Struggling to get my engine fastened in...

[tomkidd]

How do gents

I'm trying to get my engine bolted into the subframe and I can't get the mounts lined up with the holes in the subframe...

Any tips? I've been trying on my own and got one side sorted and fastened in but the other side was too high and I couldnt get it any lower... I tried smacking the mount to make it sit down in the subframe more but it won't budge.

I'm using genuine mounts with captive nuts on.

Ta

[Michael7]

This is a common problem.

First, if your mounts have captive nuts, they are probably not genuine Rover, I have never seen the nuts on other than Mini Spares' ones.

Genuine Rover mounts in recent years have a 21A1902SLP part number, the SLP meaning "service line part" or similar, and are always an aftermarket sourced part when Rover (actually X-Part) can or will no longer buy them from the original manufacturer.

As aftermarket parts, the late Rover ones are dimensionally thicker, different laminating specs, different mounting hole locations. Altogether a pain to use.

That being said, one trick I have seen to use them is to use a ratchet strap arrangement where the strap runs around the engine and subframe in a way that when the whole power unit is tightly ratcheted down into the "V" of the subframe rails, eventually they can be made to line up.

If they are the Mini Spares ones, they had a batch of incorrect thickness that would have the problem you describe, but the most recent batches have been back to a specification very close to original Rover ones and are easy to use.

[AndyB72]

I always fit the clutch one first, the one under the rad is easier to get at and has more space for adjustment. Don't do the first one up tight, this will give you a bit more play at the other end, this might not work with the captive nut type, I've never used them. Once you've got the first one in you should be able to rock the engine forwards and backwards at the rad end to get one of the holes to line up, you might have ro rock it quit far, use a screwdriver through the hole if needs be to move the mount into position. Once you've got one of the bolts in nip it up very slightly, then move the engine again to try and align the second bolt. You might need to tap it into position, tightening the mount up slightly helps here as it stops the mount springing back.

Another tip is once you've got the clutch one started you can jack that end up slightly to try and tip the rad end down. I use the none captive mounts as I always need to prod and poke at the holes in the mount to get them to align which wouldn't do the captive nut any good. I also find a beer afterwards helps.

[Tim]

I usually use captive nut ones, genuine ones with the nuts tack welded on. Its no big deal to poke a phillips head screwdriver through the holes to line them up, it doesn't damage the thread.

Tim

[commando]

Another tip i found was to loosen the engine/rad mounting bracket (the one with the two long bolts ) this normally allows just enough extra clearance ,so then its a case of using different thickness screwdrivers to get the holes lined up and bolts in and once the engine mounts are in and tight,jack up the engine then tighten up the engine/rad mounting bracket bolts .

Aaron

[AustinSuperSeven]

Try a little lubrication on the back of the mount if you can still get to it.... may just help to get it down a little more

[tomkidd]

Cheers guys, back on it on soon, I've already tried some of these suggestions but I'll try again.

[Gray]

I had the same trouble, in the end I fixed the rad side and then put a bit of waxoyl behind the clutch side mount, I found by rocking the engine I could just get the tip of a screwdriver in one of the clutch side mount holes which I worked in until it was a bit better then took the screwdriver out and swapped it for a tappered drift which got it in perfect alignment, with the drift still in place I did the same with the second hole, left overnight to let it get a feel for where it needed to be then I pulled the first drift out and got the bolt in quick before it moved, tighten this one right up and when you take the second drift out it will not move. Well thats how it worked for me!! Gray

[guru_1071]

tom

a correctly built car will always have the bolts fitted through the subframe with the nuts on the outside.

using the mounts with the nuts welded to them is the start of a slippery slope (in my opinion!)

[tomkidd]

tom

a correctly built car will always have the bolts fitted through the subframe with the nuts on the outside.

using the mounts with the nuts welded to them is the start of a slippery slope (in my opinion!)

I can soon whip off the captive nuts

[GraemeC]

Not if they're the pressed in type - the hole will be far too big then.
Be a man and get some proper engine mounts

The proper Rover ones were excellent - the engine would drop in almost too easily. Not sure what the latest ones are like but I'm sure Rich will steer you in the best direction

[tomkidd]

I've got a feeling the engine will be out again soon so I'll try with these and see what happens... cheers for the advice folks

[guru_1071]

I've got a feeling the engine will be out again soon

why, who built it?

[tomkidd]

I've got a feeling the engine will be out again soon

why, who built it?

Engine will be fine, its the gearbox I am worried about

[814CWE]

ok then
sure guru will know this,,,

minispares website is a bit confusing on engine mounts

says the expensive "oe spec" ones fit poo and the " cheapies fit better "

is this right

?????

whats the best one????????

websites are so confusing sometimes

[ricardo]

I fitted mine a few weeks ago. They are both MS mounts and had to use a screwdriver to align the holes, but it was relatively easy. The engine and subframe were not assembled on the car and that helped too.

As said before, try leaving all the screws loose until all are in place. And the trick sugested by commando is worth to try too. Loose the rad bracket a little just enough to help fitting the engine mount. Good luck!

[minicentie]

Hi,had the same trouble too.
Once you have fitted the clutch -side ,let them loose fit.
THen you can try a ratchet strap. FIt it on the clutch side prefuruble with a piec of wooth between the gearbox and strap.You need to get the strap a little under the gearbox to get an angle.Fit the other side on the engine near the radiator lower brace.
The idea is to get tension on the allready fitted enginesteady and pull the engine to the clutch side.When is under tension i step up on the engine (about 65 kilo) and give it some push with my weigth.It is good possible to do it allone ,but with someone helping to get the bolts in is far easier.You could do it other side first to and stand on the clutch side,pull on the radiator side.
Have fun

[tomkidd]

Just a bit of an update on this chaps. Avoid the captive/pressed in nut engine mounts as they are utter shite.

The whole point of me using them was to try and make it quick for removing/fitting them and they ended up taking ages to get to fit.

They scratched my newly painted subframe and in the end I had to strap down one side of the engine and put some serious pressure on the strap to get them to fit.

When the engine next comes out they are going to be cut up into a thousand pieces and given back to the stall that sold me them at the next mini show

[minicentie]

I didn't say it's easy but for me it has worked .And with a rally mini ,an engine will be taken out like you change tyres.
The strap compresses the allready fitted steady and makes just a little bit more room for the other.

[814CWE]

wtf happening in the world of mini parts?

everybody needs engine mounts

why doesnt sombody make some that fit,,as originals rather than continuing to make all this dross thats filled the market for yrs and continues to do so?