1967 Austin Cooper 998

[12345678]

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[Fanfaniracing]

Reminds me my 998 Cooper Engine!

Just honed it, mesured everything, new bearings, new Piston Rings, SW5, rebuild the head and the engine still runs after 16 years and 50'000km.

Just need to work clean!

[Oneball]

Are you asking why no 2 inlet valve is less oily? I’d say that there less oil getting into no 2 so it’s burning cleaner. The whole cylinder looks cleaner.

[12345678]

Are you asking why no 2 inlet valve is less oily? I’d say that there less oil getting into no 2 so it’s burning cleaner. The whole cylinder looks cleaner.

Yeah that’s kinda what I was thinking. The rest look overly oily which I guess is better than not oily enough! The crank seal was pouring oil (think the antiques collector drove it sparingly after the seals dried up and addressed it with more oil - see how gross the timing side of the engine is)

[12345678]

Got the flywheel housing off today. Lots of black dust in the housing but the wear on everything looks decent. The idler gear looks like the only thing that is 55 year worn vs everything else. What do you think?

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[12345678]

More tear down…tappet wear seems weird. This normal? Didn’t take a picture of the camshaft but a couple lobes have small nicks.

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[Costafortune]

Knackered but normal. The cam/followers are the highest stressed parts of any engine.

You may get away with reusing the cam but tbh, I'd be putting something slightly more tasty in there anyway - a 270 degree cam for example. Just adds a bit of pep without spoiling it.

[12345678]

Got everything else torn apart today. Pretty happy with the minimal wear outside of the bearing on the 4th cylinder piston. Seems like it may have spun? Close up of the crank on that piston. Any thoughts?

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[iain1967s]

Is that galling on the #4 big end, or is it just pickup from a failed bearing shell?

Get a razor blade and try to scrape at it, see if it comes off to leave a clean journal surface or not.

But if it’s pitted you’ll need to get it cleaned up professionally with a linishing bow, or re-ground if the pits are deeper.

[snoopy64]

The backs of the bearing shells will tell you if they have spun….they look very thin in the photos

[12345678]

The backs of the bearing shells will tell you if they have spun….they look very thin in the photos

What would I be looking for on the backs? It’s only this one…others look good

[Costafortune]

That shell has spun so that con rod is scrap and maybe the crank as well if it's gone out of shape. It was caused by oil starvation, i.e going around a roundabout with the oil level too low.

Here's a nice looking crank:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/125571666020 ... qoQAvD_BwE

[timmy201]

If there’s no “tang” left on the bearing shell it’s a pretty good indicator that it’s spun the bearing

[12345678]

Any ideas on how to remove this block heater or just let the machine shop do it?

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[MiNiKiN]

Any ideas on how to remove this block heater or just let the machine shop do it?
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That is an intriguing thing. Is this to preheat the coolant, so you can start your trip with a heated car? Will you show us the item once removed, pls.

[MiNiKiN]

If the crank is otherwise straight you could have its bearing surface metal sprayed (e.g. w/ molybdenum) and then reground to standard size.

https://youtu.be/W7wJZTK8ec8

[Craig]

That’s a block Heater in place of the frost plug.
Seen lots here in western canada. In fact , most new vehicles come with them from the factory.
Plug your block heater in overnight to prevent the coolant from freezing , and to aid with start up when the temp is low..
Easy to remove , undo the screw a few turns and tap it in . There’s a cross plate behind to hold it in place .
Once the front is loose , lever it out. It could be a little stuck as there’s an “ O Ring” to seal the brass part to the block
Easy Peazy….

Craig

[12345678]

That’s a block Heater in place of the frost plug.
Seen lots here in western canada. In fact , most new vehicles come with them from the factory.
Plug your block heater in overnight to prevent the coolant from freezing , and to aid with start up when the temp is low..
Easy to remove , undo the screw a few turns and tap it in . There’s a cross plate behind to hold it in place .
Once the front is loose , lever it out. It could be a little stuck as there’s an “ O Ring” to seal the brass part to the block
Easy Peazy….

Craig

Thanks! I’ll try that as I assumed I needed to remove the screw completely. But that makes sense.