Part 1
WARNING: Don't try this at home folks !
In putting this short submission together, it occurred to me early on that's it's not really possible in a few pages to cover the whole story here. When did the trip start for example ? It may appear that it started at the very end of July 2023, however as a personal journey for me, the story dates back to 1974 when I was mesmerised but looking through an atlas for the first time. The Moke Club's crossing in 1983 only fuelled my dream and of course, crossing the way it should be - by Moke. Spurred on by reading of the Club's adventure in the pages of Woman's Day, I awaited for my chance to meet up with Club Members for the first time at the Christmas Party in December of that same year, and hopefully hearing from them of the trials and tribulations from their historic crossing - the first and until our crossing here - the only successful crossing of the Desert by Moke, though, there'd been several attempts before, dating back to 1970 and many since, including an attempt by our crew in 2016.
While our crew, The Desert Rats, was made up of Club Members, Jack Mavromatis, Paul Marrano, our UK member Roger Glover, with his son Rich and myself, there were quite a few people who helped in no small part make this all happen. After a trip to Birdsville in 2014, culminating with the first time that a Moke made it to the top of Big Red (largest sand dune of the Simpson, right on the 'doorstep' of Birdsville), I had some discussions with our life members Alan Rayner, Greg Rinder and Bernie Zarcinas, who all took part in the 1983 crossing in regards to doing another crossing. It all started with a "no way, forget it" which over a few months turned around to a "you know, it might still just be possible",,,,, dangerous words !
To give some perspective here, the Simpson Desert is the largest Sand Ridge Desert in the world. Despite it's usually low recept of rains, it is a 'living' desert, in that there is always some flora and fauna, for which I'm pleased for. I think many folk who haven't experienced the Desert first hand, upon mentioning it, immediately think of endless baron sand dunes, Lawrence of Arabia style. The Simpson is far from that.
Map giving approximate size representations of Australia, the Simpson Desert and England.
While the Desert is made up of over 1100 sand dunes, between these dunes there are clay pans, which in themselves can be a blessing or a curse if there's been recent rains. The Desert also boasts a Gum Tree, claimed just as one, yes, but a gum tree all the same, though, we did find others. This one gum known as The Lone Gum. The Desert covers an area of around 175,000 square km. England only has an area of 130,000 sqkm. Desert population is zero, yet England has over 55 million, it must be standing room only !
Following our rained out 2016 attempt, we planned again for 2018, that was flooded again. Then 2019, flooded yet again, then 2020 flooded as well as Covid hitting us all. 2021, Covid again. 2022 when it was too 'iffy' in regards to flooding, though that didn't happen, there was persistent rain. Would 2023 be our year ? 40 Years since the last successful crossing ? Some of our Crew had changed since planning started, however for some crazy reason that well escapes me, Roger stuck with me on this.
Originally, our long planned crossing was to take us from Mount Dare on the Western side to the Birdsville Track on the Eastern side along a similar route to that taken by the Moke Club in 1983. Most of this route had been Moked before, it was known and well entrenched in Roger's and my minds, we both knew it so well that we felt we wouldn't need to refer to a map. Well,,, that all turned on it's head when about 6 weeks prior to setting off, rains that fell some months earlier to the North had filtered their way down through one of the few creeks in the Desert, went in to flood, cutting off our exit less than 10 km from the Birdsville Track. It was clear it wouldn't be down and dry in time for our August crossing. Do we call it off yet again ? It was to be this year or never - cross or bust as they say ! Following a review and discussion between Roger and Greg, we felt we could be cheeky enough to consider a little used track that exits the Desert to the North,,, a long LONG way to the North. Jack and Paul didn't seem to mind the desert extension. When I looked at the map, seriously considering if this was an option, I have to say, I had a long quite 'moment', I still do even after the fact. Would this be possible ? After a change of underwear, I crunched the numbers, that only sent a cold shiver, but in terms of distance, it was in our grasp - just ! This new exit to the North took our total Desert section from 350 km-ish to just over 1000 km - tripling the distance and the time that we'd be between not just fuel fills, but other supplies - water and food. Could we cram in the additional items ? A quick think about it all, especially when reflecting on the Club's Canning Stock Route Trip of 1987 suggested we could, we'd just have to ! I swallowed hard on that, late changes never sit well with me.
Meeting up at Burra where the trip would officially start from, Greg Rinder together with his wife Rosalie, Doug Munn, with his friends Sandy and Terry in tow, along with others who'd been looking on with great interest, or perhaps be the last time that they'd see us, also met up with us for a send off dinner.
The following day, we bumped in to Colin and Barb Francis, who were on their way back home after a week away with their neighbours. It was a wonderful chance meeting. They'd just come from our next destination - Farina.
A chance roadside meeting with club members, Barb and Col Francis.
The Farina Bakery had closed a week earlier, though I have to say, I'm happy for that as it also meant missing the crowds that come with it. At Farina we met up with the 4WD spectators who wanted to come along for the journey and to witness some crazy people out in the desert. Among them was none other than Alan Rayner, who volunteered at the earliest days of planning to make a video of the crossing, with our very own Chris Jonas riding shot gun. Before we arrived, Alan had made it clear to the 4WD crew that they were not to assist us, that they were all just 'going along for the ride'. On catching up with Alan, he seemed more excited than us. He'd also kindly marked out a 'Moke Only' parking area for us in advance of our arrival.
Departing Farina the next day soon saw us on the Oodnadatta Track to William Creek, where we made a left turn for the Opal Fields of Coober Pedy for a couple of days. We did a couple of tours, one through the Old Time Mining Museum, which I highly recommend and the other was through Riba's where we were staying, also highly recommended.
Underground Opal Mine Tour at Riba's. Our Guide seemed highly experienced and knowledgeable on many aspects of Opal Mining.
We returned to William Creek and continue the track to Algebuckina Bridge, after climbing all over it, we made camp for the evening on the banks of the Neales River, well known to the Moke Club since the 1976 Ayres Rock trip, when it was flooded to the extent that the only vehicles to cross that year were the 12 Mokes of the Club's, the 4WDers after waiting some weeks had no choice but to turn back.
Some of the crew getting the Mokes across the Neales on their way to Ayres Rock in 1976
Driving up the flatness of the Oodnadatta Track for many hours, then dipping down below the surrounding countryside to the Neales, the sight of this massive structure out here never fails to impress.
2023 Desert Rats in front of the dominating Algebuckina Bridge
There is a rumour that has been circulating regarding the Algebuckina Bridge that it had originally been ordered as the original Murray Bridge, but when it arrived from Scotland, but at 587 metres, was found to be too short. Great yarn, but that can be assigned to the rumour bin. It sure is an impressive structure, especially in this stetting. Even more impressive is thinking about how it would have been transported and built in place in the 1890's.
The Desert Rats lined up at Algebuckina Bridge
Leaving the Neales soon saw us in Oodnadatta, where I was able to pick up a pair of thongs, having left my usually travelling pair at home in the rush to get out of dodge. It would also be our last contact with the outside world until we likely reached Boulia, in outback Queensland, about 2 weeks away - if we get that far !
Desert Rats outside the Pink Roadhouse
Just to the North of Oodnadatta is a favourite and I feel quite significant stopping post. I'm sure most travellers just see it as a stick in the ground as they drive past, but this 'stick', originally planted around August 1872 has a far reaching significance in modern Australia today.
The 'Stick' in the ground - the start of modern Australia. Angle Pole.
While not the original 'stick', this is the site of one of the poles that formed the Overland Telegraph that ran from Cable Beach in the NT to Adelaide, linking for the first time, Australia to the rest of the world by telegraph. This particular one is known as Angle Pole, being the previous name of the township of Oodnadatta. It was part of the start of today's Telecommunications and Internet for Australia.
.. also how did that Moke Water Crossing go re the Engines?
