Pulley Bolt

[NZmember]

Which one is correct for a 1071 engine. Left or right or doesn't matter?
Thanks

[Peter Laidler]

I don't know the answer but it looks to me as though the locating shoulder below the thread on the LEFT hand one has been ground or cut or just worn away by being used wrongly or with a different pulley. While the right hand one, with the complete locating shoulder looks dead right.

Only my opinion mind you
added a bit later: If the left bolt locating shoulder is knackered, it's an easy fix. Just machine the shoulder away, make a new one to the exact size you need and slide it on.

[CooperTune]

I have a fair collection of front pulley bolts. They come with almost no shoulder to much deeper shoulders. I suspect you will be using a two pc pulley/balancer. If you have the crank torqued into block. The front plate gasket and plate, space crank sprocket shimmed to align with cam sprocket. The crank sprocket oil slinger in place, and the crank bolt loc tab on bolt. Measure the distance between pully face and the crank snout. Compare to shoulder depth. You do not want the shoulder to bottom out before securing the balancer assembly. Steve (CTR)

[Exminiman]

As they both said, you do not want the shoulder to bottom out first.

They apparently stretch, might be worth investing in a new one both MED and KAD do uprated ones.

Probably a better idea to ditch the lock washer and use some thread lock.

[NZmember]

Thanks for the measurement suggestion.
Found out some info. Someone kindly put one of the 12A283 on Ebay. The gap from the pulley to crank is 4.3mm. The sholder on the bolt is 2.6mm so either fit ok. The yellow one is off an 67 Elf engine and the parts booklet give that as Aea312. The earlier engines used the other one which is 12A283. Probably changed in April 1965 when the oil flinger and timing cover changed.