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PostPosted: Thu Sep 07, 2017 1:05 pm 
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Joined: Thu Feb 17, 2011 10:38 pm
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Location: Taunton Somerset UK Formerly Kingswinford
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wp5eb3bc3c_05_06.jpg
rolesyboy wrote:
Thanks folks. I can vouch for the 2 engine stands and a scaffold pole working a treat as another forum member uses exactly that (and he has the best trolley I have ever seen! )
I am really looking for something that is wheeled, low enough to get under a Mini and bring it to a working height of approx 600mm which will allow me to refit a bare shell. Wishful thinking???
Cheers

Like this?

Not mine but saw it somewhere on the net


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 07, 2017 2:33 pm 
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Location: North East
Here's how the works removed the rear subframe

Attachment:
447 bbl.jpg



Taken from


https://revslib.stanford.edu/?omit_keys ... age&q=mini


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 07, 2017 3:05 pm 
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Location: Oop North where it's dark & cold nearly all the time.
I hesitate to mention this, but round these parts "trolleys" is slang for underpants :lol:

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 07, 2017 5:13 pm 
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Location: Taunton Somerset UK Formerly Kingswinford
mk1 wrote:
I hesitate to mention this, but round these parts "trolleys" is slang for underpants :lol:


I feel that if we all used the 'works' method, sales of underpants would increase :D :D :D

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 07, 2017 7:41 pm 
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Location: Colchester, Essex
mk1 wrote:
I hesitate to mention this, but round these parts "trolleys" is slang for underpants :lol:

Yeh thanks Mark. WTF are all these people putting pictures of lifts and 4 wheeled carts for??? Lol

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 11, 2017 9:58 am 
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I have made a 3 wheel trolley to move my shell.. use old industrial pallet racking the wider section"horizontal support rails" .. to make a crucifix shape ..take one racking rail cut to length & suit the width of rear subframe .. weld on 2 x upright angle sections about 7 inches high ( or however high you want the shell to travel) then drill this angle & bolt into the subframe sill holes.. then make a T section with another racking member to run forward under the floor cut to length in the area of the shell subframe cross member and then either weld in a central position onto the rear cross member .. i made up a bolt together T section idea (because the finished trolley when not in use needs to be stored).. at the front end now make a "single" vertical upright that bolts onto the end of the racking rail that now runs under the car floor.. make this a removable upright to have a weld on top section to form a "T" Shape that T is the width of the top of the front subframe .. drill each end where the suspension compression hole is located and using some threaded studding bolt the front support into position under the shell .. buy 3 x swivel wheel casters .. (wheels as big as you can get then the shell with trolley can travel over gravel) from screwfix or similar supplier and then make the mounting plates that weld to the underside of the frame .. bolt on your casters and job is done .. i can leave my trolley still bolted in place on the shell even when the shell turning frame is still in position.

I have used this trolley on several shells and sorry i cant take a photo of this trolley until my 1275GT comes back from the paintshop. Be warned that Paintshops love the trolley because they can push my shell around to the back of the shop and forget about getting my shell finished painted?


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 11, 2017 10:15 am 
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I'm the king of trolleys and one thing that people always get wrong is the size of the castors

small, cheap castors look as if they will do the job, but are a massive pain unless you are moving the trolley on super smooth concrete, it only takes a slight bump and they will fold under and not 'castor' anymore

its much better to pay a bit more and have decent quality larger castors that can cope with a bit of rough stuff.

pump up castors are a waste of time as I have found that the tyres go flat on them and they are bastards to try and pump up, particularly if the shell is on the trolley as the tyres will unseat off the rims.

my 'best' trolley is my 'rough terrain' that uses normal mini wheels, this can be dragged across any surface and fits my trailer no problems

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 11, 2017 11:26 am 
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Location: Colchester, Essex
Polarsilver wrote:
I have made a 3 wheel trolley to move my shell.. use old industrial pallet racking the wider section"horizontal support rails" .. to make a crucifix shape ..take one racking rail cut to length & suit the width of rear subframe .. weld on 2 x upright angle sections about 7 inches high ( or however high you want the shell to travel) then drill this angle & bolt into the subframe sill holes.. then make a T section with another racking member to run forward under the floor cut to length in the area of the shell subframe cross member and then either weld in a central position onto the rear cross member .. i made up a bolt together T section idea (because the finished trolley when not in use needs to be stored).. at the front end now make a "single" vertical upright that bolts onto the end of the racking rail that now runs under the car floor.. make this a removable upright to have a weld on top section to form a "T" Shape that T is the width of the top of the front subframe .. drill each end where the suspension compression hole is located and using some threaded studding bolt the front support into position under the shell .. buy 3 x swivel wheel casters .. (wheels as big as you can get then the shell with trolley can travel over gravel) from screwfix or similar supplier and then make the mounting plates that weld to the underside of the frame .. bolt on your casters and job is done .. i can leave my trolley still bolted in place on the shell even when the shell turning frame is still in position.

I have used this trolley on several shells and sorry i cant take a photo of this trolley until my 1275GT comes back from the paintshop. Be warned that Paintshops love the trolley because they can push my shell around to the back of the shop and forget about getting my shell finished painted?

That sounds spot on. Thanks a lot. Any chance of a sketch before the shell comes back from the paintshop. From every bittersweet experience i have with paint shops this rarely takes anything less than 4 years LOL.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 11, 2017 2:31 pm 
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Shock news today, i went to visit the paintshop and my shell is now painted Red and the bits are in the paint booth also in red.. they say all will be finished painting by end of this week..so with the shell back very soon i will then post the trolly info.

Just a thought on the casters .. my advice is use some with a built in brake ..which is a small lever that locks on the wheel .. because on a small incline the shell will just run away & that makes you panic!


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 11, 2017 3:19 pm 
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Location: Colchester, Essex
Polarsilver wrote:
Shock news today, i went to visit the paintshop and my shell is now painted Red and the bits are in the paint booth also in red.. they say all will be finished painting by end of this week..so with the shell back very soon i will then post the trolly info.

Just a thought on the casters .. my advice is use some with a built in brake ..which is a small lever that locks on the wheel .. because on a small incline the shell will just run away & that makes you panic!


Shocker- painted!! I am always taken aback when I hear that from a paint shop.
Might get my pics sooner than anticipated haha.
Nice one

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