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PostPosted: Sun Dec 03, 2017 4:09 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 03, 2017 7:26 pm
Posts: 163
After a bit of advice, if you folks don't mind.

I think I'm going to have to fit a new clutch master cylinder to the 1100 as even though it's been rebuilt, it's still not right. So on the assumption it's bust I've been looking at replacements and cost differences. I don't want to buy rubbish and have to fit twice but I also don't want to pay over the odds just because something looks original. Functionality and cost is more important to me than originality with this particular car.

Therefore, I have a choice between the original style all-metal master which is £100-110 (inc. postage) or a more modern version with a plastic fluid reservoir at £55-65 (inc. postage). My wallet wants me to go for the modern one but my memory is wary of modern parts being a false economy and not lasting very long.

What would you recommend?


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 03, 2017 4:33 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2011 8:59 pm
Posts: 676
Location: Aberdeen Scotland
There isn't much to go wrong with a master cylinder if you've rebuilt it with new seals and assuming the bore was ok. What symptoms are you getting ?


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 03, 2017 7:50 pm 
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Joined: Thu Aug 08, 2013 3:16 pm
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there is no difference between the guts and the cylinder of a tin or plastic lockhead master, its only the tin canister body part that makes it expensive more expensive to make that the cheaper plastic one.

there are some cheap plastic ones floating around that are not lockhead / ap capareo - but ive never used them

you can buy a mini one and just use the operating rod from the 1100 (as it is longer) - this is what I did on my green car

_________________
should you wish, you can contact me on rich@minispares.com

'long beard boss'


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 03, 2017 11:49 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 03, 2017 7:26 pm
Posts: 163
The system is sucking air in from somewhere but not leaking fluid out, which is weird. We've rebuilt the original MC with new seals and fitted a brand new slave cylinder, the only item that hasn't been replaced is the flexible clutch hose (next on the list).

When you bleed the system you can get the arm to start to operate but after a few moments or the next press of the pedal, air is getting sucked in from somewhere and you have to start again. I'm using the MG B method of bleeding with one person operating the bleed nipple and the clutch arm, and the other person furiously pumping and then holding the pedal. It works really well, until it sucks air in.

At first we did think there was air trapped in the system but after spending enough time bleeding it that my legs stopped working properly it was determined that wasn't the case.

Suspicion is porous pipe or a duff new seal in the MC. Easy solution is to just replace the old MC and hose with brand new. First time I've come across a clutch this difficult to sort out.

Good info to know on the plastic and Mini MCs, that gives me more options.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 09, 2017 10:30 am 
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Joined: Thu Jun 24, 2010 5:28 pm
Posts: 376
Location: London UK
I find that flex hoses either block or go porous with age.

I'd guess yours has done the latter.


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