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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2018 10:39 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 18, 2018 11:52 pm
Posts: 18
First order of business was removing this bonnet catch. I must have de-brained myself on this half a dozen times already. Blinking hurts!
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The battery tray was next out. 4 nuts in the inner wing and the tray pulled right out without a fight. Then it was the turn of the clutch slave. For this, I undid the two mounting bolts and ziptied it out of the way.

Next up was the radiator. There is a bracket up top with 4 bolts and a bracket down below that has one bolt holding the radiator on. The hose on the bottom of the radiator was putting up a proper fight. Ended up having to take it off the other end on the water pump and push the pipe down to drain. Didn't spill too much and could wash the little bit I spilt away. I'm mega cautious as I really don't want my little cat drinking any split anti freeze.

One the system drained, the radiator simply pulled out. The bottom hose turned out to have it's pipe clamp rusted siezed. I used a pair of pliers to pull the remaining bits off.
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I gave the radiator a proper good flush out with the hose. These crystallised bits of coolant were floating around up top.
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Coolant was disgusting.
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At this point the engine bay looked like this.
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Now I had to disconnect the driveshafts. I was a bit worried about this as there are two designs. One is a 4 legged rubber thing that has u-clamps around. I think the same that the mini uses. Another design is shafts that go directly into the differential. This looked a far more of a pain to remove.

Luckily for me it was the 4 legged spider thing. Looks like this:
[url="https://www.minispares.com/image.axd?type=product&picture=350/GCD101.jpg"]https://www.minispares.com/image.axd?type=product&picture=350/GCD101.jpg[/url]

The left side just required two u-clamps removing, then it could have the coupling pushed over. Forgot to take a picture of it undone but you can see the nuts to be undone here.
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Drivers side was a bit more of a pain, because for whatever reason the design is slightly different and you can't push the driveshaft back. So you had to remove all 4 u-clamps. To be fair, none of the bolts put up a fight at all.
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Here it is all loose. It doesn't look like it's possible to really replace these without pulling the engine. So I'll have to give them a good inspection and change if necessary.
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One thing these a-series have is a big extension on the gear linkage. Very different to modern cars where they simply bend a few cables around. Haynes and the BMC workshop manual differ on what to do here. Haynes say remove completely, while BMC say leave it hanging. As I am going to be welding in that area, I elected to just remove it entirely.

Undo the gear gaiter. Two screws up top. Gear stick pulls straight out. Then two bolts to release the backend mount.
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Next was 4 bolts on the transmission end to undo. Only one bolt fought and naturally it was the one that was the most difficult to get to. The two spanner trick gave enough leverage to shift it.

The jack stand was so I could undo the bolts without it crashing to the ground and cracking the casting.
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Once this was all undone, the gear change mechanism simply dropped away. Not very heavy piece either.
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I'll need to source and replace the rubber mount here as it's all cracked up and letting dirt in. Will be easy to change once the engine is pulled out. I'm hoping this will just be a standard part that is the same as used on Minis.
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I left my most feared job to nearly last. Removing the exhaust was something that I knew would be siezed and stuck.

First off was to loosen the bracket holding the exhaust to the transmission. I didn't undo it all the way, to save it crashing down.
Rubbish photo, but you can just see the nut behind the sump holding the exhaust.
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Next up was the clamp itself. This had the carb return spring attached to it too. So the first nut held that, which came off fine. I didn't take a chance on the clamping nut and so used my impact driver (basically a weak impact wrench) to loosen it off. Without too much fight it came undone. Clamp pretty much came away at this point.
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Unexpectedly the exhaust was pretty much now free. Just undid the nut on the transmission bracket completely and a single bolt that holds the exhaust on at the tail end and slid the exhaust from under the car.
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Finally I then removed all the other bits like air filter, starter connection, earth, alternator connection and a few pipes. Image

Only things left is to label up the remaining electrical connections, disconnect them, disconnect the fuel lines and remove the bonnet. I've undone the back engine mount bolt, so I can remove that up top with my fingers. Front and gearbox side mounts are easily able to get from up top.

Got a box full of bits, ready to go back on when the welding is done.
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All I need now is an engine crane and the mounting hooks for the top of the engine! I shouldn't need to jack it up to get it out of there. Hopefully a straightforward job...

I have to say, it's an absolute joy to work on this car (so far). Plenty of room around components, very simple, uncomplicated design and logical. The parts are pretty light and easy to move around without straining yourself. Despite the rust on the body, none of the fixings were really that siezed up either.

If anything it went all a bit too easily and quickly. Makes me suspicious that I've got a proper fight in store coming soon. Probably the welding! :D


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2018 11:22 am 
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Joined: Tue Jul 18, 2017 2:48 pm
Posts: 83
Hey Sic in the previous owner of the car. pre vulgar...pre the guy he got it of. I'm so happy you will restore it as I did around 10 years ago. make sure you join ado16.info I am the spares sec. I am more than happy to help with advise and parts if need be.

Regards

Simon


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2018 8:34 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 18, 2018 11:52 pm
Posts: 18
pugzadams wrote:
Hey Sic in the previous owner of the car. pre vulgar...pre the guy he got it of. I'm so happy you will restore it as I did around 10 years ago. make sure you join ado16.info I am the spares sec. I am more than happy to help with advise and parts if need be.

Regards

Simon


Hi Simon!

I joined ado16.info the other month. The reference material there has been very handy! I also have joined the forum too but my account has not been validated.

Definitely interested in parts. Mostly body panels right now. Main ones are the drivers floor and if there is a inner membrane available.

Cheers,
Si.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2018 8:41 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 18, 2018 11:52 pm
Posts: 18
Some progress has happened since last time.

Pulled the engine with a couple of mates. Note the safety footwear...
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A few mistakes we made here. First was jacking it up and leaving it on stands. This made it very difficult to manoeuvre out. Likewise I wish I removed the alternator and starter motor. They were just in the way. Finally we put the mounting hooks on the rocker cover but this started to bend the studs. So we quickly put the engine back down and moved to the cylinder head bolts on the side.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2018 8:57 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 18, 2018 11:52 pm
Posts: 18
I've labelled all the loom connections. Also removed it entirely from the car.
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As it's quite simple, my intention is to remake the loom entirely. The dash end is a right mess now with choco block type screw connectors (*shudders*) and some of the connectors are dirty and falling off elsewhere on the loom. Plus there is damage to some parts too. This is the connector to the column stalk.
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Stripped the interior ready for welding. Less things to catch fire then. These gives you some idea of what needs doing in the cabin/floor area.
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Speaking of which, there are no real horrors in the engine bay.
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Apart from maybe the nearside wing will need some work.
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Removed the fuel tank one evening. Doddle to get out and like the rest of the car, the fixings came out without a fight.
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Tank itself seems in excellent condition. Especially on top. Bottom had rust but as there was petrol in it before and it's not leaked, it mustn't have gone through. The brown on here is just dirt from years of crap getting on top.
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I'm really happy that it's in good condition. One less thing and expense to sort. I'll give it a clean down and a good paint.

Offside rear subframe, front mount is going to need welding work on it.
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Looking up into that hole.
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Mount itself.
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Looking down the body, apart from the sills and edges, it's in very good condition.
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Boot floor.
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2018 8:58 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 18, 2018 11:52 pm
Posts: 18
Oh and I nearly forgot this. Before pulling the engine I gave it a start. Sounds really lovely and willing little unit.
https://youtu.be/IToOs0Og8_c

All the big jobs are now done, before welding.
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Last edited by SiC on Sun Jul 15, 2018 9:26 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2018 9:12 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 18, 2018 11:52 pm
Posts: 18
Here is one for the ado16 experts. This is the rear subframe, rear mount.

Nearside:
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Offside:
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Brackets seem very different, especially in height. Is this right? The offside does look like it's original and the nearside looks a later addition. The nearside welds (almost looks tacked on) also came away when I pulled it with my fingers. So will definitely need some work back there. Also the bolts are loose on it too.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 16, 2018 5:01 pm 
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Joined: Thu Aug 08, 2013 3:16 pm
Posts: 6958
feck that's ripe!

there was a nos pattern heel board on ebay last week

_________________
should you wish, you can contact me on rich@minispares.com

'long beard boss'


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 16, 2018 8:30 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 18, 2018 11:52 pm
Posts: 18
rich@minispares.com wrote:
feck that's ripe!

there was a nos pattern heel board on ebay last week


I don't suppose you have a link to hand? :)
My searches don't seem to return it.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 16, 2018 9:01 pm 
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Joined: Thu Aug 08, 2013 3:16 pm
Posts: 6958
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre ... 1568115367


It's genuine as well!

_________________
should you wish, you can contact me on rich@minispares.com

'long beard boss'


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