Cooper stainless trim fixings on doors

[AndyPen]

I seem to have a two options for the lower clips, and the top set for over the window frame are the correct type and number for my car (a 64 S).

Before I go trying to fit these, are there any observations or perhaps recommendations anyone? The black lower clips (mini spares I think) looks thin when compared to the other ones I found somewhere online. Possibly via a recommendation on here? Would the silver ones cause problems when fitting the window channels perhaps?

Plus I am not all that sure if the top ones are as wide as my originals?

Probably just being too cautious, but when expertise like the forum members is on hand - thought it worth checking

two clip options.jpeg

frame clips.jpg

[mab01uk]

This thread linked below might help for the recommended top trim rivet clips.
(I think the Minispares rivet clips only work with their reproduction door trims)
Clips for chrome door trim:-
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=34149

[Daz1968]

I had issues with upper ones and I drilled them out and reused the outer part by using a small rivet to attach to door frame.

[Polarsilver]

I try to save & re-use the original cups .. also use some tiger seal to bond as in my case(s) there is some age related distortion in the stainless trim from being a 100% flat fit on the front top corners.

[whitewithblackroof]

I would use the black clips, I had some silver ones like that and have no spring to them and split straight away

[Simon776]

The Mini Spares drawing is incorrect - at least for Mk 1 and Mk 2 Cooper and S - fixings 8 and 9 should also be the slide over type

[AndyPen]

Thanks for all the speedy thoughts and the previous link Mab

I think I got the upper clip set off ebay, with the right number and type Simon, so fingers crossed I'll try a couple as have spares. Yes you are of course right, it is three of those lined up.

Here's my old door before I drilled them, complete with blue and red paint elements - because we never took the trims off to repaint the doors, it's still OEW behind them Too nervous to remove them at the time I think - or just in too much of a rush. Whatever, a superb 'original 64 OEW reference that came in very handy when sorting paint. Perhaps the comparison to the wheel colour, also based on matching an old wheel, will be of interest too?

To refit, as it has been soooooo long since they were removed, I think you slide the trim down these three and catch the front one as well, then pop the rest on over the popper type? I also seem to recall filing the bottom of the trim itself ever so slightly to remove the usual sharpness and make then easier to slide on???

Am I right is is my brain cell forgetting something? I have vague recollections of fitting one and scraping the paint off before doing that?

rear door clips.jpeg

[Nick W]

I've just finished fitting a nos set of stainless trims, and used Mini Spares fixings with no issues. The lower trim clips look like the black ones you have, MS used to sell the silver ones but they were very poor when I tried to use them a while back

[AndyPen]

I've just finished fitting a nos set of stainless trims, and used Mini Spares fixings with no issues. The lower trim clips look like the black ones you have, MS used to sell the silver ones but they were very poor when I tried to use them a while back

Looking good there Nick

Spent the day tidying up and measuring the hole positions for the 'one day' scenario. One thing that surprised me is how this and another door I have, seem to have the lower fixings offset from centre, they all seem ever so fractionally inboard compared the others, which are in the middle of the frame.

You can see it in my pic if you look closely.

[Nick W]

One thing to note , is that these trims should fit original doors ok, but if the doors have been reshaped to the door frame or if it's a heritage door then they will need some work to fit nice.
Put the lower trim in place with its clips and hold the top trim in place and see how it fits, it's often necessary to file the bottoms of the trim down a little to get an even fit round the frame. Also it may be that the holes might need a slight offset to even the fit where it meets the lower trim.
Make sure you use a small spacer over the rivets, if you don't the tip of the rivet gun will not meet up with the rivet, as it hits the edge of the button leaving the rivet loose, I use the the screw on cap off a spark plug for this.
Last thing I noticed was the MS rivets although adequate, they don't pull down very flat at the back, which can interfere with the window being tight as the rivet pushes on the channel, I just clipped a bit off the back, which I checked didn't compromise its strength, but you could also change the rivet for one that pulls flatter..

Nick

[AndyPen]

One thing to note , is that these trims should fit original doors ok, but if the doors have been reshaped to the door frame or if it's a heritage door then they will need some work to fit nice.
Put the lower trim in place with its clips and hold the top trim in place and see how it fits, it's often necessary to file the bottoms of the trim down a little to get an even fit round the frame. Also it may be that the holes might need a slight offset to even the fit where it meets the lower trim.
Make sure you use a small spacer over the rivets, if you don't the tip of the rivet gun will not meet up with the rivet, as it hits the edge of the button leaving the rivet loose, I use the the screw on cap off a spark plug for this.
Last thing I noticed was the MS rivets although adequate, they don't pull down very flat at the back, which can interfere with the window being tight as the rivet pushes on the channel, I just clipped a bit off the back, which I checked didn't compromise its strength, but you could also change the rivet for one that pulls flatter..

Nick

Thanks Nick, that is all very helpful indeed. The car did have a bang (or more than one) on the passenger front so I'll take special car, just in case.

The bottoms of these trims are very sharp, and I seem to recall we filed them not only for size, but also for easier fitment, so another good reminder. I took photos of the rivets on the inside so will see if I can find them. I know I was surprised how far in they actually protruded.

Spark plus cap is a great idea - thanks ever so much

[Nick W]

Hi Andy
Might be worth moving the holes 1/4 " so the the buttons contact with a fresh area of stainless, as the Trims can get a bit weak where they have Been popped on and off several times over its life time..
Nick

[mab01uk]

I always preferred the Innocenti stainless trims which wrap around the whole top of the door frame on Mk3 doors and were much neater and easier to fit if not worried about originality but they seem quite hard to find in the UK now.

[AndyPen]

I was scraping around the side of where I keep my old door trims and felt a packet of some kind. Yeah well dodgy

When I pulled it out and opened it there were ten of these in it - a perfect match to the originals. How lucky is that? I must have got them in the late 80s when I first ferreted that stuff away?

door clip comparison.jpg

[DUF2 ‘65 Elf]

I've just finished fitting a nos set of stainless trims, and used Mini Spares fixings with no issues. The lower trim clips look like the black ones you have, MS used to sell the silver ones but they were very poor when I tried to use them a while back

Looking good there Nick

Spent the day tidying up and measuring the hole positions for the 'one day' scenario. One thing that surprised me is how this and another door I have, seem to have the lower fixings offset from centre, they all seem ever so fractionally inboard compared the others, which are in the middle of the frame.

You can see it in my pic if you look closely.

The holes are NOT in the centre of the door frame! I have just fitted these to my Elf. When I bought the car it did not have the chrome trims.
On one door the holes were visible from the inside, just bodged over, so I knocked the bodge out from the inside and fitted the rivets into the existing holes and the trims. The other side had no holes, (the door may have been replaced at some time) so I drilled new holes in the centre of the frame. When I tried to fit the trim, it was offset on the frame! Closer inspection of the trim shows the slot for the clips is not central, so I had to remove the pop rivets and refix them, offset to allow the trim to fit in the correct location.

Now the bottom trim clips, these need to be trimmed down a little or they push the window channel tight against the glass. It is the bottom inside edge of the clip that needs trimming down, I used an electric file to grind down the clip so that it did not push the window runner away from the door edge.

[Nick W]

Well I think there supposed to be drilled pretty central as I have a nos Cooper door with original holes in, and they look central...but some cars may have had them drilled offset to fit better..who knows

[DUF2 ‘65 Elf]

The trims that I have fitted, the groove for the fixings is not central in the trim, it is offset to one side.
These are fitted to my car so I can’t take a picture. Perhaps there are slightly different trims depending on the model or year of the car?

[AndyPen]

Just checked 5 genuine doors - measured carefully and I have to say, with slight variation either way, they are all central within the frame.