ACS 65C - Mk 1 Cooper S

[InnoCooperExport]

I used POR15 Chassis Black on my subframes, it's quite a hard finish but an absolute b*gger to apply properly. You have to trust it to flow out and make a good layer, try to get it on right in one go and once you brushed it on, leave it alone. Don't try to help it flow out by brushing over it again because you will only move it around rather than spread it out. If it proves to be durable it will have been worth the effort. Would I use it again? depends on what alternatives are around. I've found black Smoothrite (or Hammerite as it is all called now) to be like spraying watery coffee. Then there's Motip Rally Black, which sprays alright but I don't see it lasting on suspension parts or anything that gets any sort of crud flung at it. I suppose some sort of enamel black would be the way to go...

[Costafortune]

Single pack black gloss acrylic from a gun. Just bang it on as if you had 12 minutes to paint everything, as per factory. You can add a splash of the dulling agent but I wouldn't bother.

[swifty]

Selemix direct to bare metal ral 9005 satin mix . 50% binder . Two coats on bare metal and it will look like it’s powder coated … Ken

[kit of bits]

I agree with Ken,
I also hate POR15..
D

[richardACS]

Thanks gents - quite some options!

[richardACS]

Have just been checking out the bonnet and discovered a thin section of metal near the drop down curve but immediately behind the reinforcing plate, I don't want to resort to filler - also that the hole centres for the 'Austin Cooper' badge are incorrect - might it have come from a 'Morris Cooper' car I wonder? the badge holes therefore would need to be filled.

Me thinks a sound bonnet is required as a poor repair in this area will stand out forever.

Something tells me that the heritage panels don't match the originals in the reinforcing plates - so I'm looking for an original bonnet in rust free condition should anyone have a spare...

[Daz1968]

It’s pretty easy to weld up the holes and flush both sides, also same with a small patch in bonnet.

[richardACS]

Thank you Daz, I think I will give it a go!

[richardACS]

I'm looking for the drill size for the self tap holes in the following positions:

Front grille (Austin)

Gear lever gaiter

Gear lever 'dummy plate'

also for:

Badge holes

[mk1]

I use 3mm for all of those, apart from the badge holes which are a funny imperial size, but I can't remember what off hand.

[richardACS]

Thanks Mark (not too worry about the badge holes as I'll find that reference from the existing holes) I didn't want to over drill the self tapper holes!

[mk1]

I usually do a few test holes before committing to the car. Better safe than sorry.

[richardACS]

Good policy!

Might you know whether the former metal style of badge clips are still available (rather than the nylon tubes)?

[timmy201]

These ones?

http://www.minispares.com/product/Class ... FR108.aspx

[Peter Laidler]

Grille screw holes and gear lever gaiter holes...... Can I respectfully suggest that you simply square the existing holes off and insert those plastic nut-inserts. That's the end of metal to metal contact as they keep the grille 1mm away from the body. The plastic thinggies are invisible and readily available

[richardACS]

These ones?

http://www.minispares.com/product/Class ... FR108.aspx

Unfortunately no, they are a little two sided metal clip with a barbed end that fits into the badge holes and the badge pins are gripped in them...The common ones are now a small plastic nylon tube - (much better it has to be said for rust protection)

[richardACS]

Grille screw holes and gear lever gaiter holes...... Can I respectfully suggest that you simply square the existing holes off and insert those plastic nut-inserts. That's the end of metal to metal contact as they keep the grille 1mm away from the body. The plastic thinggies are invisible and readily available

Peter - that would be the same as for the headlamp bowls that I've just filed out?
- hopefully theres enough room below the curve of the slam panel - will check this out with the moustache and grille panel - thank you..

[AndyPen]

Test fit your moustache as best you can, ideally with a helper and a bit of tape. They are not exactly the best of designs and even the original ones on our 64's and 66 are not wonderfully lined up. If it is going to need a bit of spring to get it to fit then have a good few plastic inserts to hand as they may not hold as well.

I very rarely disagree with Peter but all our original Mk1s are rust free where the grille fixings are self tapped. As you suggest, I normally fill the holes with paint having first trial 'tapped' each screw, let it dry a bit then add some more, ideally with paint on the screw first. Magnetised screw driver makes that easy if using steel screws.

Your car and your choice of course

[Peter Laidler]

The headlamp plastic nut thinggies are a large size. The grille ones are much smaller but still a square profile. I don't have the supplier handy but SurfBlue has their details. Andy slightly disagrees - and I appreciate that - but the very nature of hard steel self tappers cutting into mild steel, acting as lathe/cutting tools as they do will break down the protective surface.

[richardACS]

The differences in opinion are what makes for a wider choice

I have used smaller plastic square fixings in other vehicles probably 5mm square (as opposed to about 7mm on the headlamp bowls) I do like the fact that the plastic heads will keep the metal grille mating edge slightly proud of the painted surface.

My cursory offering up did seem to be leaving a space between the grille and moustache to the mounting surface although there did seem to be some stretch available. I have to decide whether to purchase a new moustache or have the original plated, the grille will have to be new.

I will be taking the original moustache to the suppliers to compare new for old, and will then decide which to fit and then how to finally fix which brings us back...

Thanks gents.