Mini and Metro rod change assemblies

[Andrew1967]

Are the rod change assemblies on Mini's and Metro's the same ?

Need one for my pick up project, can't find one here but know where a Metro one is ?

Anyone ?

Cheers

Andrew

[GraemeC]

The rods are longer on a Metro set up.

[steve65]

Minimail have used Mini ones in stock.

[Andrew1967]

Thanks for the quick replies.

That's put the kybosh on the Metro set up. Good to know where to get one if I don't locate one closer to home

Andrew

[ianh1968]

That's put the kybosh on the Metro set up. Andrew

Why? With a hacksaw and a mig-welder this would be an easy mod...

Saw the assembly off to an appropriate length and make tubes to
join up the bits... You could even do a dummy run prior to welding
by using some kind of grub-screw arrangement in the "tubes"...

You may even be able to modify the angle of the gear-lever,
within sensible limits...

I have a Mini-Marcos and have absolutely no idea what car my Dad
got the gear linkage off, all I know is that there is an extra-long
fabricated joiner "thingy" between the bottom rod and the gearbox.
(You know, the one with the sh!tty roll pins in it!)

Another thing: The roll pins - You would be surprised how much "slack"
you can remove by changing these to something more "solid"...
Using nitrided mould-ejection pins instead of roll pins results in a much
more "direct" feeling gear-change. A "second-best" would be to use
a suitable size of engineering shoulder-screw in place of the roll-pins.
Something like these:
http://www.automotioncomponents.co.uk/e ... rews/p0136
(6mm OD,25mm length, M5 thread)

You might have to change the shape of the "pan" head at the gearbox
end into a "mushroom", but I've done this before by putting the bolt in
an electric hand-drill and "turning" the head with a file...

My Dad, being a toolmaker, went for the nitrided mould-pin idea, but
me, being a mere mortal, had to settle for the shoulder screw idea.
Both concepts will noticably improve the feel of the gearchange, but
may require the (possibly expensive) boring out of the relevant parts
to an appropriate size.

Ian

[Andrew1967]

Good thinking Ian,

If I can get the correct lengths, cutting and re welding is no problem

Thanks for the ideas on upgrading the roll pins - will look into that when the time comes.

Cheers

Andrew

[ianh1968]

Thanks for the ideas on upgrading the roll pins - will look into that when the time comes.

These were was not my ideas, the mould-pin idea was my Dad's, requiring spark-eroded holes for R-Clips to retain the pins.
The shoulder screw concept was subsequent and came from another very skilled toolmaker...

Ian

[ianh1968]

PS:

The shoulder-screw idea is probably more practical as you can
quite easily buy new screws, whereas the bomb-proof mould-pin
concept would require spark-erosion of some clip holes at any
time new pins are needed... (Which would probably be never!).

Once you've bored/ground out all necessary holes to 6mm,
using shoulder screws is much easier. The ones I have used
have a 3mm internal (Allen) hex, and if they do jam up, at least
you can get a set of mole-grips on the heads to loosen them off.

... much easier that trying to whack out roll-pins...

Ian

[Spider]

That's put the kybosh on the Metro set up. Andrew

Why? With a hacksaw and a mig-welder this would be an easy mod...

Saw the assembly off to an appropriate length and make tubes to
join up the bits... You could even do a dummy run prior to welding
by using some kind of grub-screw arrangement in the "tubes"...

You may even be able to modify the angle of the gear-lever,
within sensible limits...

I have a Mini-Marcos and have absolutely no idea what car my Dad
got the gear linkage off, all I know is that there is an extra-long
fabricated joiner "thingy" between the bottom rod and the gearbox.
(You know, the one with the sh!tty roll pins in it!)

Another thing: The roll pins - You would be surprised how much "slack"
you can remove by changing these to something more "solid"...
Using nitrided mould-ejection pins instead of roll pins results in a much
more "direct" feeling gear-change. A "second-best" would be to use
a suitable size of engineering shoulder-screw in place of the roll-pins.
Something like these:
http://www.automotioncomponents.co.uk/e ... rews/p0136
(6mm OD,25mm length, M5 thread)

You might have to change the shape of the "pan" head at the gearbox
end into a "mushroom", but I've done this before by putting the bolt in
an electric hand-drill and "turning" the head with a file...

My Dad, being a toolmaker, went for the nitrided mould-pin idea, but
me, being a mere mortal, had to settle for the shoulder screw idea.
Both concepts will noticably improve the feel of the gearchange, but
may require the (possibly expensive) boring out of the relevant parts
to an appropriate size.

Ian

Nice idea with the tubes and grub screws, I like.

One thing if you do end up cutting and shutting, take lots of time to get the lower rod, with the holes for the Roll Pins, lined up as exact as you can, otherwise, the lever will be cocked over one side or the other. It only takes a small amount to be out,,,,, To help line them up, stand some drill bits (7/32") in both holes so you can sight off those. I've not had to make longer ones, but I have made shorter rods, I always drill them in the mill to get them spot on.

Ian, Bhaha, great minds,,,, When I did the 4WD Gearbox, there was room to get a Roll Pin in, but not get it out, so I got some 5.5 mm Hardened Pins (just hardened, I didn't go all out with Nitrided Pins!) and turned up a Sleeve which slipped over the coupling, to hold the pins in. The Sleeve in turn was held on to the coupling with an M4 screw. This is it before the M4 screw was added;-



So, now, (at least on this one), there's no more BASH BASH BASH to get the pins in or out, merely undo the screw, slip the sleeve back and the pin falls out, or may need help from a magnet.

One thing that does make the Roll Pins wear faster is that nearly always, there's some Oil on the shift rod (OK, some have a lot) and this only attracts the dirt right inside the coupling,,,,,,