Mk1 restoration-race car to road car

[malcs_miniturbo]

hi matty great work take my hat off to ya,ive also been busy with mine keep up the good work

[nick@dunsdale]

excellant work, all that hard work is paying off

[Matty]

Thanks for the comments.

I managed to get the parcel shelf in today....worst panel so far. The main problem I have now is trying to grind back the plug weld, the only thing that I can get it there is a carbide burr on a battery drill! A painfully slow process!

The final 3 panels left are the wings and front panel. Ive got a few questions:

* Has anyone got any tips for doing this?
* Can the wings be welded to the front panel first, then all offered up together?
* Is it worth using sealant between the wings and scuttle?

Any advice would be appreciated!

[Ronnie]

For a carbide burr if it has a 6mm shank you require 22000revs(die grinder)

[Matty]

I tried my die grinder, but it hasn't got enough reach.

[Ronnie]

Can you not hire or perhaps borrow a dremmel 3mm burr or pencil grinder (60000 revs).

[Matty]

I have thought about extending onto one of my burrs, but then weighing up the time it would take, to the time it would take with the drill, it would probably be quicker with the drill. Its taken an hour to do one half of the welds, so I'll just grin and bear it I think.

The fact that I couldn't get the welding torch in close enough, or see where I was welding hasn't made the welds the best in the world. Now I think about it I should of drilled through the bulkhead and welded from the engine bay side. But even that would of been difficult as there is no easy way of clamping it in place either! It was a case of measuring, holding in place with my knees, welding torch in my left hand (im right handed), lead light in the right hand, with a seat brackets in places where they shouldn't be! lol

[IAIN]

Thanks for the comments.

The final 3 panels left are the wings and front panel. Ive got a few questions:

* Has anyone got any tips for doing this?
* Can the wings be welded to the front panel first, then all offered up together?
* Is it worth using sealant between the wings and scuttle?

Any advice would be appreciated!

I have fitted the front a couple of times pre welded. I pulled in the inner wings out the way ( in to the engine bay) bolted the front panel to the subframe,got the back edges in position, checking with the bonnet, then pushing the inner wings back out, in to position under the wings and spot weld when ready.
Seal the wing to scuttle when you are finished the metal work. Under side with seam sealor and the top seam with tiger seal or similar.

[Matty]

Your brave fitting the scuttle aswell!

I far as I can work out, the front panel and wings can only really fit in one place, and by welding it together first it is one less place for it to move about. Do you find it gives less adjustment to the rest of the panel, or is there no difference?

[IAIN]

Matty, It is still possible to move things around but if your bonnet is correct with the scuttle your wings will have to follow parallel with the bonnet sides anyway.
Fitting the wings to the front panel lets you get in to the seams for welding. It also sets the width for the bonnet at the front. It just HAS to fit.

[Matty]

Cheers Iain, that worked a treat welding the front up first.

It took about 30mins to line up the drivers side, and 4 hours to do the passenger side. It was certainly testing my patience! The gaps look good though, maybe a tad tight at the front if im honest, but its good enough for me.

I have just noticed that the gutter on the drivers side is about 10mm high where as the passenger side is only 5mm, next job will be trimming the drivers side up.

I'll try and load some pictures up.

[Matty]

Pics....

[InimiaD]

Major step forward.
Can't say I've used that method of fitting the front end before, but may well consider it on the next front I do.
Before you put any sealer in the scuttle / wing, front panel / wing joins, get some etch primer on the seams first.
My paintman gave me that advice, then I told him he can do it. If it starts to bubble within a couple of years in those areas the car will be going back to him.

[IAIN]

Well done matty. I think at the beginning you said this was your first mini rebuild but you are obviously no stranger to metal work. Your a brave man.

The front panels I used were always genuine. I think your one is a Hadrian. As you said the front bonnet gap dosen't have much room to play with, it's the same with genuine panels to.
I have seen an original unrestored car where the bonnet touches the wing on one side at the front corner, and have a small gap at the other.

It's looking good.
Lets hope it all holds together bumping down the street.

[guru_1071]

matty, either you dont have a job, or work at some rocket pace!

its gonna be mot'd next week?

[mk1]

Matty,

You are truly an inspiration!

[Matty]

Thanks for the comments!

Ive managed to sort out the doors gaps from the mess I started with!

Ive got a few days off this week to crack on with the mini. Usually I start work really early and do 4-5 hours on it after work...and go to bed exhausted.

[Matty]

How many seam clips should be used per seam finisher?

[Gray]

I believe on the parts list it is listed A/R (as required) so bearing in mind you don't want them poping off a minimum of 5, I would say per front corner with a couple extra at the back corners, or you could just use some Tiger seal to bond them on or a combination of both.

[Matty]

A small update....

Everything is etch primed up now (not in this pic), so just ALOT of sanding to go. Im hoping to get some paint on it in the next week or so.