atchments)
its looking like this is going nowhere now!
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Austin Metro MK1 1982 1.3L (same engine and box as the mini)
- Exminiman
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Re: problem refitting clutch slave cylinder
When you say you bled the clutch and nothing happens, did you mean no fluid came out, or fluid came out and no bubbles ?
Re: problem refitting clutch slave cylinder
sorry; just to elaberate; NO FLUID CAME OUT, completly dry!
Austin Metro MK1 1982 1.3L (same engine and box as the mini)
- Exminiman
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Re: problem refitting clutch slave cylinder
Sorry to sound pedantic, but can you describe how you are bleeding the system ie are you pumping the pedal etc…
- mab01uk
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Re: problem refitting clutch slave cylinder
A couple of videos in links below which may also help.
(Both videos are for the Mini but the Metro is similar).
Classic Mini - Clutch Bleeding and (Verto) slave cylinder replacement:-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VZmDy39RBr4
Classic Mini - Everything about Bleeding and Adjusting your Clutch (Pre-Verto) :-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q42ONqRfEfE
(Both videos are for the Mini but the Metro is similar).
Classic Mini - Clutch Bleeding and (Verto) slave cylinder replacement:-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VZmDy39RBr4
Classic Mini - Everything about Bleeding and Adjusting your Clutch (Pre-Verto) :-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q42ONqRfEfE