997 Cooper Gear lever is sizzling/vibrating

[1071 S]

I usually ignore these posts these days because I've posted the solution before an no one has ever come back with a positive reaction .... so I guess it just works for me.

I once complained of this condition to an Old and Bold ex BMC apprentice and he showed me a simple solution (after I'd gone down all the (expensive) new components./rebuild routes to no avail). A Morris Minor front trunnion bush (at least that's what he called what he sold me) shoved ridged edge upwards on the bottom of the gear lever. Re-install lever and relax in peace...

When I installed a QuikShift I found the trunnion bush doesn't work; its too short... you need a custom length of heater hose instead. This a slightly more complex operation as you have to determine the correct length of hose. Too short = vibration and too long = interferes with the actual shift... It needs to be juuuust right.

Its probably not acceptable to the originally crowd ... but no one will ever know if you don't take the shift boot off

Cheers, Ian

[Charlynsane]

ahah you're right..

my father asked me to change the water pump on his 67 Moke

something went wrong in our head! Lockdown syndrome? we started a full restoration

[Polarsilver]

All good advice is given.. also worth a check of the Rubber Mounting that supports the remote extension casting .. i seem to find that rear Mounting on my cars have started to semi split the Mounting Rubber bonding away from its two bolt mounting steel base & therefore not doing its job .. this was a known issue from back in the day.

[Kiwi Craig]

1071 S, I dont suppose you have a part number for the Morris Minor trunnion bush?

[Maddog]

1071Bob - great idea the track rod end boot - is it a standard Minis sized one, or from something else? I want to try this in my historic racer Mini!
Cheers

[1071 S]

Sorry Craig, I can show you a picture. I just fitted the bit Bill gave me about 35 years ago...

Cheers, Ian

[1071bob]

- is it a standard Minis sized one, or from something else? I want to try this in my historic racer Mini!
Cheers
[/quote]

It's not a new modification, I've seen it done with knuckle pin rubber boots. The early gearsticks had a larger ball on the end which was a metal to metal contact with lower socket. You need to damp the movement between the two parts. I used the mini trackrod end boot because it had two grooves which enabled me to tywrap it tight to the 'stick and socket. Some heavy grease inside would help to.
I did try a heavier gauge spring under the plastic cup but that gave me to much load on the lever across the neutral gate.

[IslandBlue]

I usually ignore these posts these days because I've posted the solution before an no one has ever come back with a positive reaction .... so I guess it just works for me.

I once complained of this condition to an Old and Bold ex BMC apprentice and he showed me a simple solution (after I'd gone down all the (expensive) new components./rebuild routes to no avail). A Morris Minor front trunnion bush (at least that's what he called what he sold me) shoved ridged edge upwards on the bottom of the gear lever. Re-install lever and relax in peace...

When I installed a QuikShift I found the trunnion bush doesn't work; its too short... you need a custom length of heater hose instead. This a slightly more complex operation as you have to determine the correct length of hose. Too short = vibration and too long = interferes with the actual shift... It needs to be juuuust right.

Its probably not acceptable to the originally crowd ... but no one will ever know if you don't take the shift boot off

Cheers, Ian

I had this problem a few years back on my Mk2, I ordered a MM trunnion bush but it didn't seem to fit, maybe it was the wrong bush? Seem to recall it looked pretty similar to the bushes that go in the engine steady bar. I'd tried replacing the spring and plunger before without success and also cleaned and greased the rods in the remote housing.

Anyway in the end I used some heater hose although I can't recall what length or exactly how. This worked for 3-4,000 miles but it's starting to rattle again now.

I like the sound of the track rod end rubber fix. Sounds like a lockdown kind of job!

[1071 S]

IMG_2625.jpeg

I don't know if this will work... I can see it in "Preview".. but

In case, here's one I prepared earlier...

Cheers, Ian

[IslandBlue]

Yes that worked thanks.

Will have to see if I've still got that bush! Looks like I remembered it but longer than an engine steady bush.

[1071 S]

If you're interested I could go and dig it out and measure the bush?

That one lasted 8 or 10 years and was only swapped out when I acquired a Quikshift..

The bit of hose on the Qshift has been there since the late 90s.

Cheers, Ian

[IslandBlue]

If you're interested I could go and dig it out and measure the bush?

That one lasted 8 or 10 years and was only swapped out when I acquired a Quikshift..

The bit of hose on the Qshift has been there since the late 90s.

Cheers, Ian

Thanks, yes when you have a moment, would give an idea for the right length of hose as well. Is there space to secure the bush with a tie wrap or two if you slit the bush to fit it? I think forcing the bush over the ball end was an issue.
Cheers
Stewart

[Bodge]

It's not a new modification, I've seen it done with knuckle pin rubber boots. The early gearsticks had a larger ball on the end which was a metal to metal contact with lower socket. You need to damp the movement between the two parts. I used the mini trackrod end boot because it had two grooves which enabled me to tywrap it tight to the 'stick and socket. Some heavy grease inside would help to.

My early 998 Cooper suffered from this annoying gear stick buzz too. I think someone on this forum sent me through this cutting from an old MCR magazine that also suggests the remedy of the knuckle joint rubber boot. I made the modification and it's been fine ever since. Cheers Roger

Cooper Gearstick Modification.jpg

[1071 S]

If you're interested I could go and dig it out and measure the bush?

That one lasted 8 or 10 years and was only swapped out when I acquired a Quikshift..

The bit of hose on the Qshift has been there since the late 90s.

Cheers, Ian

Thanks, yes when you have a moment, would give an idea for the right length of hose as well. Is there space to secure the bush with a tie wrap or two if you slit the bush to fit it? I think forcing the bush over the ball end was an issue.
Cheers
Stewart

Hi Stewart,

Measured with my trusty Chinese vernier, I get an overall length of 0.93", o'all dia 0.915", lip depth 0.175" and lip diameter 1.075".

Noting when and where I bought it, I would pretty much guarantee its a genuine BMC item. Although, I couldn't guarantee its identity other than what I was told... I think the groove towards the bottom edge is wear. It has been on the shift lever for around 35 years.

I'm sure there's room for ties but I would have just used rubber grease, blunt force and ignorance.... Maybe the rubber was a bit more flexible back then...

As a, by the way, does anyone know if the original cast alloy lever retaining cap can found?

Cheers, Ian

[Charlynsane]

Many thanks for all your response

I'm working on the Moke but the next job is the 997!! engine out for a very light overhaul, clutch and seals,

I didn't find leakage as well but I drove 30 miles last week end and lost 2 liters of oil... even the clutch seal is a little bit leaking, I will have to take a look closer

[timmy201]

There’s some great ideas here, I’m going to try that trunnion bush as that should be a better option than adding weight to the shifter

And now I’ve seen the previous post I’ve realised that mine has the larger ball on the end and no plastic bush and that would definitely not help the cause.

On a slightly related topic, I don’t have the gaiter 22A419 on my magic wand gearbox. Would that help quieten it down and does anyone have a picture of one fitted?

[dgear1984]

First, nice 997....looks great.

The noise....there are a few things that can be done to help get rid of the annoying rattle.
You could do two of the three fixes...

The rattle is caused by vibration...this is transmitted down the remote housing and up through the gear lever.
The vibration is exaggerated by loose components (worn)

Attaching a couple of pictures showing what can be done to get rid of the vibration.

1. Most owners overlook the diff housing when rebuilding the unit....the two bronze bushings (# 3) end up with an oval wear pattern....these should be replaced on any rebuild...Unfortunately, you won't be able to replace these now.

The following can be done without removing the engine...just remove the remote housing.

2. The rubber washers on the bell crank shaft....these are quite important,.....they act like a damper......and the shaft should also be changed...
this is high wear area.

3. This is a mod we have always done...even on the later MK1 with the rubber damper gear lever.
We drill and tap the remote housing (at the arrow)
Then we add the same anti vibration bits (# 17, 18, 19 and 20)….Circled in orange....these parts are readily available from suppliers like Somerford.

Worth a try.

Great information.

I’ve just changed the two bronze bushes you mention (part #3) with the gearbox in the car. It is possible