ACS 65C - Mk 1 Cooper S

[richardACS]

They had the pads originally but I don't think many people fit them these days?? Rust traps I'd imagine?

I fitted the rack after the brake and fuel lines (dry car), and used thin wall rubber protectors here and there. Somerford sell these for example:

https://www.somerfordmini.co.uk/sleeve- ... protection

Can't comment on the hydro I'm afraid as it rarely stayed on our cars.

Crabbing was rather common wasn't it? Back in the day we used shims as a remedy, probably because our cars were bent after our harsh use on rally and such like.

Thank you Andy....

[mk1]

An alternative to not fitting the felt pads to the top of the rear frame is to COMPLETELY soak the pads in Waxoyle before fitting this will discourage the formation of rust. I did this on the Speedwell car & it seemed to work OK.

[Peter Laidler]

GREAT read again, from start to finish.

I seem to recalll that the pads used to isolate the rear sub frame from the boot floor were made of that cheapo loose upholstery matting. Sopping up water and other moisture from day 1! Personally, I'd leave it out - with an air gap inbetween the floor and subframe. But certainly, leave whatever you use in waxoyl for 24 hrs. Or what about suitable thickness neoprene sheet material.

Beaulieu this year Richard?

[Rubber Sprung]

On the late Sportpack minis they used robber pads to ensure the subframe didn't contact the boot floor .

[richardACS]

Thanks for the ideas here - so would I be correct in believing it was only the rear subframe that had the pad?

Nothing on the front?

Is it likely then that the reason behind putting it there was to stop the boot panel from 'thrumming/vibrating'?

In what position would the section of felt be placed?

[mk1]

I am sure there was also some felt stuffed down the back of the front subframe, too, but can't think exactly where is was off hand.

The felt went on the top of the wide flat sections of the rear subframe, between that & the boot floor.

[1071bob]

Thanks for the ideas here - so would I be correct in believing it was only the rear subframe that had the pad?

Nothing on the front?

Is it likely then that the reason behind putting it there was to stop the boot panel from 'thrumming/vibrating'?

In what position would the section of felt be placed?

It's positioned where all the rust is !

[mk1]

Perfect description as always Bob!

[Peter Laidler]

Interesting point there though Rich re the front sub frame. I mounted the rear of the front sub frame with a 3mm thick layer of neoprene sheet between the sub frame and the body. No particular reason in mind - except I had a garden size sheet left over from a waterproofing project at work! Whether it did any good or not, I can't say. But it was still intact when I lowered the sub frame to rebuild the steering rack a couple of years ago. But I do know that it didn't do any harm

[richardACS]

Perfect description as always Bob!

Does seem crazy for sure to apply this but the waxoyled soaked felt pad should negate the issue...

[Peter Laidler]

The large removal companies still use this low grade/low density horsehair matting to protect stuff.

[richardACS]

Interesting Peter - might be less water retentive

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152007031053?

[richardACS]

https://www.frost.co.uk/por15-car-bike- ... ler-473ml/

I purchased the above kit to seal the two tanks, both tanks condition are very sound but have been empty since 1981 with a fine rusting to the surface, the degreaser once diluted only filled 1/2 a tank and one is meant to slosh it around every two hours, but with the opening quite difficult to seal it didn't worked out as a practical or effective operation.

I therefore filled both tanks to the brim using white vinegar (I happened to have 12 gallons around) and have left them for a few days, this has done a good job in cleaning up the surface. Now I wonder whether it is worth sealing them on the basis that all oe tanks have no surface protection?

I will use E5 fuel once up and running but if that becomes NLA in the near future then perhaps an internal skin such as POR 15 might be a good move - would welcome others thoughts on this

[MiNiKiN]

https://www.frost.co.uk/por15-car-bike- ... ler-473ml/

I purchased the above kit to seal the two tanks, both tanks condition are very sound but have been empty since 1981 with a fine rusting to the surface, the degreaser once diluted only filled 1/2 a tank and one is meant to slosh it around every two hours, but with the opening quite difficult to seal it didn't worked out as a practical or effective operation.

I therefore filled both tanks to the brim using white vinegar (I happened to have 12 gallons around) and have left them for a few days, this has done a good job in cleaning up the surface. Now I wonder whether it is worth sealing them on the basis that all oe tanks have no surface protection?

I will use E5 fuel once up and running but if that becomes NLA in the near future then perhaps an internal skin such as POR 15 might be a good move - would welcome others thoughts on this

If the tank isn't leaking, I would stay well clear of the tank sealers. If anything in the application goes wrong, you have some real trouble, with flakes of the stuff in your fuel supply.

Why not add a few drops of 2-stroke oil for corrosion protection?!
And if you store the car for longer than 2-3 months, just make sure to either use fuel stabiliser or better drain the tank (be it E5 or E10, both are not famous for longevity)

[Peter Laidler]

I'd question your opinion of E5 and 10 Minikin. I started my S on Saturday after a 6 month lay-up with half a tank of E5 in the tank. Didn't start first turn of the key. So I removed the plugs, re-gapped them, warmed them up with a burner, replaced them and next turn of the key it burst into life. Like Minikin says, stay away from tank sealers if it ain't leaking. If here are pin holes, just solder them up.

[mk1]

My experience of modern fuel is the same as MiniKin, they all tend to degrade very quickly & it is rare to get anything that lasts useably for more than a month or two.

I don't doubt that your experience is different Peter, but it is not a common one.

Just Google "life expectancy of E10 fuel" even the manufacturers claim a life expectancy of 1 month for E10.

[Peter Laidler]

I'll put the good starting after a long lay-up down to beginners luck. Had the same beginners luck today too, with my Rover Cooper sport.

[Andrew1967]

Generally I just add half a gallon of fresh E5 to the E5 put in months ago as a little livener and the Minis start with little effort .. except my 998 Cooper that has ALWAYS been a bastard to start after being left.

[MiNiKiN]

I'd question your opinion of E5 and 10 Minikin. I started my S on Saturday after a 6 month lay-up with half a tank of E5 in the tank. Didn't start first turn of the key. So I removed the plugs, re-gapped them, warmed them up with a burner, replaced them and next turn of the key it burst into life. Like Minikin says, stay away from tank sealers if it ain't leaking. If here are pin holes, just solder them up.

The volatile contents of E5 and E10 have a tendency to evaporate over time. These are the ingredients that provide the ignitibility. Hence your car struggled to start.

Another issue with these fuels is the fact that ethanol is hygroscopic and i.e. "sucking up water" and therefore promoting internal rot.

[woodypup59]

How do you stop these tank sealers from blocking the little plastic filter on the pickup pipe ?