MK1 Replacement Floor and Sill Options

[politeperson]

I managed to get the car off the rotisserie today, which was a bit of a struggle.

Then I put her on a pallet, supported on 2x2s.

I couldn't face any more welding, so I thought I would mount the hanging panels.

I used the original bonnet. reattached the scuttle and wings and it seems ok. The bonnet is Tweed Grey on the inside so probably original to the car.

I added the mustache for no reason.

The new rear boot lid lined up nicely and the doors too, all on new hinges.

I will talk to the painter tomorrow about getting her in.

If he says next week, fine by me, I shall finish her off and deliver it to him next week!

Not much welding to do now, just filling in some plugs and a few seams to carefully finish.

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[mab01uk]

Looking good!

[politeperson]

Well,
Whether the forum is closing or not, I am continuing!
I have a feeling it wont.

I spoke to the paint shop and they are expecting the shell to be delivered the day after tomorrow.
So I have been busy grinding, welding, sealing and painting again.

I made a trolley mounted on the lower bulkhead and the rear sub-frame mounts so not chance of denting the floor pans.

I disassembled the sub-frame and dropped all the bits off at the blasters. I modified the front one by rounding off the tangs for the new dry set up.

I then met John the engine builder who had everything running nicely sat on the floor.


The shell looks the same but its not. Its completely different because it is not ever coming apart again now I have melted it all together.

I took off the front-end panels again, punched holes, drilled holes, cleaned up the weld areas, re-used my tek screw holes, welded the front panel, welded the scuttle, welded the front wing then welded the left wing.

This is how it is going to look now.

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Then I welded the seams on the right side.
Then I welded the light panels in the rear and almost finished off the the rear panel bottom repair panel.

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Tomorrow the left side and the final bits inside, so I took the doors off again for access.

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I didn't forget to blow it all out with the air-line, otherwise I shall be greeted by a covering of rust stains made out of iron grit. Have to do that at the end of the sessions.

[politeperson]

And I nearly forgot,

On the subject of wheels and tyres, I bought 5 steel wheels from Mini Sport with new wheel-nuts that seemed good value. When I had a look, they looked very nice indeed I thought. They are 4.5 inches wide.

I took one to the paint shop so they could make sure the Old English White for the roof paint matched.

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Then it was the same quandary I have had many times before. Do I spring for the expensive Michelins at £400 a corner for a car that will sped most of its life asleep under an electric blanket? or good old Blockleys rated at 150 mph for £150 a corner. This is in the case of the Citroens or the Jaguars.

In the case of Minis, lovely Dunlops or Pirellis will exceed £160 a corner. Maybe if I was racing.

I have had great experience of Blockleys on some pretty exotic cars. They look period and do the business and the price is key for me for tyres that will probably expire through being too old than being worn out.

So at £65 corner, 5 x 165 x 10 inch Blockleys it was, delivered straight to the tyre fitters from Oxford.

Then I started looking at Autosparks looms, yes please and an Automec brake pipe set, yes, that will save time.

So hopefully when it comes back from the painter, I should be able to lift up a built up pair of sub-frames and fit the brake pipe and wiring loom in short order. I think standard Cooper S brakes look well priced and will do for me.

What I must find out about is whether the rubber cones in the rear are any good, having spent 40 years sitting in a shed. Do they perish or go hard?

[mab01uk]

What I must find out about is whether the rubber cones in the rear are any good, having spent 40 years sitting in a shed. Do they perish or go hard?

You might find these threads linked below of interest.

Suspension Cone Recommendations:-
http://mk1-forum.net/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=36651

Old Dunlop rubber cones and new Red Spot - which where?
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=30761&p=340758

[politeperson]

Thanks for that. Some excellent information, I think soft is the way I would like to go.

I am also thinking about anything else I should fit prior to re installing the front sub-frame, engine, gearbox and radiator in one go.

I was thinking front to rear brake pipe at least, maybe the clutch/brake masters and pedal box too?

[GraemeC]

Brake pipes, fuel pipe and steering rack are the things that go between subframe and body and so will need doing first.
Everything else should be do-able after the engine is in, but I’d fit your speedo cable to the gearbox and then drape it over the top of the engine ready to route into the car later.

[mab01uk]

When you say install front sub-frame, engine, gearbox and radiator in one go, do you mean as they did on the production line?
Personally I would always fit the front subframe/suspension first and then lower the engine/gearbox into the engine bay from above, while protecting newly painted surfaces on its way in.

[politeperson]

Thanks. Better check the rack out then.

I was thinking about lifting the whole lot in as one as I do a similar thing with E types, where the clearance is very tight between the power unit, frames, gear lever and bulkhead.

I have a selection lifting equipment at the farm, so I can safely raise the shell up to working height on wood whilst separately lifting in the built up sub-frame from underneath.

If its like an E type, it will all need to be raised up from a small pallet on blocks, to clear the body as it goes in.

Sound feasible? If not I can split it.

Looking at the radiator shroud, it is thick at the top and thin at the bottom, suggesting it came in from underneath.

Anyone got a photo of how they did it in the factory?

[Polarsilver]

i sort the steering rack out & install before anything else on a rebuild.. next the Wire Harness goes in & the Brake system plumbing & pedals go in..next rear subframe all fully build with working handbrake onto its rear wheels .. then Engine & Box fully built up with Exhaust Manifold & Radiator all built into the front subframe ( fit Rad & Fan assembly to ensure the "new" Bottom Hose fits correctly with good clearances) .. I have 4 Post Lift so hang the front of shell over into fresh air ( shell is supported by blocks at the front floor to keep it Horizontal ..with the rear sitting on its wheels .. tie the rear of shell onto the lift with some rope ( so nothing will roll away) .. make some long alignment studs/ pins that fit into the top of a twin bolt subframe towers ( helps to keep the alignment of the front subframe when lifting all into position) place f/subframe & power unit on a plywood board wheely trolley that i use to move the now fully built engine unit around // next lowering the shell to near position alignment over the f/subframe. i raise the subframe & engine upward the last few inches by using a Trolley Jack positioned under this plywood trolley for final lifting & alignment of the subframe up into the engine bay & bolt up..connect Track Rods & fit front wheels release handbrake & roll the Shell back onto the ramp for final finishing .. this is all carried out as a one man job.
Carbs/ Starter Motor & Alternator/ Dynamo all go in later.

[dazibee]

I don't think the wheels were ever old English white, so if you are colour matching your roof to the wheels your roof may end up not being oew, if that matters to you?

[mab01uk]

Late mk1 Cooper S wheel colour:-
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=37790&p=332493

Quote: "...there are no colour codes for any wheels. These were painted by the supplier before they got to the factory & the colour fluctuates wildly from batch to batch & from supplier to supplier.
These colours could be a whole range of silvers, dark cream through to pail cream & as you say in some cases a grey that is not a million miles off dove grey.
If you choose a colour that you think is right, it's as right as it is ever going to be."
http://mk1-forum.net/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=12916

[mab01uk]

Thanks. Better check the rack out then.

I was thinking about lifting the whole lot in as one as I do a similar thing with E types, where the clearance is very tight between the power unit, frames, gear lever and bulkhead.

I have a selection lifting equipment at the farm, so I can safely raise the shell up to working height on wood whilst separately lifting in the built up sub-frame from underneath.

If its like an E type, it will all need to be raised up from a small pallet on blocks, to clear the body as it goes in.

Sound feasible? If not I can split it.

Looking at the radiator shroud, it is thick at the top and thin at the bottom, suggesting it came in from underneath.

Anyone got a photo of how they did it in the factory?

If you have suitable lifting equipment....this is how the factory did it....see screenshot and Pathe video below.



The Incredible Seven Reel 3 (1961) :-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qwWasALEJyQ

[politeperson]

That is what I was thinking, no messing around with that method.

[Peter Laidler]

Might I respectfully make a brilliant suggestion Politeperson? Unless you are a particularly concourse and originality minded polite person, can I suggest that you leave out the troublesome, knuckle grinding, finger-nail ripping, abuse causing, worthless piece of metal work that serves absolutely no thermal or mechanical purpose whatsoever, waste of time radiator shroud that is attached to the inner side of the left inner wing.

All your radiator, fan and front of the engine access problems will be a thing of the past. And lowering the car onto the body directly or by allowing it to rotate downwards on the rear wheels will be simplicity itself.

It's the BEST thing that I ever did. And do you know what.......? I can't think of anyone that's actually commented on the fact that my car hasn't got one!

Brilliant rest project

[politeperson]

Well I am all for that, sounds sensible, although I have now dispatched it all to the painter!

So I shall see how I feel about it when it returns in a couple of weeks.

In the meantime the sub-frames were blasted today and pronounced perfect by the blaster, so they wil get a coats or 2 of etch and satin black.

I also dropped the wheels off at the tire shop where the Blockleys should be waiting for them.

I decided to purchase the brakes, masters, cones, UJs, steering rack kit and anything else I could think of to be able to complete the sub-frame assemblies in the cars absence, so I can get it back onto its wheels.

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[politeperson]

By the way, the wheels turned out to be Snowberry, not OEW. The paint shop checked them for me.

[Exminiman]

. make some long alignment studs/ pins that fit into the top of a twin bolt subframe towers ( helps to keep the alignment of the front subframe when lifting all into position)

Now thats a good idea....save a load of messing about, lining subframe up..

[mab01uk]

I always prefer the front subframes fitted with studs for easier alignment. There is a theory that Cowley (Morris) used studs and Longbridge (Austin) used bolts....while remembering if so, quite a few Austin Minis were built at Cowley probably with studs!
http://mk1-forum.net/viewtopic.php?p=17981#p17981

[gs.davies]

I fitted the engine, gearbox and subframe assembly single handedly during a lunch break using a high lift jack, some tall axle stands and a couple of planks of wood. FAR easier than dangling an engine in over fresh paintwork.

http://mk1-forum.net/viewtopic.php?p=317727#p317727