Repacing front tie bar rods on 96 Rover Mini Cooper

[Snoop]

Hello,

I am going to replace the two front tie bar rods & bushes on my Cooper and I would like to know what is the best way to do this - can you do this with the car sitting in place without the need to jack the front up or do you need to jack the front wheels up off the ground? Do you also need to remove each of the front wheels as you replace each side tie bar? Any help and/or tips on how to do this would be much appreciated - cheers

[woodypup59]

It would give better access if you have the front wheels off the ground so that you can swivel the steering from side to side.

[Snoop]

Cool, thanks for the info

[Snoop]

These are the tie bar rods I would like to replace (P/N: 8G4249)

https://www.classicminispares.co.nz/sto ... single-rod

[1071 S]

Yes, you will need to raise the front wheel(s) off the ground.

To remove the tie rod you will have to push the wheel (probably more accurate to say “hub” as this will be easier with the wheel out of the way) back to release the front of the rod from the bush.

Cheers, Ian

[Snoop]

Thanks for the info

[IslandBlue]

Presuming you are talking about suspension tie rods you normally have to crack off the bottom ball joint as the bolt at the lower arm should be put in top down with the nut at the bottom, this stops the bolt falling out if the nut falls off

MS

Ha! I wanted to do this at the weekend but my ball joint splitter wouldn't fit, couldn't get the right angle of attack due to the dust shield and not enough clearance underneath to attempt a brute force whack either.

[1071 S]

With the bottom joint I find it can help to get the suspension into a more normal operating orientation.

Stick a jack under the outer bottom edge of the drive flange and jack it up until its not quite taking the weight off the axle stands...

But I don’t remember undoing the bottom ball joint to fit tie rod bushes (on a Mk I) ??? Maybe later cars are different?

Cheers, Ian

[Peter Laidler]

Island Blue, above. The disc shields serve no useful thermal, protective or other purpose other than to stop you putting your finger onto the disc when it's red hot! What they really do, and vey effectively, is to trap a stone between the shield and the disc and score a deep gouge in the disc.

You can safely remove them with no detrimental effect whatsoever

[IslandBlue]

Island Blue, above. The disc shields serve no useful thermal, protective or other purpose other than to stop you putting your finger onto the disc when it's red hot! What they really do, and vey effectively, is to trap a stone between the shield and the disc and score a deep gouge in the disc.

You can safely remove them with no detrimental effect whatsoever

Yes, I discovered this when I did the 10" wheel and brake conversion on my '89 road rally car, those are now in the recycling pile!

Have to say though that the dust shields on the Mk2 are in a sorry state, might not be much easier to persuade off than the ball joint!

[IslandBlue]

But I don’t remember undoing the bottom ball joint to fit tie rod bushes (on a Mk I) ??? Maybe later cars are different?
Cheers, Ian

Funnily enough that was my recollection from when I replaced the tie rods years ago, so was a little surprised to be confronted with this problem now! It's a Mk2 but not sure that should make any difference.

[Spider]

Island Blue, above. The disc shields serve no useful thermal, protective or other purpose other than to stop you putting your finger onto the disc when it's red hot! What they really do, and vey effectively, is to trap a stone between the shield and the disc and score a deep gouge in the disc.

You can safely remove them with no detrimental effect whatsoever

The other important thing they do is crack the mounting tabs so they can rattle, just so you know they are there and not lost.

[Peter Laidler]

You're right again Chris...... total waste of space.

But back to tie rods.... I think that you can undo the rod to lower arm bolt and wiggle them free. THEN undo the big front bolts.

I'm not quite happy about the use of different front and rear bush material on the tie rod to sub frame connection. I think that there is some fuzzy logic taking place. Remember the laws of fizziks wo' says about actions an' equal and opposite RE-actions.

[docka]

Island Blue, above. The disc shields serve no useful thermal, protective or other purpose other than to stop you putting your finger onto the disc when it's red hot! What they really do, and vey effectively, is to trap a stone between the shield and the disc and score a deep gouge in the disc.

You can safely remove them with no detrimental effect whatsoever

Interesting, think I’ll take mine off then, thanks Peter

[Snoop]

Well, I tried today to remove the bottom tie rod bolt but no luck as no enough room to get the bolt out so, I assume I will have to loosen off the ball joint bolt to split the joint to get some more roof to remove the bolt. I don't have a ball joint splitter tool so would tapping the casting help break the taper?

[IslandBlue]

Looks familiar!

[Peter Laidler]

To be honest Snoops, owning a mini, you are going to need a ball joint breaker again and again. You must get one. Whacking opposite sides of the female part of the housing MIGHT work, but you've got to whack both sides simultaneously. On the other hand, it might not. Ball-joint splitter and extended ball-joint spanner a MUST for every do-it-yourself mini owner.

[Snoop]

Thanks for the info - what size ball joint splitter is recommended for a Mini as most splitters for sale in NZ are for 19mm-38mm size ball joints, I assume this size will be fine?

https://www.repco.co.nz/en/parts-servic ... 0Separator