Fitting the C post vinyl.
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Fitting the C post vinyl.
Does any one have any tips about the best way of going about fitting the C post vinyl (without destroying it in the process)?
My initial attempt has left me with more questions than answers.
I have a replacement vinyl panel, but all the other panels they provided have fit like a glove.
The vinyl panel itself appears to be larger than the space it has to fill but when it's molded into the curve of the post I'm sure it will fit.
I'm assuming the front and rear "vertical" edges of the panel fit behind the rear windscreen and side window rubbers?
Is my mistake that I've fitted the rear windscreen before trying to fit the panel?
Any hints and tips gratefully received!
G.
My initial attempt has left me with more questions than answers.
I have a replacement vinyl panel, but all the other panels they provided have fit like a glove.
The vinyl panel itself appears to be larger than the space it has to fill but when it's molded into the curve of the post I'm sure it will fit.
I'm assuming the front and rear "vertical" edges of the panel fit behind the rear windscreen and side window rubbers?
Is my mistake that I've fitted the rear windscreen before trying to fit the panel?
Any hints and tips gratefully received!
G.
- Peter Laidler
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Re: Fitting the C post vinyl.
I am about to embark on the same process. The rear edge of the side window rubber seals is easily rolled clear. Some people have fitted the panels without removing the rear screen rubber. I'm not so sure........ But I think that I will try by removing the filler strip on a hot day so that the rubber is relatively soft and pliable*. That way, by using a plastic scraper you might be able to lift the now softened rubber sufficient to slide the edge of the new trim panel underneath it. A bit of KY gel along the rear edge might help it to slip into place.......
Don't forget that you'll also need to take the back seat upright out and remove the rear parcel shelf trim panel too.
I ain't looking forwards to it either!
(* pull filler strip out, face rear of car to the sun and cover screen and rubber with a couple of black bin bags so that it absorbs all the heat)
Don't forget that you'll also need to take the back seat upright out and remove the rear parcel shelf trim panel too.
I ain't looking forwards to it either!
(* pull filler strip out, face rear of car to the sun and cover screen and rubber with a couple of black bin bags so that it absorbs all the heat)
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Re: Fitting the C post vinyl.
Thanks for your input Peter,
KY is a good shout and not one I'd thought of.
Does the stiffener on the outside of the rear screen rubber have much effect on the interior part of the rubber?
I'd thought of using the wife's hairdryer to soften the internal rear screen rubber and using nylon pry bars to lift the edge.
I suspect that it'll be a 2 man job and it could get quite "close and intimate" with 2 of us in such a confined space, then again maybe one of could operate through the side window space.
We'll give it a go on Saturday morning and I'll report back.
Thanks again for your input, G.
KY is a good shout and not one I'd thought of.
Does the stiffener on the outside of the rear screen rubber have much effect on the interior part of the rubber?
I'd thought of using the wife's hairdryer to soften the internal rear screen rubber and using nylon pry bars to lift the edge.
I suspect that it'll be a 2 man job and it could get quite "close and intimate" with 2 of us in such a confined space, then again maybe one of could operate through the side window space.
We'll give it a go on Saturday morning and I'll report back.
Thanks again for your input, G.
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Re: Fitting the C post vinyl.
The stiffener (fillet strip) will have an effect on the interior rubber to an extent.... as it expands the outer two edges which in turn will cause the inner edges to be pulled onto the metalwork a little harder.Chapmag wrote: ↑Tue Jan 02, 2024 7:00 pm Thanks for your input Peter,
KY is a good shout and not one I'd thought of.
Does the stiffener on the outside of the rear screen rubber have much effect on the interior part of the rubber?
I'd thought of using the wife's hairdryer to soften the internal rear screen rubber and using nylon pry bars to lift the edge.
I suspect that it'll be a 2 man job and it could get quite "close and intimate" with 2 of us in such a confined space, then again maybe one of could operate through the side window space.
We'll give it a go on Saturday morning and I'll report back.
Thanks again for your input, G.
I'd be really quite tempted to just remove the rear screen and do the job once and once only. With the screen out the trim can be correctly positioned, the parcel shelf is fully accessible and there's probably less likelihood of a slip with a tool shattering the rear window. They aren't that hard to remove and refit....
If that's not your idea of fun then another good lubricant that is less likely to cause blushes when purchased is washing up liquid. It really works well on the rubber but don't get the two otherwise mixed up
1965 SDL. 1 prev keeper & matching numbers
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Re: Fitting the C post vinyl.
Agree with Peter take out the rear window locking strip + parcel shelf panel & the both the rear side window seals as that vertical Trim has to also fit under the inner rear side window to body shell seal. you do not mention the strip of vinyl that glues in position under the rear window .. so dont forget if not already fitted .. as this central lower trim strip glues up & over the body flange under the rear screen ..well it has in mk1 cars that i have past striped out & in this situation the rear screen needs to be out .. whatever fighting screen rubbers is not a job for a cold day .. but each to there own.
ps i use Silicone Grease whenever fitting Screens
ps i use Silicone Grease whenever fitting Screens
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Re: Fitting the C post vinyl.
I made the same error and tried everything I could to get the panels in without removing the rear window.
I curved a wide plastic spatula to the shape and tried on very hot South Australian days.
In the end I resorted to removing the rear window and doing it the correct way.
I did have to trim the panels to fit after lifting the vinyl and reglueing it.
Now I'm struggling with the seal for the rear opening quarter window, Drivers side is fitted but the passenger side is not cooperating. the card is a bit too thick for the slot in the seal, but it can be rolled on, with patience. I used two screws with washers each side where the hinge screws in to stop the panels moving as I manipulated the quarter window seals. I'm was petrified they'd come out from under the rear window seals.
Good luck Stewart
I curved a wide plastic spatula to the shape and tried on very hot South Australian days.
In the end I resorted to removing the rear window and doing it the correct way.
I did have to trim the panels to fit after lifting the vinyl and reglueing it.
Now I'm struggling with the seal for the rear opening quarter window, Drivers side is fitted but the passenger side is not cooperating. the card is a bit too thick for the slot in the seal, but it can be rolled on, with patience. I used two screws with washers each side where the hinge screws in to stop the panels moving as I manipulated the quarter window seals. I'm was petrified they'd come out from under the rear window seals.
Good luck Stewart
Experience is what you have immediately after you need it.
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Re: Fitting the C post vinyl.
OK, so I failed at my first attempt and decided to wait for warmer weather.
Then I got thinking about when I took the C post vinyl out (13 years ago) and I seem to remember it was just a piece of headlining material with no backing.
The one I'm trying to re-fit has a 1/8 inch card glued and stitched to the back.
Can anyone confirm if my recollection is correct and also whether there was any sound deadening material fitted to the C post prior to fitting the roof lining material?
Thanks in anticipation, G.
P.S. Talk about one step forward and two steps back my floor starter button burnt out at the weekend!! It was the original from 1960!!!!
Then I got thinking about when I took the C post vinyl out (13 years ago) and I seem to remember it was just a piece of headlining material with no backing.
The one I'm trying to re-fit has a 1/8 inch card glued and stitched to the back.
Can anyone confirm if my recollection is correct and also whether there was any sound deadening material fitted to the C post prior to fitting the roof lining material?
Thanks in anticipation, G.
P.S. Talk about one step forward and two steps back my floor starter button burnt out at the weekend!! It was the original from 1960!!!!
Last edited by Chapmag on Wed Jan 10, 2024 9:33 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- Peter Laidler
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Re: Fitting the C post vinyl.
I've got two new old stock Mk2 C post trims. No sound deadening on the rear. But now you mention it, I might fit some. It's definately a summer job....
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- Peter Laidler
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Re: Fitting the C post vinyl.
It is backed by a VERY absorbent fibre board. I have found that after it's been wet, it never regains its flatness even when comprerssed between two boards.
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