mk1-forum.net

Is there a replaceable bush in here? seems quite a lot of movement, even for a remote/wand conversion...
if so, does anybody know the part number and what's it like to change?

2 A 3502 MSC two each. Steve (CTR)

Cheers. Are they difficult to swap out?

Isn't there a round oil seal in there too as I recall? You'll also need a new grease nipple too as the head part of the one shown has been knocked off. That could be the reason why the shaft is so loose

docka wrote:Cheers. Are they difficult to swap out?

Been a while since I last did these, but I cut a thread in the old bush and then pull them with the slide hammer.

Peter Laidler wrote:Isn't there a round oil seal in there too as I recall?

The Oil Seal is on the shaft going in to the main part of the case

Yep....., you're right as per usual Chris. I seem to recall that unless the grease nipple teat thinggy is set at the right angle, it's impossible to click a grease gun onto it, hence the fibre washer that enables you to position the nipple. And you know how frustrating it can be not being able to click onto a nipple

Peter Laidler wrote:Yep....., you're right as per usual Chris. I seem to recall that unless the grease nipple teat thinggy is set at the right angle, it's impossible to click a grease gun onto it, hence the fibre washer that enables you to position the nipple. And you know how frustrating it can be not being able to click onto a nipple

Yes, quite Peter. Originally, they didn't have any grease nipples at all !!

And if I recall the workshop manual states that these should only be greased at times of 'major overhaul'

The bushes are available from Minispares etc, but do need sizing on the ID.

they are a swine to get out as you cannot get them out with a slide hammer or a punch.

this is how I do them

drill them and tap them 5/8 unf

then screw either a allen stud in or i use the bango bolt from a oil pipe as the punch sits inside it nice

knock them out

refit the others using a stepped punch in tool (made from an old adjustable tie bar)

the standard replacements you can get shouldnt need sizing to the normal shafts, a lot of the shafts are really worn, so its possible to get undersize bushes that then need line reaming to suit, but i doubt that makes that much difference

Thanks for the advice guys, i'll give Rich's method a go...

Meanwhile, where do these bits go then?
They came with the remote/wand conversion bits from Minimail...

They go in the female knuckle and stop it ratteling

rich@minispares.com wrote:They go in the female knuckle and stop it ratteling

In the smoking pipe part?

yes

they don't all have them, I think it might have been a ado16 part, but I always fit them if I can find them as it takes a little bit of the slack out of the linkage

rich@minispares.com wrote:they are a swine to get out as you cannot get them out with a slide hammer or a punch.

Sure, they are tight, but I've never had trouble with the slide hammer, 2 or 3 hits and they're out.

Spider wrote:

rich@minispares.com wrote:they are a swine to get out as you cannot get them out with a slide hammer or a punch.

Sure, they are tight, but I've never had trouble with the slide hammer, 2 or 3 hits and they're out.

i find that as the are butted up to the alloy case, there is no space to get the decent slide hammer attachement 'hooked' over the end of the bush

my other slide hammer that is like a rawl bolt sort of thing that grips the walls of the bush tends just to slide out as the material is so soft - plus you end up punching yourselt in the face with the slide hammer (or is that just me!)

much easier to quickly tap them and knock them out!

what ever method used, they are well worth swopping

rich@minispares.com wrote:

Spider wrote:

rich@minispares.com wrote:they are a swine to get out as you cannot get them out with a slide hammer or a punch.

Sure, they are tight, but I've never had trouble with the slide hammer, 2 or 3 hits and they're out.

i find that as the are butted up to the alloy case, there is no space to get the decent slide hammer attachement 'hooked' over the end of the bush

my other slide hammer that is like a rawl bolt sort of thing that grips the walls of the bush tends just to slide out as the material is so soft - plus you end up punching yourselt in the face with the slide hammer (or is that just me!)

much easier to quickly tap them and knock them out!

what ever method used, they are well worth swopping

Ah, OK,,,,

I have a fitting that I can use various sized bolts on it

what ever we all used to working with

rich@minispares.com wrote:yes

they don't all have them, I think it might have been a ado16 part, but I always fit them if I can find them as it takes a little bit of the slack out of the linkage

Cheers, it seems a very tight fit...

rich@minispares.com wrote:they are a swine to get out as you cannot get them out with a slide hammer or a punch.

this is how I do them

drill them and tap them 5/8 unf

then screw either a allen stud in or i use the bango bolt from a oil pipe as the punch sits inside it nice

knock them out

refit the others using a stepped punch in tool (made from an old adjustable tie bar)

the standard replacements you can get shouldnt need sizing to the normal shafts, a lot of the shafts are really worn, so its possible to get undersize bushes that then need line reaming to suit, but i doubt that makes that much difference

I put the new bushings in from mini spares and found they move in the bore
so I had to remove them wipe clean and use epoxy them