Gearbox woes

[Jasonking]

Next issue with the mk2, unable to select gears including reverse? Change/bleed clutch fluid and adjustment? Or new slave cylinder? Will this car ever move under its own steam………?

[Tim]

It could be hydraulics, but not necessarily. The Mini clutch has almost nothing to spare in its movement even when everything is new. Even without a hydraulic problem, accumulated wear anywhere between the pedal and the clutch plate can all add up to not enough throw to disengage the clutch.

Get a helper to put a lever between the clutch actuating arm and the clutch cover and lever the arm out as far as it will comfortably go. If you can select gears now, the problem is likely to be on the outside (i.e. hydraulics, or wear in the various linkages). If it still won't clear the problem is on the inside, maybe throwout bearing or wear in the diaphragm.

Then check for wear. the main areas are elongation of the clevis hole in the end of the pedal where it pushes on the master cylinder, and in the ball on the end of the clutch arm where it pushes the throwout bearing plunger.

Tim

[1380Rallykit]

I always find that if you pull the rubber cover off the slave cylinder and get somone to push the pedal down if the piston inside the slave cylinder hits the circlip then the problem is not hydraulic and is wear in the clutch arm push rod and clevis pins.
Assuming that the clutch has been adjusted correctly.
Just a simple way of eliminating the hydraulics

[Peter Laidler]

The clutch mechanical system in relation to small amounts of wear have been aired many many times on the forum. Basically, a small amount of wear in any of the actuating surfaces, pins or levers is multiplied or exaggerated x5 during its path from the master cylinder link to the ball.

It's called ratio or accumulative error.

But DO NOT, whatever you do, bend the bloody lever to suit a duff clutch problem

[360gts]

All good points so far....however, if the clutch is not diisengaging....you would be grinding the gears when you try to select a gear.
You could try rolling the car (engine off) and see if you can select a gear....that will shed some more light on the problem.
I really think the issue is internal

[Classic1]

All good points so far....however, if the clutch is not diisengaging....you would be grinding the gears when you try to select a gear.
You could try rolling the car (engine off) and see if you can select a gear....that will shed some more light on the problem.
I really think the issue is internal

That's.a good shout in one of Jason's posts he said its not been used for a while clutch may well be stuck on
Started a few vehicles in gear and driven a couple of miles before it released especially tractors you never know you might be lucky

['S'-type]

All good points so far....however, if the clutch is not diisengaging....you would be grinding the gears when you try to select a gear.
You could try rolling the car (engine off) and see if you can select a gear....that will shed some more light on the problem.
I really think the issue is internal

That's.a good shout in one of Jason's posts he said its not been used for a while clutch may well be stuck on
Started a few vehicles in gear and driven a couple of miles before it released especially tractors you never know you might be lucky

I've done something similar with a friend's car that had stood for years. Raise the front wheels and support the car really well. Start it in gear, can't remember which. Then apply pressure to the clutch while occasionally dabbing the brakes. It worked, crude but effective. It was a long time ago but I think I've described it correctly.
Obviously you need to establish first that the clutch release mechanism is exerting pressure.