MKI vs. MKIII axle question

[mtype1931]

I'm a new member here, having just obtained a 62 MKI sans engine/transaxle. I also just bought a used 81 MKIII engine/transaxle to use as a replacement. With my amazing powers of observation, I learned that there is a significant difference in the axles and the ones supplied with my replacement engine will not work. Can anyone (or several) help with suggestions for the least expensive and/or easiest way to resolve this? Thank you.

[timmy201]

You have a few options:
The old engine and differential would have "Rubber Cruciform" driveshaft couplings and driveshafts
The later engine and differential should have "Pot Joint" driveshaft couplings and driveshafts. The driveshafts have a different spline where they meet the differential but should otherwise be the same.

The easiest/cheapest thing to do would be to buy a set of driveshafts to suit the "pot joints", these should be easy enough to find. You can swap over your existing outer CV joints.

The harder options include swapping the diff or diff output shafts with the earlier type.

This should give you an idea:
http://www.somerfordmini.co.uk/eshop/in ... page&id=49

Your next potential problem could be the gearshift lever will be in a different location to the stock lever, and you might require an extra engine steady. Do you know the casting number of the gearbox case?

[mtype1931]

You have a few options:
The old engine and differential would have "Rubber Cruciform" driveshaft couplings and driveshafts
The later engine and differential should have "Pot Joint" driveshaft couplings and driveshafts. The driveshafts have a different spline where they meet the differential but should otherwise be the same.

The easiest/cheapest thing to do would be to buy a set of driveshafts to suit the "pot joints", these should be easy enough to find. You can swap over your existing outer CV joints.

The harder options include swapping the diff or diff output shafts with the earlier type.

This should give you an idea:
http://www.somerfordmini.co.uk/eshop/in ... page&id=49

Your next potential problem could be the gearshift lever will be in a different location to the stock lever, and you might require an extra engine steady. Do you know the casting number of the gearbox case?

I have both sets of axles. But the axles for the newer (1981) trans do not have the threaded end for the castle nut that holds the front brake drum on, which is what drives the front wheels. Does anyone make an axle that fits the newer trans, but also has the threaded end? Or must I either convert to a disc brake setup or use the earlier transaxle?

I tried to attach a photo. The one on the left is the new one and the RH one is the earlier axle that my car came with.

[wantafaster1]

Re the shaft on the left, it does not need a nut, the circlip keeps it in place in its respective joint.

[timmy201]

The thread and castellated nut are on the outer cv joint, not the driveshaft. The cv joint should be able to be removed from the old driveshaft and put on the new one. Or you can buy new cv joints

[1071 S]

I think the photo above depicts the opposite ends of the drive shafts. The left hand item goes into the CV while the other one fits into the inner yoke fitting (although the nut looks too big???)

AFAIK all driveshafts are the same at the outer end.... maybe there are subtle variations for very early (pre60?) and post 80s?? When I fitted my 3.1 diff I also swapped the old (battered) Hardy Spicer uni joints for pot joints. The new(er) PJ drive shafts slotted straight into the outer S CVs.

I would just use the shafts that came with your new engine/gearbox. I'd be very surprised if these don't slot straight into your existing CVs.

Cheers, Ian