Removal of rear pockets
- billycooper
- 1275 Cooper S
- Posts: 1458
- Joined: Thu Jun 24, 2010 3:57 pm
- Location: Kendal, Lake District
Removal of rear pockets
I'm about to get some cage mounts welded in to my car, is it any easy option to remove the rear pockets, and if so, whats the best way of doing it ?
Mark 3 shell
Steve
Mark 3 shell
Steve
Steve "Murph"
---------------------------------------------
1960 Morris Mini-Minor 1380 KEC112
1976 Mini 1275 GT 1293 NVM265P
---------------------------------------------
1960 Morris Mini-Minor 1380 KEC112
1976 Mini 1275 GT 1293 NVM265P
- IAIN
- 1275 Cooper S
- Posts: 1090
- Joined: Thu Jun 24, 2010 3:40 pm
- Location: Scotland
Re: Removal of rear pockets
I have welded plates in the pockets but it is very hard to make a half decent job. Your ques tion made me think, if you want to keep the pockets, how about cutting a section top to bottom out to allow access to the area to be plated then you could refit the cut section by riveting or riv nut plate behind the cuts. Just an idea ?
That would save fitting new pockets if you want the original look.
That would save fitting new pockets if you want the original look.
- billycooper
- 1275 Cooper S
- Posts: 1458
- Joined: Thu Jun 24, 2010 3:57 pm
- Location: Kendal, Lake District
Re: Removal of rear pockets
That sounds like a plan, I presume the pockets are welded to the floor ?IAIN wrote:I have welded plates in the pockets but it is very hard to make a half decent job. Your ques tion made me think, if you want to keep the pockets, how about cutting a section top to bottom out to allow access to the area to be plated then you could refit the cut section by riveting or riv nut plate behind the cuts. Just an idea ?
That would save fitting new pockets if you want the original look.
i'm not that bothered about an original look
Steve "Murph"
---------------------------------------------
1960 Morris Mini-Minor 1380 KEC112
1976 Mini 1275 GT 1293 NVM265P
---------------------------------------------
1960 Morris Mini-Minor 1380 KEC112
1976 Mini 1275 GT 1293 NVM265P
- Highnumbers
- 998 Cooper
- Posts: 713
- Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2014 4:26 am
- Location: California, USA
Re: Removal of rear pockets
I have to replace both rear pockets in my car since speaker holes were cut into both, and patch-welding the holes badly distorted the thin metal of the pockets.
I have the replacement panels, but haven't started yet. Has anybody else done this (on an otherwise complete car), and was it very difficult? Plan is to drill out all the spot welds, then plug weld in the old holes, since I don't have a spot welder.
I have the replacement panels, but haven't started yet. Has anybody else done this (on an otherwise complete car), and was it very difficult? Plan is to drill out all the spot welds, then plug weld in the old holes, since I don't have a spot welder.
- rich@minispares.com
- 1275 Cooper S
- Posts: 6806
- Joined: Thu Aug 08, 2013 3:16 pm
- Been thanked: 2 times
Re: Removal of rear pockets
that's how I do it, there are also a line of spot welds up the heel board as well
-
- 1275 Cooper S
- Posts: 1501
- Joined: Mon May 11, 2015 4:16 pm
- Location: Scotland
Re: Removal of rear pockets
On early cars the sandwich of rear seat pan, parcel bin & wheel arch closing plate was spot welded together but also brazed. Getting the layers separated may be a problem as a result.
D
D
- Highnumbers
- 998 Cooper
- Posts: 713
- Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2014 4:26 am
- Location: California, USA
Re: Removal of rear pockets
Thanks for the head's up. I didn't see any brazing (not sure how early? Mine is a '66), but I'll look for it closely.Dearg1275 wrote:On early cars the sandwich of rear seat pan, parcel bin & wheel arch closing plate was spot welded together but also brazed. Getting the layers separated may be a problem as a result.
D
I suppose, if it's giving trouble, I could heat that area with a torch to open the brazing?
-
- 1275 Cooper S
- Posts: 1501
- Joined: Mon May 11, 2015 4:16 pm
- Location: Scotland
Re: Removal of rear pockets
The brazing was done from the underside to fill the seams acting like a modern seam sealer.
D
D
- IAIN
- 1275 Cooper S
- Posts: 1090
- Joined: Thu Jun 24, 2010 3:40 pm
- Location: Scotland
Re: Removal of rear pockets
I've been thinking againbillycooper wrote:That sounds like a plan, I presume the pockets are welded to the floor ?IAIN wrote:I have welded plates in the pockets but it is very hard to make a half decent job. Your ques tion made me think, if you want to keep the pockets, how about cutting a section top to bottom out to allow access to the area to be plated then you could refit the cut section by riveting or riv nut plate behind the cuts. Just an idea ?
That would save fitting new pockets if you want the original look.
i'm not that bothered about an original look
If you do cut the pocket can I suggest it would be better to leave a section of the pocket welded to the floor, say 1" up from the floor, this should give you access for welding and when you fit the cut section bck in, it will be more ridgid.
-
- 850 Super
- Posts: 114
- Joined: Sat Sep 21, 2013 12:04 pm
Re: Removal of rear pockets
A butane torch (liek the type you take camping, or use for cooking) will soften the brazing sufficiently to pry it apart, the problem is getting it back together.
The braze will have to be cleaned off before you reinstate the spot welds (or plug welds) this is the issue that stopped my last bout of madness.
The braze will have to be cleaned off before you reinstate the spot welds (or plug welds) this is the issue that stopped my last bout of madness.
- Highnumbers
- 998 Cooper
- Posts: 713
- Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2014 4:26 am
- Location: California, USA
Re: Removal of rear pockets
Highnumbers wrote:Thanks for the head's up. I didn't see any brazing (not sure how early? Mine is a '66), but I'll look for it closely.Dearg1275 wrote:On early cars the sandwich of rear seat pan, parcel bin & wheel arch closing plate was spot welded together but also brazed. Getting the layers separated may be a problem as a result.
D
I suppose, if it's giving trouble, I could heat that area with a torch to open the brazing?
Update, Dearg was spot-on.
I removed/replaced one of the rear parcel bins (took an entire Saturday!), and by far the hardest part was where the brazing of the seat pan/parcel bin/wheel arch/closing plate came together. Impossible to separate the layers, it got a bit mangled-up drilling out the spot welds, so I had some extra plug welding around the seat pan, but it all worked out. Not an easy panel to replace!