mk1-forum.net

A friendly international forum for people interested in the tuning & modification of classic BMC vehicles
It is currently Mon Aug 19, 2019 10:39 am

All times are UTC [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 174 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1 ... 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18  Next
Author Message
PostPosted: Mon Apr 29, 2019 8:31 pm 
Offline

Joined: Thu Jun 24, 2010 11:19 pm
Posts: 1074
Nick thanks , it's been bugging me all day and you've confirmed exactly my thoughts . When I have my rosepetals balanced the weight is stuck in the inside of the outer rim . I will go and have them re balanced . Here's a pic of the issue ... ken


You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

_________________
Mk1 Austin Cooper s 1275 S . 1966
Mk2 Austin Cooper 998 janspeed conversion 1968
Mk1 Morris super 850 1962

Porsche 997 turboS
Ford transit swb flat roof 280s


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2019 1:50 pm 
Offline

Joined: Wed Nov 27, 2013 1:58 pm
Posts: 122
Location: Mid Sussex
Nick W wrote:
Hi Ken
Our balancer has a setting for alloy wheels where the weight position is calculated so they can be stuck on the inside of the wheel .
Cant see why it couldnt be done on a steel wheel.

Nick

Something to look out for is the stuck on weights on the inside clipping the caliper, had this with my D1s with 7" discs, at least one of the wheels would not fit on the front for this reason. I was quite surprised the clearance was so minimal, less likely to be an issue with steel rims though.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2019 2:47 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon May 11, 2015 4:16 pm
Posts: 484
Location: Scotland
A small issue with 145/10 Blockley tyres on standard 3.5 /10 inch wheels. I have fitted these to my 1960 Mini-Minor. I also fitted classic Koni dampers. The combination doesn’t work. With standard rear brake drums the shrouds on the dampers foul the tyre. Later cars were fitted with slightly spaced drums when radial tyres were introduced. These drums appear to be NLA.

Messing about with washers behind the wheel suggests that 3/8 inch spacers will solve the problem. Much as I hate spacers, there seems to be no other answer.

This is probably not an issue with any car fitted with S type running gear but thought it might be a consideration for anyone considering Blockleys.

D


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2019 4:31 pm 
Offline
Site Admin

Joined: Thu Jun 24, 2010 11:30 am
Posts: 13023
You can still get real lead balance weights on ebay, they are not cheap, but well worth it as far as I am concerned.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw ... e&_sacat=0

_________________
Mark F
Forum founder, backer & only admin for nearly 20 years.
I Must be f*&%^g mad


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2019 7:02 pm 
Offline

Joined: Thu Dec 09, 2010 10:03 pm
Posts: 1135
I don’t think it’s a good idea to balance wheels when tyres are new. When racing we always balanced the wheels after a few laps as the tyres grow and change shape. Swift I would put some mileage on them first before you rebalance.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2019 9:56 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Thu Feb 05, 2015 9:40 am
Posts: 1320
Dearg1275 wrote:
A small issue with 145/10 Blockley tyres on standard 3.5 /10 inch wheels. I have fitted these to my 1960 Mini-Minor. I also fitted classic Koni dampers. The combination doesn’t work. With standard rear brake drums the shrouds on the dampers foul the tyre. Later cars were fitted with slightly spaced drums when radial tyres were introduced. These drums appear to be NLA.

Messing about with washers behind the wheel suggests that 3/8 inch spacers will solve the problem. Much as I hate spacers, there seems to be no other answer.

This is probably not an issue with any car fitted with S type running gear but thought it might be a consideration for anyone considering Blockleys.

D

I think Metro rear drums have about that much on them. Might be easier than the Cooper drums to find.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2019 10:10 pm 
Offline

Joined: Sat Dec 27, 2014 2:41 pm
Posts: 1000
I had a car with 1/8 spacers fitted to allow radials to fit ok, it was a proper plate with csk holes for the drum retaining screws,


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu May 02, 2019 10:40 am 
Offline

Joined: Thu Jun 24, 2010 1:30 pm
Posts: 282
Interesting points about the clearance issues on certain shocks. But if the tyres are good, then spacing is worth it.

With the balancing issue, If you can find a fitter prepared to experiment a little, I would certainly take the worst one, remove the tyre and check the rim on its own. You could even do this on a static balancer. I wouldn't go blaming the tyre for the source of unbalance until I checked this. Nevsmini is also correct that tyres shift after being run for a short while, and it is best practice to drive and let the tyres settle before balancing.

Automated wheel / tyre lines used to fit the tyre to the rim and inflate it. Then the tyre is deflated and rotated 180 degrees on the rim. A second measuring run is carried out. The tyre is deflated again and moved so that the point of maximum unbalance on the rim is opposite that of the tyre, and if necessary weights added to bring into tolerance. Your new car never ran as smoothly once you put a second set of tyres on.

Now many modern tyres have marks to indicate the position of the valve, so I don't think the above is carried out any more? If so, a huge saving in time and expense for the car manufacturer.

Car tyre moulds and moulding techniques have come on a long way, and they are much better in consistency. You used to be able to actually feel the difference in thickness with your hands they were that bad.

I do have a friend who has run many cars on the track using wheels from 14" down to 10". He is fast and knows what he is doing. He has never balanced a tyre.

Looking at your wheels Swifty, are inside and outside weights at roughly the same angle? It they are, then the example you gave would indicate about 60 grams of static unbalance and 30 grams of couple (side to side). That's quite a lot. You have two issues. differences in density of material or thickness (less likely) and run out. Look for run out and take it from there. Bare in mind wheel runs off stud locations, but is balanced from centre hole. Are they concentric? Is rim / rim bed concentric with centre hole / studs? Does rim run out side to side when mounted on hub? Is this run out the same when mounted on the balancer hub? Also be very careful of paint under the securing nuts. Have known wheels to repeatedly come loose when this was too thick.

Enjoy your can of worms.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu May 02, 2019 12:15 pm 
Offline

Joined: Thu Jun 24, 2010 11:19 pm
Posts: 1074
All points taken on board thanks .... ken

_________________
Mk1 Austin Cooper s 1275 S . 1966
Mk2 Austin Cooper 998 janspeed conversion 1968
Mk1 Morris super 850 1962

Porsche 997 turboS
Ford transit swb flat roof 280s


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2019 3:34 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Sat Mar 07, 2015 8:40 pm
Posts: 400
Hi,

Any more road reports?

_________________
Cheers

Kevin


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 174 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1 ... 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18  Next

All times are UTC [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: burchy35, GeorgeA, spraybeateer and 16 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group
Localized by Maël Soucaze © 2010 phpBB.fr