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 Post subject: Re: Dunlop D1's
PostPosted: Sat Dec 09, 2017 12:26 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 12, 2011 9:13 pm
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Location: North East
Peter Laidler wrote:
Same meat, different gravy but has anyone made/machined a new set of wheel centres for these wheels?


The centres on mine were machined from alloy using and original as a pattern. I had a thread cut into the rear so the even mount as per the originals. The D emblems were found on Ebay (Classic Capsule if I remember correctly, or itsadingdong)


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 Post subject: Re: Dunlop D1's
PostPosted: Sat Dec 09, 2017 12:41 pm 
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Peter Laidler wrote:
Yep....., got that, seen it, got the T shirt and tried it........ But to machine off the tail, you've got to hold the tapered front outer edge in the chuck. And the 3/8" deep jaws are shallower than the 1/2" tapered surface. Result, it won't hold. You could cut the 'tail' off with a saw. The tail has to be quite substantial to support the machining of the front face though. Might try that next but it's a LOT of stainless or alloy to waste and a lot of time on a manual lathe


I would hold the tail in the chuck and part it off, letting the machined cap drop. You would never need to hold the taper in the chuck at all.

The bar has to be the diameter of the cap plus a machining allowance and as it does not matter if the of the rear centre is perfectly in the centre of the outer turned surface, getting it trued up is not necessary.

If you really are that worried about the material, you can bolt a machining fixture to the thread you created in the back to hold it into the wheel and use that for all the caps.


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 Post subject: Re: Dunlop D1's
PostPosted: Sat Dec 09, 2017 1:44 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jul 15, 2017 5:35 pm
Posts: 1698
Location: Abingdon Oxfordshire
Yep, Smithy's got it. That's what I'll try this afternoon....... Thanks all. Incidentally, the thread into the rear is 2BA but you could use anything really. But it's insufficient to hold the wheel centre while turning it. Great ideas.............. MinE Bitz has perfect stick-in centres


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