Engine recipe..

[rolesyboy]

Go 1275. Swap the engine back when you’re done. Simpler, cheaper and easy changeover.
If not I’ve got a VTEC kit at mine Gary.
You can buy a tin of bronze green and brush paint it if you want the authentic look

[Alex]

1098+ on a 4-synch magic wand 1128 gearbox with a 3.1 diff.
Keeps the look, will cruise at '70' all day long without much effort.

[gs.davies]

1098+ on a 4-synch magic wand 1128 gearbox with a 3.1 diff.
Keeps the look, will cruise at '70' all day long without much effort.

That’s pretty much what I have. It’s developed some issues on the run to IMM and back but where it really did struggle was some of the mountain passes. Whilst I couldn’t do Grand St Bernard as it was closed I did do the climb into Chamonix the other side and it was on its knees, grovelling up the hill, pulling strongly but 30 mph in third tops.

I’ve not ruled out big bore engines for this purpose and as I learn more about what I want from it, so the spec will grow.

[mab01uk]

So, I’m most of the way through what is turning out to be a 2500 mile round trip.

I’ve used a load of oil and whilst the cars gone well, for the sort of things I want to do in it, I need more go. A lot more go.

If I was to build an engine capable of propelling a Mini at modern road speeds for hours on end, what would I need in terms of power, torque and specification? And by modern road speeds, I anticipate seeing some German motorways in the next twelve months.

For a lot more go with 5-speed gearbox at reasonable cost with reliability and modern road speeds for hours on end, plus seeing some German motorways in the next twelve months....sounds like one of the modern engine conversion for Minis with a suitable front subframe such as Allspeed is needed? https://www.allspeedengineering.com/ind ... -11-19-08_

Engine Conversions on TMF:-
https://www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/f ... nversions/

[gs.davies]

So, I’m most of the way through what is turning out to be a 2500 mile round trip.

I’ve used a load of oil and whilst the cars gone well, for the sort of things I want to do in it, I need more go. A lot more go.

If I was to build an engine capable of propelling a Mini at modern road speeds for hours on end, what would I need in terms of power, torque and specification? And by modern road speeds, I anticipate seeing some German motorways in the next twelve months.

For a lot more go with 5-speed gearbox at reasonable cost with reliability and modern road speeds for hours on end, plus seeing some German motorways in the next twelve months....sounds like one of the modern engine conversion for Minis with a suitable front subframe such as Allspeed is needed? https://www.allspeedengineering.com/ind ... -11-19-08_

Engine Conversions on TMF:-
https://www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/f ... nversions/

I’ve only just got over letting go of single leading shoe brakes, and whilst my purist tendencies are strong, this is beyond the pale (but completely true!)

[mab01uk]

I’ve only just got over letting go of single leading shoe brakes, and whilst my purist tendencies are strong, this is beyond the pale (but completely true!)

[timmy201]

My 1100 cruises nicely at 100kph and doesn’t have problems going up hills. I don’t really get a chance to take it much faster as near me there isn’t many 110kph zones. I put in a 3.44 diff and I feel it’d definitely take a 3.1 with no problem

If I was planning on going on long trips more often I’d probably detune it a bit to cope with any fuel quality I come across

I think a pretty standard spec 1275 would be a much nicer option though if the budget allows

[CooperTune]

My solution to current highway speeds in my classic mini. 1275 Cooper S block bored to 1360cc with SW 5 -07 mildly ported 940 MG Metro cyl head surfaced for 9.5 CR. Std 1.3 forged rockers. Cast LCB exhaust manifold with Maniflow down pipes and RC40 kit. Along with the Rover Cooper HIF44 and intake. What makes it all come together is my custom gear box. DAM 5626 with the ultra wide ratio gear set and two O/D drop gears and a 2.76 CWP. It will run 70 mph at 3000 RPM all day long. I have tasted 96 mph at 4000 RPM. I'm currently building the 5th gear box to this spec. I'm out of parts to do additional units. I have found even with roll up windows wind noise above 70 mph is very uncomfortable. With wide ratio gear set there is 1000 rpm step between gears. There is no good reason to shift to 4th gear below 50 mph. Steve (CTR)

[mk1]

Q: What "Ultra Wide Ratio" gear sets are currently available?

Q2: What are "two O/D drop gears"?

[BAD942B]

With wide ratio gear set there is 1000 rpm step between gears.

thats not a big or wide rpm drop between gears, can't remember what the rpm drops on my SCCR 4 synch but at 7k change point it wasn't much

[gs.davies]

What I discovered today was that the gap between third and fourth is too wide. And while I’d like a 2.9 I’m not convinced an 1100 would carry that up long drags at 70 mph plus.

What can be done about narrowing the gap between third and top? S ratio?

[Alex]

Q: What "Ultra Wide Ratio" gear sets are currently available?

Q2: What are "two O/D drop gears"?

Metro HLE / MPi Mini are the wide ratio gearsets.
Metro HLE (and others) had a primary gear with an extra tooth (NOS one in a box on my desk) and the gearbox input gear had one less tooth. The two combined are worth an FD ratio, which is how Steve effectively has a 2.56 fd.

[Alex]

What I discovered today was that the gap between third and fourth is too wide. And while I’d like a 2.9 I’m not convinced an 1100 would carry that up long drags at 70 mph plus.

What can be done about narrowing the gap between third and top? S ratio?

Both of my 1100s will pull a 3.1 with no trouble at all, and the 1186 will spin the wheels in 2nd gear...
A 2.9 would be no problem at all.

[MiNiKiN]

I reckon it is worth to consider what the use case is:

• endless flat Norfolk planes filled with cabbage scents
• countless corners and inclines in the peak district
• the daily commute from NW to SE-London right through the centre

for the latter the 2 the 2.9 FD might be a bit annoying

[CooperTune]

Thanks Alex for filling in the blanks. The gear set like the A+ having a single tiny groove machined into teeth has two tiny grooves. The 30 tooth primary has a single groove and the 29 tooth first motion gear has a single groove in the shoulder between teeth and ball bearing. I also has a NOS primary new in the box and I paid $238. US for it several years ago. To be fair my 1990 Rover Cooper has a 1293 cc with SC/CR, 4.13 CWP, 11 t0 1 CR and a 285 Piper cam, twin HIF 38s. Steve (CTR)