Tips for removal of screws from the boot swing plate

[skorwxe]

Anybody on the forum have any tips for removing the six cross head screws which hold the number plate swing back plate?
I have buggered up two of the screws already without shifting them! Thanks.

[1071bob]

I had the same problem, had to drill them out in the end. Use a 4.1mm drill and run a 10/32" tap through afterwards. Picture shows what's on the other side underneath the inner skin.

[skorwxe]

I had the same problem, had to drill them out in the end. Use a 4.1mm drill and run a 10/32" tap through afterwards. Picture shows what's on the other side underneath the inner skin.

Thank you very much Bob for your quick, detailed and helpful reply which is much appreciated!
Paul

[360gts]

If you are not worried about paint etc....best way to remove any bolt/screw/nut that is rusted.............is heat. The whole reason these items get 'bonded' is the chemical reaction of moisture/salt etc.
Acetylene torch...small tip...small flame...concentrated right on the screw/nut. This causes a reaction...the metal will expand...as it cools...the bond will have broken. Now you will be able to remove the bolt/screw/nut.
This is tried and proven method of removing stubborn screws/bolts/nuts that are firmly frozen.
However, it will damage the paint...if you need to keep the original finish intact...as the above post...drill and tap.

[smithyrc30]

If you want to apply some heat to the screw only, get a 1/4 bolt and grind or file a taper on the end, then MIG weld it to the errant screw head. Be careful not to weld it to the bracket...

The heat of welding causes the screw to expand and when cooled it will come out.

Using a bolt also gives you the advantage of being able to use a spanner(wrench) on it as well.

[mk1]

I have successfully used the method described by 360

[skorwxe]

I have successfully used the method described by 360

Thanks Mark and the other guys who have posted their tips for removal of the rusted screws. As I do not want to effect the paint on the bootlid if at all possible I will go with Bob's suggestion for removal.
Thanks for being so helpful.
Paul

[970s]

Just a stupid question, what is the next larger size if prefer to drill and tap? seems common metric screw size is way too large for this hole, M7 may be? I happened to have the hole thread stripped and no helicoil is at hand.

Al

[smithyrc30]

A 10-32 screw has a major diameter of 0.19" or 4.8mm so if it is stripped out the next 'up-size' in metric would be 6mm (tapping drill 5mm) or 1/4" if you wish to keep imperial.

You might just be able to get a 0BA thread to take as the core of this is 0.1887"

7/32BSF might work as well but you would need the tap and the screws, which you would now probably only get from a gunsmith.

This is handy web page for the 'more common' threads:
https://www.britishfasteners.com/threads/unf.html

[970s]

Very detail information! thx a lot!

Al

[woodypup59]

If the screw is tight - before you ruin the head, try to tighten it more.

At worst, this way you will only burr the head in the "tighten" direction.

If it moves, you'll have broken the friction / corrosion and unscrewing it should be easier.

PS
M7 is not a common size generally but is used in motorcycling circles.