Hi All,
I’m about to attempt to remove my early coil spring flywheel to investigate a clutch issue.
I bought the minispares puller but the insert that sits between the bolt and the crankshaft won’t fit through the flywheel, and without the insert the bolt is not long enough to allow the puller to work.
I don’t have the tools to modify the insert and reduce its diameter, would it be ok to use something else like a small nut or a socket of the appropriate size?
Alternatively I could source 3 shorter bolts to hold the puller closer to the flywheel and use the large bolt with no insert.
Has anyone experienced the same issue, or am I missing something here?
Thanks,
Jonathan
Early flywheel removal question
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Early flywheel removal question
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- 1275 Cooper S
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Re: Early flywheel removal question
Remove the keyed washer. Steve (CTR) And you can use a socket but push on end of crank.
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- 998 Cooper
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Re: Early flywheel removal question
As Steve has already said, you need to remove the keyway washer.
The way you have it setup currently the puller is not contacting the crank tail. Keep cranking as it is and you will either wreck the tool or pull the threads out of the flywheel! Easy mistake to make if it's your first time doing this task.
The way you have it setup currently the puller is not contacting the crank tail. Keep cranking as it is and you will either wreck the tool or pull the threads out of the flywheel! Easy mistake to make if it's your first time doing this task.
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Re: Early flywheel removal question
Thanks both! I’ll remove the washer and give it a go, only trial fitted at this stage so no harm done.
I very much appreciate the support on this forum!
I very much appreciate the support on this forum!
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- 1275 Cooper S
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Re: Early flywheel removal question
As the advice given .. with that washer removed i refit the crank bolt so the puller has something to push onto ..apply the pressure with a Flywheel Puller ..if it does not release no.point in stripping any Puller threads ..so keep puller in position & then through the starter motor hole give the rear of Flywheel a good "wack" with a Drift & Lump Hammer.
i use a copper drift but a solid hardwood block would possibly do the job just as well.
The refitted crank bolt also helps catch the Flywheel as it can come off with considerable energy & can fly across the floor if not restrained
i use a copper drift but a solid hardwood block would possibly do the job just as well.
The refitted crank bolt also helps catch the Flywheel as it can come off with considerable energy & can fly across the floor if not restrained
- woodypup59
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Re: Early flywheel removal question
I was advised years ago to set the crank so that all pistons are halfway in their bore. This means the C washer is horizontal and can't drop if its been put in the wrong way up.
If by chance some twerp has put the C washer in at BDC on #1 rather than TDC , the C washer can drop and jam in the flywheel.
I don't know how likely this is, but I guess someone has had that problem and had to cut the flywheel off .......
If by chance some twerp has put the C washer in at BDC on #1 rather than TDC , the C washer can drop and jam in the flywheel.
I don't know how likely this is, but I guess someone has had that problem and had to cut the flywheel off .......
- BAD942B
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Re: Early flywheel removal question
Instead of giving the flywheel a whack, keep the tension on the flywheel, get a kettle full of hot water & pour it over the flywheel, might need to do it twice.
You could use a hot air gun for 20 or 30 seconds only.
NEVER use a gas torch & heat it up as its easy to lose control & get it stuck even more firmly.
You could use a hot air gun for 20 or 30 seconds only.
NEVER use a gas torch & heat it up as its easy to lose control & get it stuck even more firmly.
Chris A