Early Mini Door Locks - Strength to Operate

[cobolman]

As I'm working on my 1960 Mini, I've been surprised at how much effort needs to be expended to close the door. It requires a really good slam to get the lock to engage.

Unfortunately, there's no-one near me with an early classic mini that I can compare with and I realize that I'm seeking opinions.

How much effort is required to close your mini doors?

How much effort is required to depress the tongue of the lock if you push it with your thumb?

Is there a recommended way of cleaning / oiling the locks?

As ever, thanks for any advice.

[Peter Laidler]

Is it the rubber door surround that's the problem or the actual black lock part?

If it's the black lock part held on with 3x screws, you can't strip it down but what you can do is slosh it around in some clean paraffin and get the shi....., er....., muck out and work it while it's in the cleaner. That should do it. As for a weight to close the catch bit. I'd say the wight of a 1 pound hammer laid on it/mine will push it inwards. But that ain't scientific by any means

While you're there, make sure that the surface of the bit that cams against the door frame thinggy are smooth, to lessen the friction. As for oiling them, I'd try to squeeze a bit of graphite grease into the openings - on the basis that if it reciprocates, as in your door lock mechs, then it's graphite.

They should shut with a small push. Definitely not like a railway carriage!

[AndyPen]

As Peter suggests, new seals are often the culprit. Mine definitely need a firm hand to close them and the other day when looking at a very nice Resto the owner blurted out, ‘at last someone who know how to shut a mini door’

[mab01uk]

Phoenix Trim tend to have the best rubber seals which actually allow the doors (and rear windows) to shut as BMC/BL/Rover intended:-
https://www.phoenixtrim.co.uk/classic-m ... p-67-c.asp

[cobolman]

Is it the rubber door surround that's the problem or the actual black lock part?

If it's the black lock part held on with 3x screws, you can't strip it down but what you can do is slosh it around in some clean paraffin and get the shi....., er....., muck out and work it while it's in the cleaner. That should do it. As for a weight to close the catch bit. I'd say the wight of a 1 pound hammer laid on it/mine will push it inwards. But that ain't scientific by any means

While you're there, make sure that the surface of the bit that cams against the door frame thinggy are smooth, to lessen the friction. As for oiling them, I'd try to squeeze a bit of graphite grease into the openings - on the basis that if it reciprocates, as in your door lock mechs, then it's graphite.

They should shut with a small push. Definitely not like a railway carriage!

Thanks for this, Peter.

The problem is with the lack part as I don't have the rubber seals in. I've discovered that it's a two part problem:
1. The door doesn't fit properly because the last owner welded in a banana door step and the door catches on both ends of the banana
2. The door lock (black lock part) requires a 5 ton weight to push the tongue back into the lock (I may be exagerating a *little*

I will give it a clean as you say and hopefully that'll do the trick.

[cobolman]

As Peter suggests, new seals are often the culprit. Mine definitely need a firm hand to close them and the other day when looking at a very nice Resto the owner blurted out, ‘at last someone who know how to shut a mini door’

Thanks AndyPen. I don't have the rubber seals in yet but, when I do, I'll know what to do

[cobolman]

Phoenix Trim tend to have the best rubber seals which actually allow the doors (and rear windows) to shut as BMC/BL/Rover intended:-
https://www.phoenixtrim.co.uk/classic-m ... p-67-c.asp

That's a great tip! I'll keep it bookmarked for future use. Thank you.

[AndyPen]

Phoenix Trim tend to have the best rubber seals which actually allow the doors (and rear windows) to shut as BMC/BL/Rover intended:-
https://www.phoenixtrim.co.uk/classic-m ... p-67-c.asp

That's a great tip! I'll keep it bookmarked for future use. Thank you.

Just to confirm that Phoenix are the best door seals. They come in different thicknesses and you can pre test using blue tack blobs around the door to see what size would probably suit you best. You simply measure the compressed blue tack

[cobolman]

They come in different thicknesses and you can pre test using blue tack blobs around the door to see what size would probably suit you best. You simply measure the compressed blue tack

Cracking tip. Thanks!

[Peter Laidler]

Bloke close to me just restored an ex Navy Pick-up fitted the doors and catches etc while the shell was still daubed in primer. THEN he fitted the doors and seals. That way he was able to slightly bend the flanges to suit the door shuts without having to worry about the surface finish. All fitting well....., not too tight or long gaps, then he set about painting it. Worked a treat

[1071bob]

Quote 2. The door lock (black lock part) requires a 5 ton weight to push the tongue back into the lock (I may be exaggerating a *little*

Worth checking the spring retainer on the backplate hasn't broken off and jammed the mechanism, I've seen plenty of these with cracks.
It is possible to strip these down to repair them but you'll need access to a lathe to make the top hat bushes. You have to drill out the fixings from the rear to strip it down and then drill out the outer bush to take the new THB, and reassemble with some Loctite.

[cobolman]

Worth checking the spring retainer on the backplate hasn't broken off and jammed the mechanism

Thanks! I'll do exactly that.

[cobolman]

Worth checking the spring retainer on the backplate hasn't broken off and jammed the mechanism ...

I've now checked mine and, while there's a split, it hasn't broken off (see pic)

I've given it a thorough clean with white spirit and doused it in WD40. Still very difficult to move the tongue. I may have to take it apart and have an engineering company make the THB's

Mini Door Lock.jpg

['S'-type]

These are pretty easy to get hold of though, like all the other mundane parts these days, overpriced.

This one's not too bad.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/286098376120 ... R5qUsoTWZA

However, it's always a bit of a gamble.
Repairing is always better than chucking stuff ...... if you have got the time.

[Tim]

What is left of Wilmot Breeden still makes them

https://happich-wbh.com/mini-slam-latches/

Tim

[Peter Laidler]

That's a pretty damn clever observation Tim.....

[cobolman]

What is left of Wilmot Breeden still makes them
https://happich-wbh.com/mini-slam-latches/

Great tip! Thanks, Tim

['S'-type]

It's easy to overlook our favourite supplier.

https://www.minispares.com/product/Clas ... %7cBack+to

Probably made by Weston anyway you would think.