Rustproofing

[panda911]

Hello.
Is there a consensus on what sort of rustproofing to use.
The mini is covered in stonechip under the body with the exception of the subframes and I have not been able to find
any waxoyl, whatever, in doors so I assume no attempt in the boxsecctions.
In my day there was only waxoyl, there must be better products now.
Thank you.
Paul

[AndyPen]

Hopefully Peter Laidler will chip in as he has great experience on this score - over a long period of time too

[Peter Laidler]

Several years ago we were looking for a product that could protect armour and soft skinned vehicles going as deck cargo down the Atlantic and into what was described as a war zone in the Middle East, to liberate a Country, thoughtlessly annexed by a neighbourly dictator.

Of all the products, that chosen was Supertrol 001 then marketed by Action Can in Liverpool. It FAR exceeded what was expected and the claims of others, including the one you mention. It has recently changed its formulation, they say, for the better as it leaves a thicker layer of this greasy mess.

If I was in the mood I'd go on. But as a result of this, I liberated a gallon or so and had it decanted into many big aerosol cans and absolutely flooded my brand new, unregistered and pretty much stripped-to-a-shell Rover Cooper Sport 5. It went everywhere until it was dripping out all over the garage floor - protected by old newspaper. And when it had settled down and dried off after 6 weeks, I did it all again. And it's still like brand new. Put a bore-scope down the full length of the sills and up into the A posts and under the scuttle......., in fact everywhere and you'll still see oily brown shiny bright steel.

That's my experience. I suggest that you punch in SUPERTROL in the forum search thinggy

[panda911]

thank you.
BR
Paul

[Polarsilver]

i use Bilt Hamber "Dynax-UC" clear film anti-corrosion wax.. comes in a 750ml aerosol that will spray through 360deg; "If Needed" ..in my opinion great stuff & use it on everything not just bodywork for example drive shafts & suspension parts, etc... even use on paintwork stone chips on the daily car until i can get around to sorting the paint repair out .. If this stuff was edible i would have it on Toast

[InnoCooperExport]

Someone on TMF did a comparison of many rustproofing agents and Bilt-Hamber Dynax came out top, so like Polarsilver I've slathered it all over the bottom of my car, incl subframes and suspension, handbrake fairleads etc. Hopefully it should keep it all clean and rust free for many years to come.

[MiNiKiN]

Fluid Film (made from Lanolin and used in ballast tanks of offshore ships) is my choice.
Available in different viscosities, so either capable to creep or to build thicker layers.

Will even soften old undercoat and penetrate tiny cracks in it

https://www.fluid-film.com/

[111Robin]

Re Supertrol, they have changed the formula such that it no longer flows it just sticks to the surface therefore is useless for most of the areas to be protected. I had some old cans and compared them with new ones and they were completely different. Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 is my choice these days.

[Peter Laidler]

I take on board all the others comments and recommendations. Maybe vehicles going to the Gulf via the Bay of Biscay as deck cargo wasn't a realistic or rigorous enough test of its properties. Or maybe it was just calm sunny day. But that was my experience.

The DOWN side is that when I look into my engine bay, some external underside seams and sub frames, the road dust has stuck to the still sticky Supertrol that's still busy doing its job. But as one of the trials team commented to me at the time '.....you don't see a lot of rusty oil.....'

[gs.davies]

What happens in the event something like the Bilt Hamber product was applied to a car that already had gallons of waxoyl sprayed into the cavities?

[Peter Laidler]

Or even worse, sprayed on a car that had been done in that early 70's ZIEBARET! Anyone remember that stuff? It was good for a couple of years and stuck like shit to a blanket. But alas........, the rust just spread, unseen, below it!

[Polarsilver]

Well Pete.. past times i used a clear Wax from Wurth it was good stuff that Wurth apparently supplied the VW Group to apply to their new production Car Engines so some will still be on your Golf ..i lost my contact to supply Wurth products so switched to Bilt Hamber .. in my experiences Dynax UC clear wax does not collect dust & dirt on-top of the stuff when wax is dry .. have found by use its all ok to apply it on Paintwork such as the body shell seams etc .. also use it on all my Engines & the aluminium engine bay bits on the Daily ..yes it seems to stand the engine & gearbox heat with no odd smell apparent .. "anti corrosion" Bilt Hamber Wax yes expensive ..but as with most things you get what you pay for

[Peter Laidler]

We've all got different opinions - and a good thing too! The MOST import thing is that the sooner we start the rustproofing process, the better. I think that with all the supertrol I've sloshed and sprayed on my cars, it's doubled the weight!

My neighbour here was something on the Metro production line and regular;y saw them going down. He bought an MG Metro on the employers purchase scheme and it was him that taught me to set about rust protecting it on day 1! He had it totally apart in his garage and waxoyled it with hot waxoyl sprayer everywhere!!!!!

[MagicWandWoody]

As above... there are lots of options and personal preferences, but the main thing is to apply *something*, especially inside the sills and other cavities. Most modern products actually dry or semi-dry after application so they don't make the exterior sticky nor dribble out of cavities onto the drive on every hot day, like Waxoil used to.

For me, it's Bilt Hamber UC and S50 in aerosol form, but that's just because it's the brand I first bought after browsing around forums for recommendations - I'm very happy with how it applies and seems to cover, but that doesn't mean it's the best.

Beware that some Mini cavities have openings into the interior - possibly concealed by carpet or trim. Even a small hole can allow large dribbles of whatever you apply to flow through - it can also spray out as the applicator passes the hole. Mask these before application otherwise your interior can be ruined. Or, ideally, get the rustproofer into the cavities after painting but before fitting the interior. BH's S50 is particularly bad for this problem: it's dark brown and flows freely when first applied, until it dries. If you have to treat a car that has a whole interior already fix in, then maybe seek a clear non-staining product instead. Also, obviously, cover brakes before spraying waxy stuff around underneath. I'd also suggest wearing a breathing mask especially with the UC which soon fills the space under the car with a fine mist as you spray the underside and the arches.

[Peter Laidler]

Further to what MWWoody says above. Take the notorious rear sub frames. There are plenty of little gaps where metals are welded and joined where you can insert a long 'straw' and inject the preservative stuff deep into the cavities and allow it to seep and creep between the fabrications. The top right and left hand surfaces are notorious for rusting out but there are plenty of small gaps that feed into the box sections. Same as the front cross member. Plenty of hoes there to squirt the stuff deep into the box section.

Just doing one now. I might point out the holes, gaps and openings and put it up on the tech How I did it section

[Costafortune]

I only ever used Waxoyl. The last time was probably 1990.

I used it in an empty and washed out Schutz (not Shultz ) tin with a Schutz gun. A short bit of rubber hose and a bit of bendy copper fuel pipe.

Heat it up and thin it slightly with paraffin and and blast it into box sections at 100 psi. The stuff turned into a waxoyl fog and got everywhere and clung to everything.

There are certainly better products now however.

[mab01uk]

I have only ever used Waxoyl or Supertrol, both have certainly protected the sills, door bottoms, A-panels, rear subframe, etc back in the day, when I was still using Minis as daily drivers, left outside in all weathers...but in more recent times I very rarely take my garaged all year round Mini out in the rain and never when there is winter salt on the roads.

[MiNiKiN]

As above... there are lots of options and personal preferences, but the main thing is to apply *something*, especially inside the sills and other cavities. Most modern products actually dry or semi-dry after application so they don't make the exterior sticky nor dribble out of cavities onto the drive on every hot day, like Waxoil used to.

I prefer the stuff that stays sticky despite the obvious down-sides. At least it keeps creeping into the nooks and cranies even long after it had been applied.

[panda911]

Hi Peter.
If you have pix then I would appreciate you posting.
BR
P

[Exminiman]

i use Bilt Hamber "Dynax-UC" clear film anti-corrosion wax.. comes in a 750ml aerosol that will spray through 360deg; "If Needed" ..in my opinion great stuff & use it on everything not just bodywork for example drive shafts & suspension parts, etc... even use on paintwork stone chips on the daily car until i can get around to sorting the paint repair out .. If this stuff was edible i would have it on Toast

Impressed with their products, have you tried S50 https://bilthamber.com/product/dynax-s50/ as well ?

Just wondered what it was like

Their Hydrate 80 is good. for priming and where theres been rust.