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PostPosted: Sat Nov 03, 2018 7:11 pm 
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A recent ad in the Sales and Wanted section by regular contributor JohnV prompted me...... There's a regular call for the rather flimsy, sintered/compressed alloy badges from the mini range, ranging from the small Morris S across the spectrum, to the 850/1275 figures right up to the MORRIS COOPER. Even in the 80's the 1275's were NLA so I made a couple from identical thickness brass, painstakingly copied and cut with needle files. Then chromed locally

I wonder if anyone's considered making these now....., not from chromed alloy but from water-jet cut brass plate. Laser scanning an original to form a cutting programme of whatever badge(or badges) is simplicity itself and the computer controlled cutters will slice through multiples like a knife through butter. It REALLY is as simple as that. You've got to chrome the alloy crap anyway and chroming brass is much of a muchness I'd say. Locating pins, same again, machine locate, drill and soft solder in place.

They'll be identical and probably out last the car. More expensive, yes but not necessarily much more. Anyone out there in the laser cutting industry care to comment


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 04, 2018 12:29 am 
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Hi Peter, is it possible to chrome over a 'soft' solder?

I thought the tin in 'soft' solders (both leaded and unleaded) caused issues with the plating process.

I recall reading somewhere that the plating was much easier/better if a 'hard' solder (copper/zinc or copper/silver) was used.

Blown if I can find the link now....

Either way the Mk1 scripts for the boot would be easy to reproduce as suggested.

The bonnet badges, not so. :D :D :D


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 04, 2018 11:48 am 
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No, it won't chrome over the soft solder Smithy but there will only be a small ring of visible solder - and that's at the rear of the badge. I made my 1275's like this in '86 and they're still going strong. Also did a couple of the Mk1 'S'. Don't think that I'd attempt AUSTIN and COOPER. Or MORRIS COOPER.....!


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 04, 2018 12:09 pm 
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Would they be appreciably better than the repros though? I don’t think that there’s too much difference between the 1000 and 1275 badges, possibly the ‘s’, whereas the more complicated ones are fairly easy spot seem to immediately give the car the ‘new repro’ look

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 04, 2018 1:02 pm 
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I would say with near certainty that chrome on brass repro badges would most certainly be appreciably better than chromed compressed alloy powder. They'd also be exactly to size and each reproduced set wouldn't be slowly reducing in size as we've seen with the alloy repros. The brass would remain intact instead of breaking down and 'popping' (as it's called) as do the alloy repops. As a result, the chrome would always be better by default. I see the point about the little figure badges and small S but the same applies to there too.

It's just a thought after having seen the extremely intricate workings on all types of steels, alloys and plastics that these water jet cutters can do. No distortion, exactly as the programme dictates.........


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 04, 2018 5:43 pm 
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Amazing coincidence.... i’m currently looking at printing a number of parts... will let all know how this goes...

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 04, 2018 6:24 pm 
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Rather than soft solder, I'd suggest a silver solder.

To get a high quality Chrome job over the badge, it would be best to have them copper plated first, the copper would likely be done in several layers, being polished in between these to fill any blemishes and it would also plate the silver (or soft) solder, allowing that to also be chrome plated.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 04, 2018 6:56 pm 
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I just thought soft solder for cheapness and speed Chris. What about distortion using hard/silver solder? Mind you, distortion wouldn't be a problem either as you can easily twist brass back to shape!!!!! Which is more than you can say about the sintered crap!


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2018 5:59 pm 
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Although it is a good idea, I reckon it would be very, very difficult to get the laser / waterjet badges to look close enough to the originals to pass muster.

I have been through the process & have made / had made very high quality MINI-SPRINT badges that many members have seen. So I do know what I'm on about.

Although getting the size of the badge would be easy & MUCH better than crappy copied originals, getting the radius of the letters & "look" right would be very difficult indeed.

I reckon it could be worth looking into, but it is originals that will always command a premium.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2018 6:12 pm 
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I'm pretty confident I could print them though...

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