Hello
Can anyone help? I am having problems with my voltage stabilizer on my 1964 Cooper S (Positive Earth).
It was working perfectly before I took the speedo out. When I put it back together the fuel guage would only move up a quarter way with a tank full. I realised that when I take the earth wiring off the stabilizer the petrol guage works perfectly.
Cannot understand why and do not know what to do. Took stabilizer to an auto electrician who advised that it is in good working order.
Your comments would be appreciated.
Anthony Bartolo
Voltage Stabilizer
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Andrew1967
- 1275 Cooper S
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Re: Voltage Stabilizer
Hi Anthony,
I'm not sure the stabiliser has an earth wire fitted to it ?
I think there are just two or maybe three green wires that connect to it from the temperature gauge and the fuel gauge.
I'm pretty sure its just a wire in the wrong place.
I'm not sure the stabiliser has an earth wire fitted to it ?
I think there are just two or maybe three green wires that connect to it from the temperature gauge and the fuel gauge.
I'm pretty sure its just a wire in the wrong place.
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Pedromintor
- 998 Cooper
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Re: Voltage Stabilizer
it earths off the black wires from the wiring loom to the nut that holds it on its self. thanks
peter
peter
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Andrew1967
- 1275 Cooper S
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Re: Voltage Stabilizer
Yes, the instrumentation earth wire fixes to same stud on speedo housing as the stabiliser is secured to.
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iain1967s
- 1275 Cooper S
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Re: Voltage Stabilizer
With the chassis ‘earth’ wire disconnected, the stabilizer will remain permanently in the ‘closed’ position, effectively with B and I connected constantly together.
Make sure you have -12 to -14v battery voltage wire connected to the input B terminal not the output I terminal. Output I connects to the temperature and fuel gauges and will have an average of -10v as the contacts continually open and close between B and I.
With the original bi-metallic stabilizer you should see this on a test meter as -12v then 0v at the I terminal, flickering on and off several times a second.
Test by connecting body ground to the wire at the temp or fuel sender - the gauges should be able to go to full-scale deflection, assuming the wiring is good and the stabilizer is working correctly.
Solid-state -10v (positive earth) regulators are available as replacements for the original bi-metallic mechanical stabilizer and might be a cheap and easy option for diagnosis. https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/voltage-s ... 28484.html
Make sure you have -12 to -14v battery voltage wire connected to the input B terminal not the output I terminal. Output I connects to the temperature and fuel gauges and will have an average of -10v as the contacts continually open and close between B and I.
With the original bi-metallic stabilizer you should see this on a test meter as -12v then 0v at the I terminal, flickering on and off several times a second.
Test by connecting body ground to the wire at the temp or fuel sender - the gauges should be able to go to full-scale deflection, assuming the wiring is good and the stabilizer is working correctly.
Solid-state -10v (positive earth) regulators are available as replacements for the original bi-metallic mechanical stabilizer and might be a cheap and easy option for diagnosis. https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/voltage-s ... 28484.html